Preparing for a flat when (not if) it happens

[Lloyd]

Yes you can use the trailer aid. There is a chance it might not get the other tire high enough to clear the ground, but a bottle jack will finish raising it if necessary. It (the jack) won't/shouldn't put to much stress on the axle either.

Check and see if the suspension has grease zerks. If not maybe the bolts and bushing are getting worn out. If that should be the case, you might want to consider putting the wet bolt kit.

[mmorris]

Lloyd, please fill me in on how to check to see if these are getting worn; beveled holes I understand, but how else? Without looking, I don't think they have grease zerks.

[Lloyd]

http://www.crossroadsowners.com/foru...t-kit-776.html

http://www.crossroadsowners.com/foru...-kit-4702.html

http://www.crossroadsowners.com/foru...ance-1105.html

Here is some reading for you. I would guess, if you don't have any grease zerks on that suspension, you probably have the original bushings in there. They're "plastic/nylon". Most everybody that has changed them out said they were worn out. Some said the bolt was worn also.
I would think if you could get one axle up so the tire clears, you might be able to try and move it by wedging a bar in the suspension someplace and seeing if you can find any slack in the bolts that way. Or, just take one of the bolts out for inspection.
My recommendation if it's not greasable, it would be better to put in the wet bolt kit and be done with it.

[Kingfish58]

[QUOTE=2slick;117355]To each his own.....I've had one bearing failure in my life."

I'd be a lot more confident if these trailers were built to modern automotive standards.
The other problem I have is the lack of excess engineering in these light trailers.

The engineering in these axle, hub, bearing, brake assemblies date back to what-the 1920's??

[2slick]

[QUOTE=Kingfish58;120068]

Originally Posted by 2slick

To each his own.....I've had one bearing failure in my life."



I'd be a lot more confident if these trailers were built to modern automotive standards.

The other problem I have is the lack of excess engineering in these light trailers.



The engineering in these axle, hub, bearing, brake assemblies date back to what-the 1920's??

Specifically, what would you change? Tapered roller bearings are used in many, many applications. My neighbors Hitchhiker has the "Neverlube" Dexter hub assemblies...I've heard they'll fail too. That leaves the hubs and brake assembly. Disc brakes? They're available. IIRC, Lippert makes torsion type independent assemblies. I've got tandem torsion axles on my boat trailer. Personally, I prefer springs. They don't last long on the coast though.


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[travelin texans]

[QUOTE=Kingfish58;120068]

Originally Posted by 2slick

To each his own.....I've had one bearing failure in my life."

I'd be a lot more confident if these trailers were built to modern automotive standards.
The other problem I have is the lack of excess engineering in these light trailers.

The engineering in these axle, hub, bearing, brake assemblies date back to what-the 1920's??

I guess you mean sealed bearings so instead of packing bearings just replace the entire hub assembly like automobiles. I just upgraded to disc brakes & they are automotive hubs & GM brake pads. I'd have to pass on the "NeverLube" bearings & the "NeverFail" bushings cause from my experience "never" is not forever, they do/will fail eventually.

[mmorris]

Originally Posted by Lloyd

http://www.crossroadsowners.com/foru...t-kit-776.html

http://www.crossroadsowners.com/foru...-kit-4702.html

http://www.crossroadsowners.com/foru...ance-1105.html

Here is some reading for you. I would guess, if you don't have any grease zerks on that suspension, you probably have the original bushings in there. They're "plastic/nylon". Most everybody that has changed them out said they were worn out. Some said the bolt was worn also.
I would think if you could get one axle up so the tire clears, you might be able to try and move it by wedging a bar in the suspension someplace and seeing if you can find any slack in the bolts that way. Or, just take one of the bolts out for inspection.
My recommendation if it's not greasable, it would be better to put in the wet bolt kit and be done with it.

I'll plan on upgrading to wet bolts this winter. Thanks again for the info!

[gregtx]

This response is a little late to the party. When i was young, never would have thought of having someone change a tire for me, but now i have roadside asst. Now that i'm old and fat, i have no intention of getting under the trailer on the side of the road. (would and could if i had to) Very important, see what brand of tires u have. mine had an american name, but where made in china and found they where famous for blowouts and coming apart with low miles. I had my tread come off between el paso and van horn with less than 5k miles. Put 8 ply carlisle rv tires on, soon as i got home.

[stormseeker]

Originally Posted by gregtx

This response is a little late to the party. When i was young, never would have thought of having someone change a tire for me, but now i have roadside asst. Now that i'm old and fat, i have no intention of getting under the trailer on the side of the road. (would and could if i had to) Very important, see what brand of tires u have. mine had an american name, but where made in china and found they where famous for blowouts and coming apart with low miles. I had my tread come off between el paso and van horn with less than 5k miles. Put 8 ply carlisle rv tires on, soon as i got home.

Chinese tires aren't necessarily bad but the oem ones that come with the unit are almost always marginal as far as weight/speed ratings. (Don't ask me how I know.) Personally I won't pull off the seller's lot any more without tires with AT LEAST the next higher weight rating than what came on it. I also switched to LT tires 12,000 miles ago, as I believe they have a higher safety margin than comparable ST tires. I am very satisfied with them but will call roadside assistance if there's a problem. I don't expect one unless I run over something.

Bottom line: You can't have too much tire under your unit.

[4kids2dogs&RV]

I just watched a video of a guy replacing his OEM tires with Saulin S637. Anybody using them?
Here's the video: https://youtu.be/VP6T4VeTWPE


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[Steve7]

I haven't used them, but another forum I'm on has rv'ers using them and liking them..

[travelin texans]

Just put the H rated 16 ply 17.5" on mine, but haven't moved since so no opinion yet other than they are a great looking tire.

[Loneoak]

We have had a total of three bearing failures on our current trailer and two flat trailer tires, one on this rig in Alaska and one on our previous rig in Kentucky.

Before we left for Alaska, Hubby decided it would be a good idea if the trailer spare was in the back of the pick-up instead of underneath the trailer where it normally stays. We visited friends on the way out and he and Jim (an engineer) took the tire off the bottom of the trailer. It turned out to be a good idea because they had to figure out how to do it. We did need the spare and the truck was a good place for it. We have roadside assistance, but Hubby figured it would be faster to change it himself.

Our daughter had a flat on her Sunset Trail 5er in Toronto this past fall and she could not change it because she could not get the spare off the back of her trailer. It turned out you need a special tool for that, which obviously was not included with the trailer, which she purchased new. She had roadside assistance, but being a Sunday night, it took a while for them to respond.

Those are my tire stories.

By the way, we now carry spare bearings. This is because bearing failures do not always occur when the repair places are open.

[harley]

No wrenches ever come with any trailers. you have to get them yourself and should practice taking and putting on one tire so you know you have everything if needed. Including a jack.
Most rims require a 13/16 spark plug socket (thin walled) that has an end that accepts a 7/8 socket .either use a 4 way or a 2' breaker bar on that socket. Torque wrench if you want.
Spare greased bearings with races and a piece of dowl to knock out rear bearing and brass punch to knock out races, if they go too. spare seals also. and cotter pins.
While you are at it ,make sure you have wrenches to tighten shackles and spring u bolts.
As for rear spare holder, I think I can take mine off with an adjustable wench on the long bolt and the 4 way for the short bolt.

[travelin texans]

There should be a note posted somewhere in plain sight on all rvs stating;
TOOLS WILL BE REQUIRED, BUT NOT FURNISHED, AS REPAIRS WILL BE NEEDED!

[dedmiston]

I haven't seen anyone else mention this technique.

When I flat out, I pray for dirt. I'll even drive a little farther to find a safe dirt surface.

Grab some leveling blocks and a shovel. No Jack.

Put the blocks under the good tire(s) and dig a hole in front of the bad one. Loosen the lugs and then pull forward to raise the good wheels and suspend the flat over the hole. Drop your stabilizer jacks for safety.

That's the easiest way I know of to change a tire.

[mark5w]

I hope it's soft dirt. Problems happen when you can't find a good soft dirt area. Besides, that's too much like work. Would rather use a different method. Or, call roadside service.

[dedmiston]

We boondock in the desert. We already dig holes on the high side to level. You get used to it, especially when your son is on the trip and you can make him dig.

[mark5w]

But that's forced labor.

[dedmiston]

Originally Posted by mark5w

But that's forced labor.

We prefer to call it "parenting", but yeah, I think we're talking about the same thing.