Rear extender braces

[KMOSS]

Question of the day from a newbie. I have a 2011 mk32 provincial edition that I purchased last year and was working great when I put it away. I cannot now electrically lower the rear braces on the 5th wheel, I've checked the breakers and see that the fuses seem to be fine. I've taken a look at the wiring,looks fine. Ah ideas?

[Captain Mike]

Did you try checking voltage to motor with a volt meter?

[dalemac377]

If no voltage at motor, then check the switch. It could be the culprit.

[NorskeNY]

I had the same problem on my 2012. Worked last fall but not in the spring. The switched checked out good (contacts opening and closing) I have power to the switch.

I manually lowered the jacks when we went for a 5 day trip in April.I disconnected the connector on the switch when I manually operated the jacks.

I have not looked at the location of the fuse and auto reset breaker. I was told that they are in the front compartment behind the battery box. There is a power center that has a plastic cover over it so I assume that is where they are located.

I contacted Crossroads and they told me to take it to the closest authorized crossroads repair/warranty center. I took the trailer to the local Camping World (28 miles from me) for motor replacement the end of April. The bad news - mine has been at the shop for 2 weeks. They had to verify my troubleshooting, contact crossroads and have crossroads ship them the part. I was told last week that the part has been shipped.
I have looked on-line and a new motor/switch assembly is about $300 to 350. Some have found that the brushes and brush springs are the problem on these motors (probably not sealed properly).
I'll let you know what the "final fix is'.

From the manual:

TROUBLESHOOTING – MOTOR
Before attempting to troubleshoot the motor, make sure an adequate power
source is available. The unit batteries should be fully charged or the unit should
be plugged into to A/C service with batteries installed. Do not attempt to
troubleshoot the motor without assuring a full 12V DC charge. The following
tests require only a DC voltmeter (or DC test light) and a jumper lead.

Step 1 - Attach voltmeter (or test light) leads to the motor leads. Does the meter
indicate 12V DC?
If YES, see Step 2; if NO see Step 3.
Step 2 - If YES, at the motor, check the incoming leads to 12V DC (if necessary,
disconnect leads at wire splices). Does meter indicate 12V DC? If YES, motor
needs to be replaced. The motor is not field serviceable. DO NOT ATTEMPT
TO REPAIR. If NO, Inspect all wires and connections between the wall switch
and the motor. Repair connections as necessary. Recheck as in Step 1.
Step 3 - If NO, Inspect all connections between battery and motor. Inspect 6A
Auto-reset Circuit Breaker and 20A Fuse.
Recheck as above in Step 1.
Since there are no field serviceable parts in the motor, electrical troubleshooting
and service is limited to replacing only those components as previously outlined.


Edited by: NorskeNY

[avvidclif]

For me the solution would be easy, Harbor Freight 18v 3/8 drill/driver $20. One adapter and a socket. 10 times as fast and has other uses. Mike had one at the Texas Rally and the rear leveling jack was down in seconds as opposed to over a minute with the slow motor. If mine ever dies that's what I'm going to do. If I ever sell the trailer I'll let the "jack motor" go with it.

[NorskeNY]

avvidcliff
That is what I did on my last 2 fifth wheels - used a socket adapter and cordless drill on each of the jacks - they were separate jacks - right and left manual Vs the single motorized unit on our 2012. I'll need to make an adapter for a cordless drill for the manual override coupler on our2012.

Edited by: NorskeNY

[Captain Mike]

Since it was brought up and if you want to take it one step further;
I have been using a 18 volt impact drill, Originally I purchased it for changing tires in case of flat. It has the 1/2" socket drive and works great. Just be careful to back off once you get pressure on the leveler. These impacts have a lot of power and could damage the leveler without restraint.

[NorskeNY]

Anyone use the Socket Jenie - model<i style="font-family: Arial, Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif; line-height: normal; text-align: left; : rgb238, 238, 238; ">LVSG-510 or</span>[/i]

<i style="font-family: Arial, Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif; line-height: normal; text-align: left; : rgb238, 238, 238; ">LVSG-501 . </span>[/i]
<div style="text-align: left;">The lippert manual crank rod has the slotted end Vs the socket end.<div style="text-align: left;">
<div style="text-align: left;">http://www.rvupgradestore.com

<i style="font-family: Arial, Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif; line-height: normal; text-align: left; : rgb238, 238, 238; "></span>[/i]

[avvidclif]

Originally Posted by Captain Mike

Since it was brought up and if you want to take it one step further;
I have been using a 18 volt impact drill, Originally I purchased it for changing tires in case of flat. It has the 1/2" socket drive and works great. Â*Just be careful to back off once you get pressure on the leveler. These impacts have a lot of power and could damage the leveler without restraint.

I thought about that but $20 vs $120 convinced me....

[KMOSS]

Thanks for the replies, I found the problem, a dirty switch.

[bdusa1]

whar adapter are you referring to the lift is more than 1/2 inch wont fit on my drill s. In advance thank you

[harley]

try this ...I made my own enclosed switch covers.