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Old 10-20-2012, 12:37 AM   #1
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I'm really having a lot of friction when trying to pull the gray and the black water cables. Could be the valves or the cables need lubricating. I've had to clean the black tank valve once before and it's a pain to have to drop the underbelly cover for this simple procedure.

Any ideas on lubricating the cables and valves that might last a while? I would really like to just re-plumb and go with the old valves that were direct (hand) operated on the end of the of the sewer/water line, but the way Crossroad locates the ABS lines it would be difficult on my trailer. Wonder why they ever left this configuration in the first place?

Any ideas appreciated.




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Old 10-20-2012, 01:02 AM   #2
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I haven't had any great amount of sticking or tension when pulling the handles. It seemed like they were a little tough at first, so I started spraying WD-40 on them every time I dumped. Nothing has gotten any worse, so don't know for sure if that is a help or not. Keith mentioned about dumping a cup of cooking oil in the toilet and I believe the other drains, with the idea this would lubricate the valves and prevent sticking. I intend to try this next year when I pull the rig out of storage. Maybe he will add to this.



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Old 10-20-2012, 01:11 AM   #3
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I would like to know also. Just bought a 305SK and had a chance to take it out before putting it away for the winter. Water,black water flush and cable hook up in basement, alone with dump valve handles with a nice four inch hole for access. While I was winterizeing the water heater I could see the black water flush and the city water hook up from the inside of the camper. I will be mounting them on the outside come spring, and getting rid of the four inch varmint access to my basement. Will also be looking to move the dump valve handles.



Just like PULPWOOD 007 I would like to know if anone has already moved these items
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Old 10-20-2012, 01:31 AM   #4
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I don't have answer for your valve problem, but there are a few options for your varmint access. I think old farmer has a solution to this, I think its his picture I seen somewhere on here a while back. But I took a piece of plastic about 4" in diameter (its acutally a lid from a yogurt container) and cut a small hole in center just large enough for the hose to pass through. It sits in there nicely.



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Old 10-20-2012, 09:23 AM   #5
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pulpwood007, below is the post Old Farmer was talking about I posted. I also do as he does and give the cable a blast of WD40 every so often before I use the valves. I think this helps the cable but I think most of the sticking is in the valve blade. I plan on using oil in the tanks on ours to lube the valves on our trip in December.

http://www.crossroadsrv.com/forum/fo...s.asp?TID=5704

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Old 10-20-2012, 01:21 PM   #6
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I removed the valve today and cleaned it. This helped up the action considerably. I have not re-installed the valve yet so before I do, I'll lubricate it with Plumber's Silicone lubricant. I also think I'll remove the inner core wire on the pull cable and use either some graphite or link chain lubricant. Hopefully this will only be an every 3 or 4 year project.

I have no idea whether the vegetable oil in water will work but does not sound real effective. I did not see a post in that other thread stating it did work. The oil should float on the surface of the water so I question how it would saturate the valve blade or seals.

I think one thing I will definitely do in the future is to close the valve when I winterize. I left it open last year and I feel this may have dried the seals. Live and learn!!




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Old 10-20-2012, 10:17 PM   #7
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"I have no idea whether the vegetable oil in water will work but does not sound real effective. I did not see a post in that other thread stating it did work. The oil should float on the surface of the water so I question how it would saturate the valve blade or seals."</span>
</span>
You do not fill the tanks with water then put the oil in just put maybe a couple of gallons in with the oil before you take a trip so it can slosh around in the tank and the valve. The when you get to the campground you would drain the tanks off opening and closing the valves a few times to get the blade and seal covered with the oil. I figure it is worth a try before you tear into the valves which is not a fun job when they are up inside the underbelly. Been there, done that.</span>
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Old 10-21-2012, 07:12 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hunter11
"I have no idea whether the vegetable oil in water will work but does not sound real effective. I did not see a post in that other thread stating it did work. The oil should float on the surface of the water so I question how it would saturate the valve blade or seals."</span>
</span>
You do not fill the tanks with water then put the oil in just put maybe a couple of gallons in with the oil before you take a trip so it can slosh around in the tank and the valve. The when you get to the campground you would drain the tanks off opening and closing the valves a few times to get the blade and seal covered with the oil. I figure it is worth a try before you tear into the valves which is not a fun job when they are up inside the underbelly. Been there, done that.</span>
Yes, definitely worth a try. I've seen it mentioned here and on other forums but never heard of anyone who actually tried it. Having taken these valves apart several times through he years I'm just not sure a thin film of the vegetable oil (on the surface of the water) would reach much of the valve. Somebody give it a try, and report back!!
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Old 10-21-2012, 07:26 AM   #9
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I am going to treat ours on a trip we will be taking the middle of December and will report back when we get home in January or from the road.
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