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09-09-2017, 08:24 AM
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#1
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Weekend Camper
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: ME
Posts: 17
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Stuck Valves
New to the forum and new to camping also. Recently purchased a 2012 Sunset trail reserve 29SS. Deal was to good to pass up so we went ahead with the purchase. We went camping last weekend and everything was fine with the trailer. As we were pulling out of the campground we stopped to drain the holding tanks, and when I pulled the grey water valve handle, I could not budge it, same with the black water valve. Thinking back now, I guess these should have been checked. The camper had sat unused for about 18 months, it was winterized but I assume the holding tanks have sat empty for this long. I used the sinks a few times on the weekend and only flushed the toilet, a few times to remove the antifreeze. When I try to find the valves, they are in the enclosed underbelly, has anyone ever had to change these and if so, how did you get to them? Do you think that with the water that was added to the tanks, last weekend, it my soften up the valve seals and maybe free them up? The campground we stayed at has a large parking lot to store campers, so we left it there until we return next weekend. Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks
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09-09-2017, 08:31 AM
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#2
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Gone Traveling
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Texas
Posts: 1,392
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If you add about a 1/4 cup of cooking oil to each tank with a little water it should help the valves. Otherwise you'll have to lower the underbelly to replace them, there's 4 bolts holding the valve gate in between the 2 halves, the rebuild should include the gate & 2 new seals 1 for each half.
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09-09-2017, 08:44 AM
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#3
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Weekend Camper
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: ME
Posts: 17
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I'll give that a try on my way home from work this afternoon, I'll be passing right by were the trailer is parked. Would you lower the underbelly or cut an access hole? With the new valves, how would you connect the pull rods that pass through the underbelly? Hopefully I won't have to go this far but I would rather be prepared.
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09-09-2017, 10:08 AM
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#4
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Site Team
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: PA
Posts: 5,715
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I'd give the oil a shot before you go to replace them, for the water, try using a bucket of very hot water in the tanks. May help soften up the gaskets.
__________________
Mark & Susan
Lehighton, Pennsylvania
EAGLE HT FIFTH WHEEL | 30.5CKTS - '13 Ford F150 SCREW - PullRite Superslide - Roadmaster Active Suspension
Member - "Northeast Adventures RV Rally Group" & "Mason-Dixon Bunch"
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09-09-2017, 12:05 PM
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#5
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Gone Traveling
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Texas
Posts: 1,392
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You won't need to replace the cables, they're normally attached to valves with a set screw or some other way, but easily swapped to new valves. As said try the hot water with oil before replacing & if replacing lower the underbelly not cut it.
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09-09-2017, 02:24 PM
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#6
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Weekend Camper
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: ME
Posts: 17
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Thanks for the help, on my way home tonight, I poured some vegetable oil and got water down both drains, I'll let that sit until next weekend and see if it helps
Thanks again
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09-09-2017, 03:15 PM
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#7
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Full Time Camper
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Nv
Posts: 628
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Good advise given and I think that will work. Since you are new to all this and haven't opened the valves, I just want to let you know sometimes you have to pull very hard to open them. This is often the case when new, let alone one that sat for 18 months. By the way, your dealer should have confirmed all that worked (surprise, surprise), not that that will help you now.
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Steve & Sue
2017 Grand Design 297RSTS Travel Trailer
2017 Ford F-350 Lariat Crew Cab diesel 6.7 SW LB 11,500 lb GVWR package
Former: Crossroads ST26RB
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09-09-2017, 04:41 PM
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#8
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Weekend Camper
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: ME
Posts: 17
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This is good to know, I was pulling pretty hard and was a little scared that I may pull the handle out of the valve, like you said, I had never done it before. Maybe I should have given it a harder pull? As much as I would like to blame it on a dealer, it was my fault. I purchased it from an elderly man who had only used it a few times and was now no longer able to handle camping. I did a basic walk through and everything looked in really good shape, never even thought of the waste valves. I think I got a really good deal on it, wasn't really looking to buy a trailer, but glad we did.
Thanks
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09-09-2017, 05:33 PM
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#9
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Full Time Camper
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Nv
Posts: 628
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brox
This is good to know, I was pulling pretty hard and was a little scared that I may pull the handle out of the valve, like you said, I had never done it before. Maybe I should have given it a harder pull? As much as I would like to blame it on a dealer, it was my fault. I purchased it from an elderly man who had only used it a few times and was now no longer able to handle camping. I did a basic walk through and everything looked in really good shape, never even thought of the waste valves. I think I got a really good deal on it, wasn't really looking to buy a trailer, but glad we did.
Thanks
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Okay, I thought it was off a dealer lot. I'm sure you'll get it going. Also, just in case you haven't read up on it, be sure to ALWAYS add some water (2-4 gallons) and whatever sanitizer/dissolver in your black tank after flushing so any leftover solids don't dry out and cause problems. There are flush methods though that will completely, or darn near, get everything out. If you have a black tank flush, that will work well.
__________________
Steve & Sue
2017 Grand Design 297RSTS Travel Trailer
2017 Ford F-350 Lariat Crew Cab diesel 6.7 SW LB 11,500 lb GVWR package
Former: Crossroads ST26RB
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09-18-2017, 02:57 PM
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#10
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Weekend Camper
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: ME
Posts: 17
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Just wanted to thank all those who replied, camped again this past weekend and not sure if it was the water in the tanks or the cooking oil that was poured down, but when I emptied Sunday, the valves worked perfectly.
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09-18-2017, 04:32 PM
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#11
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Site Team
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: PA
Posts: 5,715
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Glad to hear it worked out for you. When I winterize, I also put some olive oil in the toilet. Won't dissipate and will keep the seal soft.
__________________
Mark & Susan
Lehighton, Pennsylvania
EAGLE HT FIFTH WHEEL | 30.5CKTS - '13 Ford F150 SCREW - PullRite Superslide - Roadmaster Active Suspension
Member - "Northeast Adventures RV Rally Group" & "Mason-Dixon Bunch"
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11-08-2017, 09:11 PM
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#12
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Site Team
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: VA
Posts: 1,716
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I saw this video today on sewer valves. It looks like a good idea. https://youtu.be/2GDErKY05-8
__________________
2013 Silverado 2500HD LTZ CC 6.6L Duramax Diesel
2023 Rockwood 2445WS
Buster, miniature Dachshund
2023: 9 trips, 48 nights in 12 states, 2 provinces, 8120 miles
2022: 3 trips, 18 nights in 4 states, 2352 miles
2019: 7 trips, 43 nights in 6 states, 5336 miles
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11-10-2017, 07:11 PM
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#13
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Full Time Camper
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Pennsylvania
Posts: 2,766
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DavisK
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Kemp
that is a great tip and would work great on my old rig, valves under the belly pan, but on the new rig will have to drop the belly pan to get at the valves...With that being said still better than having to replace the valves...
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Rosie & Tommy
Coatesville Pa.
2017 Ford F350 Lariat Power Stoke DW
2022 Alliance Avenue 32RLS
In God We Trust
A proud member of the one percent...Semper Fi
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11-11-2017, 06:34 PM
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#14
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Seasonal Camper
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Central Indiana
Posts: 262
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SleepyT, my valves failed on the last trip out (wouldn't close & seal properly). I found the cables at a RV surplus shop as well as electric valves. I'm having my valves replaced with DrainMaster valves (not Valterra).
I'm like you, I didn't much want to pull the belly liner down to oil the valves or to replace them for that matter.
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Al & Linda
2022 GMC Denali 3500HD SRW, Crew Cab, Std bed, 6.6L Duramax, Allisons, PullRite Superglide, Triglide
2011 Crossroads Seville VF35CK11 (sold)
2021 Alliance Paradigm 365RD
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