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Old 08-10-2019, 09:01 AM   #1
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Wheel torque

I have a 2013 26b crossroads trailer does anybody know the torque spec for the rims
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Old 08-10-2019, 01:39 PM   #2
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I set mine at 110. Manual says (110-120 ft/lbs or 140-150 ft/lbs for 9/16” stud)
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Old 08-10-2019, 02:49 PM   #3
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I use 100 ft./lbs. on every vehicle I own or have ever owned. And I will only use an impact wrench to remove. That includes 3 TT's, Trucks, SUVs, Mustang racer, and NASCAR Modifieds with 10" Hoosier tires on steel 5 lug rims. Never a failure and never a warped rotor.
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Old 08-10-2019, 05:43 PM   #4
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My Cruiser has the Al-Ko axles and the manual says 105 - 110. They are 6 lug not sure of the bolt size but i could check later
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Old 08-11-2019, 06:11 PM   #5
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thanks for everyone's help
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Old 08-11-2019, 06:21 PM   #6
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I don't torque any where near those figures. I think mine called for 90#, but at that setting it was pulling the threads on the studs and the nuts.
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Old 08-13-2019, 01:43 PM   #7
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I don't torque any where near those figures. I think mine called for 90#, but at that setting it was pulling the threads on the studs and the nuts.


You might want to try another torque wrench. Discount Tire would only torque to 90. I take them to 110 with no problems.
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Old 08-13-2019, 02:45 PM   #8
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I never use a torque wrench, just go by the feel. But after more years than I care to say you kinda have a system. On truck aluminum wheels I use a 1/2'' strong arm, same as the trailer aluminum wheels when I'm at home near the shop, and the boat is just a 1/2'' ratchet but those are just plain steel 12'' rims and less likely to ever get loose compared to an aluminum wheel. I'll tell you many years ago I had one heck of a time to get the tires loosened on the truck after a new tire install and there impact wrench with probably 150psi and fancy snap-on torques type sockets. So I at home with a strong arm and a 2 foot snipe broke there tightening job and retightened all my wheels at home. Anyways 2 weeks ago we encountered a flat out in the middle of no where and the trailer hooked on with a 50 mph wind pestering you. But with the chevy tire tools and jack provided changed to the spare without much fuss in about 20 minutes, but I sometime in the past also added a 18'' piece of tubing that extends my leverage for there provided wrench. That was just one of those times when planning ahead just incase, paid for itself so many times over in convenience from a 50 cent piece of pipe. I did have also another jack in the trailer with a complete set of tools that would have also changed the tire problem, but I'm just saying it's always a good practice to be prepared. Unless waiting 8 hours for assistance is convenient for ya out on a grid road where your lucky to see another car in 2 days.
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Old 08-13-2019, 03:29 PM   #9
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Aceallenk, I cannot agree more, experience and feel are the best tools in every good mechanics toolbox. I don't want to warp the discs on my driven vehicles so I always torque them. That said, drum brakes as are usually what TT's have, they are much less susceptible to warping due to their 2 plane construction. But they can and will warp - especially during very hard braking that push heat/cool cycles past the design for a material's hardening/stress relief profile. Mountain driving, collision avoidance, and brake controller settings that exceed tow vehicle braking are very common factors attributed to warping failures.
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Old 08-13-2019, 06:27 PM   #10
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You might want to try another torque wrench. Discount Tire would only torque to 90. I take them to 110 with no problems.

You could be right.
I thought of that a few years back, so I took my torque wrench down to the local garage and we checked it out with one of the wrenches they had.

They both checked out the same. So I figured that blew that theory.
But, who knows, maybe something has changed since then.
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Old 08-16-2019, 08:52 PM   #11
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i have 2013 32 RL with 6 lug alloy wheels. I torqued them to 140 ft.lbs
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Old 08-18-2019, 02:26 PM   #12
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Thanks for your help
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Old 10-10-2019, 06:55 PM   #13
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Maintain Proper Lug Nut Torque

I should have watched this video years ago.
The first time I checked the torque on our old 5th wheel I could tighten some of the driver side RV lug nuts by hand.

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Old 10-12-2019, 05:36 AM   #14
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Might want to be careful with that 140lb torque. I had a tire snap all 6 lugs off a couple years ago. Cruiser at first response tried to say it was because I had over torqued the lugs which stretched and weakened them. This was then rebutted by the mobile repairman who they sent to fix it. But made me pay more attention when removing and reattaching tires!
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Old 10-12-2019, 07:12 AM   #15
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Might want to be careful with that 140lb torque. I had a tire snap all 6 lugs off a couple years ago. Cruiser at first response tried to say it was because I had over torqued the lugs which stretched and weakened them. This was then rebutted by the mobile repairman who they sent to fix it. But made me pay more attention when removing and reattaching tires!
Thanks
but 100 lb torgue is my maximum on the RV alloy wheels. So far, so good.
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Old 10-12-2019, 08:31 AM   #16
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That 140 was with 9/16 studs. Dont agree with matching the stud to the hole though. When i do my brakes in the spring i rotate the tires just like on the truck. As stated earlier my Cruiser has the Alco axles and the book calls for 105 - 110 so i torque to the 110. Check again after about 50 miles or so.

One other thing i noticed in the video was the jack was under the axle.
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Old 10-12-2019, 09:38 AM   #17
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That 140 was with 9/16 studs. Dont agree with matching the stud to the hole though. When i do my brakes in the spring i rotate the tires just like on the truck. As stated earlier my Cruiser has the Alco axles and the book calls for 105 - 110 so i torque to the 110. Check again after about 50 miles or so.

One other thing i noticed in the video was the jack was under the axle.
With aluminum wheels, steel wheels also, torqueing the nuts every trip is not a good idea IMO, torque initially then again in a few hundred miles then your good til wheel removal the next time & do so while wheels are cold just like checking tire pressures. By torqueing every trip you will eventually stretch the bolts thereby weakening them plus will eventually crush the bevel in the wheel, by continually tightening the lug nuts something has to give at some point. Your tv most likely has aluminum wheels, or steel, do you torque those every trip?
Under the u bolts holding the springs to the axle is where I've placed the jack for over 40 years to remove trailer wheels & no issues yet. If placing the jack on the frame you'll need a very tall jack or lots of blocks to place the jack on (which to me is very dangerous) to ever jack high enough to get the tire off the ground.
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Old 10-12-2019, 03:29 PM   #18
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I also have used the jack under the axle for years with no problem at all. I was just pointing out that the manufacture in there own video showed the jack under the axle. When i rotate the tires on the truck i recheck the torque after about 75 - 100 miles and cant remember them not being to spec. But my truck is 140 and i use 135 or so when i check them so as not to over tighten them. Seems to me that checking them that often would lead to the studs stretching over time.
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Old 10-12-2019, 04:03 PM   #19
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[QUOTE=dagst1;139969]
One other thing i noticed in the video was the jack was under the axle.

It may have been jacked on the frame before the big jack stand was put into place.

I also have a jack under my axle lifting about 30 lbs to give me some extra clearance.
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Old 10-12-2019, 04:35 PM   #20
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At the 7:30 mark you can see the floor jack under the axle with no jack stand in place. The camper was then let down. I am not telling anyone to raise there camper one way or the other just pointing out the manufacturer - in this case Keystone - Jacked up from under the axle.
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