Winterizing the 28FB

GN2MOAB · 10-04-2014, 07:28 AM

Any tips on winterizing the 28FB? It's my first camper and I just want to make sure I don't miss anything.

I plan on clearing the system with air. I made my own blowout adapter, and will use no more than 35PSI.

I have not looked for it yet but I believe the bypass valve is behind the stair drawers?

The manual is pretty useless for these, not model specific.

RedNeck65 · 10-04-2014, 08:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GN2MOAB

Any tips on winterizing the 28FB? It's my first camper and I just want to make sure I don't miss anything.

I plan on clearing the system with air. I made my own blowout adapter, and will use no more than 35PSI.

I have not looked for it yet but I believe the bypass valve is behind the stair drawers?

The manual is pretty useless for these, not model specific.

The bypass valve for the WATER HEATER is underneath the back bottom bed. Make sure to turn both valves the opposite of what they are now.
The valve you use to winterize with is located outside at the rear of your RV. Where your water line connects to your RV, there is a valve you need to turn to "Winterize/Sanitize". It's that easy. Hook your blowout adapter and have at her.
Best of luck.
I was going to go the route you are going, but I decided to pump anti-freeze through my RV lines. Gets cold up here in Canada.

johnwill · 10-05-2014, 05:05 PM

I just did my 310SB yesterday for the first time. Tried the blow out method first. Did OK, but I could still hear water gergling in the lines so I just pumped antifreeze in the lines. It was easy. They have the pump on this one in a cabinet kitchen area. I tell you I watched Youtube and they have some good sites about winterizing. Used 2.5 gallons for mine.

GN2MOAB · 10-05-2014, 05:54 PM

I attempted mind today. Got most of it blown out but could still has gurgling also. my air compressor regulator would not provide enough CFM at 40 psi to move all of the water out, so I guess I will buy a water regulator made for RV's and then hook it up to the air compressor at full psi like I saw in a dealer video.

**Lloyd** · 10-06-2014, 06:27 AM

Are you guys sure you have the valves in the correct position for winterizing?
If you are hearing gurgling, then you probably are blowing air into the water heater.
I just blew the lines on mine yesterday, and had 40 psi, which did the job just fine.

ewbldavis · 10-06-2014, 10:10 AM

A tip - don't try to blow out thru the faucets (if this is what you've done).

Drain water lines first using your low-point drains, then leave caps off and hook up compressor. This is how I do it, and gets most water out. Then I cap them and fill with antifreeze.

Also, BEFORE using compressor, open each faucet/shower, etc. with low point caps off. This lets air in to drain the feed line. Letting lines/water heater drain while cleaning fridge has become our common practice. It saves some time, and works well.

**mark5w** · 10-06-2014, 03:16 PM

If you do blow through the faucets, as I do, you start with the faucet closest to the city water inlet and open one at a time and close as you work you way through all the faucets in your Rv. I also open the low point drain and blow through them also.
Eddy hit it right about opening up all the faucets to drain out through the low points drain. After all this, I still use the "pink stuff" in all the lines, tanks, and traps. It's so easy with the built in winterizing kit, that there's no reason not to. ESP up here in the NorthEast.

GN2MOAB · 10-06-2014, 04:45 PM

I opened the low point drain first and went to each faucet and let things drain by gravity as well as drained the heater tank. I then used the compressed air. The only gurgling I have was in the kitchen sink. The gurgling is a matter of my regulator on my CHEAP air compressor not having enough air flow when it is set at such a low PSI. it is drained pretty well for now. Once convinced that I am not camping anymore for the season (NOV 1) I am going to use some antifreeze in the lines as well. I have the Anderson 4 function valve so it will be easy that route.

Arctic Package Mod coming this spring! I have all winter to research and prepare. Everything I own is modded in some way. Stock just doesn't cut it.

Thanks to those that have replied!

**Lloyd** · 10-06-2014, 07:06 PM

There really isn't any reason that I can think of for trying to blow the lines by going thru the faucets.
You can buy a blow out plug pretty cheap. It screws into the city water hookup. Set your air pressure where ever you want it. Usually 40 to 50# will do it. Get one of those air chucks that clamps onto the stem. Then it's just a matter of going back and forth between faucets.

http://www.rvplus.com/valterra-blow-...lh3RoCL1rw_wcB

**mark5w** · 10-06-2014, 07:40 PM

That's what I do Lloyd, I just mean I blow OUT thru the faucets. I use a blow out plug just like you do and around 45 lbs of pressure. I start with the closest faucet and work my way away from the closest to the furthest.

johnwill · 10-07-2014, 02:59 AM

I can't find a low point plug for the 310SB. The only plug on it is for the water tank. The antifreeze works simple enough it has a built in hose for the gallon jugs. that is what I did. 15 bucks and I am done.

ewbldavis · 10-07-2014, 09:54 AM

I would expect them to be in the same place as mine. Look for 2 black caps (red/blue water lines) underneath by the main kitchen. Or possibly by the outdoor kitchen.

Good deal either way, though!

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