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Old 10-26-2016, 08:02 AM   #1
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Crack in 2015 Elevation

Has anyone had problems with a crack by the masterbedroom bed slide?

I have a crack that is getting bigger at the front left.

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Old 10-26-2016, 10:02 AM   #2
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Yes - relatively common. Do a search on this forum and you will find fixes and more info.
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Old 10-26-2016, 02:39 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by jerephillips View Post
Has anyone had problems with a crack by the masterbedroom bed slide?

I have a crack that is getting bigger at the front left.

JP
Wow. I have a 2015. Could you please post photos?
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Old 10-28-2016, 09:45 AM   #4
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Bumping this thread. I would sure love to see photos if you have any.
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Old 10-28-2016, 10:06 AM   #5
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Dedmiston- as mentioned, do a forum search for "siding crack" and "H molding". There are pictures and fix info posted.
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Old 10-28-2016, 12:32 PM   #6
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2015 Crossroads Elevation Problem

Crossroads Pics - I am going to a friend that owns a body shop. local Crossroads dealer said that is what they would do with it.



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Old 10-28-2016, 03:39 PM   #7
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I hope you have searched for and found what caused it to crack.

Then have the cosmetic work done.
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Old 10-29-2016, 12:06 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by jerephillips View Post
Crossroads Pics - I am going to a friend that owns a body shop. local Crossroads dealer said that is what they would do with it.
Fiberglass repair will not work due to flexing. As already mentioned 'H' trim is the easiest fix, provided this is caused by normal amount of flex. In fact many fifth wheels use the 'H' trim right from the factory, it is on my Cruiser. Normally it is installed vertically to be less noticeable but that isn't going to work in your case. You also may have a more serious structural issue, if flex is 3/4 inch or greater measured at the king pin, then you need to dig deeper.
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Old 10-29-2016, 12:45 PM   #9
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Here is my thread:

http://www.crossroadsowners.com/foru...fix-12269.html

Our crack was behind/below the bedroom slide and the repair facility installed an expansion joint instead of fixing it. The joint protects the opening so it does not allow water to penetrate while allowing for flexing. Fixing the crack apparently would not hold. It would just crack again.

I'm afraid you have to turn your computer sideways to see the picture with the fix. I can take this picture the right way if needed as our trailer is now in our driveway.
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Old 11-10-2016, 01:44 PM   #10
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Crossroads Pics - I am going to a friend that owns a body shop. local Crossroads dealer said that is what they would do with it.



DON'T DO THAT!!! I have a 2013 Elevation and CR paid for the fix and repair of this problem. Your dealer needs to reach out to CR and have them send a piece of "H" trim that they can install to relieve the pressure and flex of the laminate sides.


I'm telling you, this is common across all brands and all types of RVs with laminate sides. CR WILL TAKE CARE OF IT.
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Old 11-11-2016, 08:31 AM   #11
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Here is how mine came from factory
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Crack prevent.jpg (69.1 KB, 22 views)
File Type: jpg crack prevent2.jpg (124.3 KB, 17 views)
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Old 11-11-2016, 09:14 AM   #12
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Here is how mine came from factory


Yup, that's how they fix it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Old 07-26-2017, 02:35 PM   #13
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2015 Elevation Crack under Master Bedroom

Ok, I have read all the posts, but I think there is a bigger problem here. Our trailer has the H molding installed which allows the flex, that part I get.

However, the trim in this area is starting to pull away, and now I see the H molding is actually protruding away from the trailer. Further, the underside has a ripple effect which is new.

This is definitely structural in nature, and I don't believe CR or my aftermarket warranty are going to cover the repair.

My old trailer had the same problem. We had to remove the nose for an unrelated repair, and the inner supports were destroyed. I am assuming the same is the case here?

Anyone actually removed the nose to see what is going on inside this to cause the problem?

See my pics if you would, and I am open to suggestions. The application of H molding is not the answer here though, atleast not for me.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg IMG_1957.jpg (82.5 KB, 9 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_1958.jpg (86.6 KB, 10 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_1955.jpg (175.9 KB, 10 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_1956.jpg (147.8 KB, 9 views)
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Old 07-26-2017, 03:01 PM   #14
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2015 Elevation Crack under Master Bedroom

Here is a video of a gentlemen that took his apart "Keystone" with the Lipert Frame. Might not be a bad idea to open her up, and find a good welder.

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Old 07-26-2017, 04:48 PM   #15
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The video is of a frame with a gooseneck hitch. I know that they are not recommended by the rv manufacturers unless the rv frame is made for a gooseneck hitch. And the failure of the frame shows why.

I know other Lippert frames had failed, but in this video's case, it seems it's the fault of the rv owner.
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Old 07-26-2017, 05:25 PM   #16
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I agree, however that was not the point of the video. What I was showing was what I am now dealing with. I have found several others with the same problem, who were told to cover it up with H molding. No response from Crossroads. Been doing some digging, and Thor Motor Coach is the place to contact as they are the owners of this company now. I will be working with them, and maybe my attorney if I can't get any resolution. Sad it comes to this, but 76k is a lot to just throw away.
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Old 07-26-2017, 06:29 PM   #17
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I just went through the same issue with my 2011 Crossroads Seville. Crossroads when they finally responded we're quite helpful and supplied construction drawings to help me identify where the aluminum cage was. They reviewed my photos and recommended the fix. I also contact Lippert / LCI and they were quite helpful and supplied the lift test for the pin box and in turn determined that I did not have the pin box issue (yet). I put the expansion moulding in and need to road test the rig to be sure. There is lots of stuff on LCI frame flex on the internet and the "Goriila aluminum cage break away issue" You have to separate fact from fiction. True - the fifth wheel with the gooseneck hitch is not a good example - just think of the stress multiplier created by the gooseneck. The article on the aluminum cage weld breaks may apply to your case. Either way do some more testing and investigation before you tear it apart. Feel free to contact me or check my posts. Cheers
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Old 07-26-2017, 09:25 PM   #18
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The video is of a frame with a gooseneck hitch. I know that they are not recommended by the rv manufacturers unless the rv frame is made for a gooseneck hitch. And the failure of the frame shows why.

I know other Lippert frames had failed, but in this video's case, it seems it's the fault of the rv owner.
I'm curious as to why? The guy in the video says it was designed for it, regardless, what additional flex is there due to a change in the contact point of the TV? Isnt this the same as using an Anderson 5th wheel hitch?
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Old 07-26-2017, 10:23 PM   #19
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This is the info I have from another forum, actually from an Engineer.

"Just for your information, I thought I would put my engineering degree to use, and shoot some numbers in your direction.

A fifth wheel hitch setup is designed to have a very short pin length, so that torque from leverage (also known as bending moment) is minimal or zero at the connection frame in the trailer. This means that the engineers that designed the structure of the trailer to withstand a direct tension pulling force, but not a "bending moment". Here is what I mean....

Say the pin on your fifth wheel is six inches long (.5 feet). Bending moment is a torque force calculated by the force on a member multiplied by how far away it is from the support. In this case, the support is the trailer frame. So if you have an 8,000 pound force pulling back on the pin (the weight of the trailer, under acceleration, for instance), then your bending moment is 8,000lbs(.5 ft)= 4,000 foot-pounds of torque. This is the design strength of your trailer's frame, without the factor of safety, which is usually 25%. So 4,000 times 25% is 1,000. Add 1,000 to 4,000, you get the maximum torque (bending moment) that the trailer frame is designed to handle, or 5,000 foot-pounds.

Now, take the same trailer, and add an 18" (1.5 foot) goosneck extension, and here is what you get with the same 8,000 pound force.
8,000 lbs(1.5 feet) = 12,000 foot-pounds of torque. That is over twice the designed torque or bending moment rating of the trailer frame!!!!

Now you can see why this is not a good idea, even though at first, it would seem to be okay. It is all about the leverage that you put into your trailer's frame when you extend the pin beyond its design length. Don't listen to anybody that tells you it is okay without some pretty serious structural enhancement."

But there is an exception that Lippert allows. From E Trailer website:

"I spoke with my contact at Lippert and I have a solution as to how to maintain your warranty and still be able to pull your fifth wheel trailer with the gooseneck hitch. She said that the use of any extension or gooseneck adapter will void the limited frame warranty. This would include the use of the Andersen Gooseneck Hitch to Fifth Wheel King Pin Adapter, # AM3225.

To maintain the warranty, her recommendation was for the Reese Goosebox. It is an acceptable aftermarket replacement for Lippert pin boxes. When properly installed, this does not void the Lippert limited frame warranty."

Your decision.
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Old 07-26-2017, 10:45 PM   #20
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The Anderson does not require a change of the 'neck' i guess you call it. Its an adapter on the pin. Anyway...

Based on what the rep told you, and what I see in the video, the guy was OK. It was a Reese GooseBox.
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