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Old 12-09-2009, 09:46 AM   #21
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Well now that know that it should move by hand I finally got it to move. It was stuck with old greaese, dirt, rust, etc...Will clean it , oil it , and grease it first chance I get, thanks again!...and If I'm wanting to engage the slider into a different position for added manuverability, do I simply place the leaver in middle and pull the tv forward?...
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Old 12-09-2009, 09:47 AM   #22
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...with the camper attached I mean...
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Old 12-09-2009, 12:01 PM   #23
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I just move the lever to the opposite position (I never use the center area), apply the trailer brakes and move the truck for or aft. The hitch should self lock after it slides. As a safety precaution, I painted lines on the hitch where the lever locks for both directions. I can now see at a quick glance if the unit is locked or not.
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Old 12-09-2009, 02:56 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stan
I just move the lever to the opposite position (I never use the center area), apply the trailer brakes and move the truck for or aft. The hitch should self lock after it slides. As a safety precaution, I painted lines on the hitch where the lever locks for both directions. I can now see at a quick glance if the unit is locked or not.
My 16 K Signature series has a safety pin that is inserted on the side that locks the slider. The handle can not be moved when the pin is in place. There is a place for a pin on both sides. Reese only supplied one pin but I got a second pin to make sure both sides were locked in place. Thus no need for the painted lines.
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Old 12-13-2009, 09:36 AM   #25
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Thanks for all the input. I found a Curt 20k slider brand new with rails for $600 Canadian. No I have to get installed.
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Old 12-13-2009, 09:45 AM   #26
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I think you will really like the Curt hitch. It feels very secure when it latches shut around the kingpin. It also makes other 5th wheel hitches look wimpy in comparison.
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Old 12-15-2009, 06:40 AM   #27
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One more question...When hitched, the 5er is slightly unlevel with front endlower than rear. That may be a good thing, but if I were to either lower the pin box or raise the hitch, either would then be at their extreme postions. Do you see a problem stability-wise if I were to change either or both?? Or is it best to have more weight on the hitch as it is now??
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Old 12-15-2009, 08:52 AM   #28
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Ideally, you want the 5er lever with as much clearance between the bedrails and the front overhang as possible. My hitch isdown as far as it will go and the pinbox is as high as it will go. The 5er rides just slightly high in front.
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Old 12-19-2009, 10:45 AM   #29
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I like my Trailersaver 22k. The air suspension really takes a lot of the jerking & bumping out of the ride. It also helps the RV ride smoother. There are also air suspension pin boxes to replace the original one. I've towed our 36ft Silverado nearly 50,000 miles with no problems. It is about a 350lb unit though.
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Old 12-19-2009, 11:24 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stan
Ideally, you want the 5er lever with as much clearance between the bedrails and the front overhang as possible. My hitch isdown as far as it will go and the pinbox is as high as it will go. The 5er rides just slightly high in front.


It'simportant to ensure that the pinbox is up high. The reasonfor this is because you want to ensure that pinbox clears the truck bedrails when making a relatively tight turn. This is especially important when you use a slider hitch because the pinbox can hit the tailgate on the truck in the manuveur mode if you don't have the height. On our 5vr, I have the pinbox high and the hitch about in the middle of its possible positions and it gives me adequate clearance in all directions and about 8" of clearance over the bedrails in the towing attitude with the trailer sitting slightly high on the front end.
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