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Old 08-27-2014, 09:58 AM   #1
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Ram ridiculous payload

I have read a few threads now about guys pulling different trailers with their Ram 1500s. Mine is a 2012 outdoorsman QC 4x4. My payload is 1015lbs. with gear and people that leaves me about 590 lbs for hitch and tongue weight. When i bought the truck we didn't have plans to upgrade but now have a little one on the way and are looking for something that can be set up by one person and has a little more storage and were thinking bunks. My question is to the other Ram 1500 owners. What is your rated payload? What are you towing? Are you over your payload? By how much? These trucks seem so limited, I have found only 1 trailer that comes close, everything else is settling due to weight. Buying a new truck and trailer won't happen now because we are going to one income. And there is no need for a new truck if we can't buy both. I have been towing a long time, have done my homework and can get to that rating no problem. have air bags, can set WD hitches, just wonder how everyone else is actually doing it when i find it so restricted. Also curious if anyone knows the weak point in these trucks that makes it so low.
thanks all.
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Old 08-27-2014, 10:13 AM   #2
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The coil spring rear suspension offers a great ride but is limited in load carrying capacity.
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Old 08-27-2014, 10:50 AM   #3
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Maybe they don't do it with the 1500's ?

You are right to be concerned about an overload...
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Old 08-27-2014, 11:46 AM   #4
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In most cases, GVWR is less than the total of the GAWRs. Don't know how much different they are for your truck. I would get the actual, loaded truck weighed by axle and compare those numbers to the GAWRs. The combined difference would be your absolute top end payload if you can get the WD set up perfect. See how much better that is compared to the payload based on GVWR only.

Front GAWR could be limited by just about any component in the suspension. Rear GAWR is frequently limited by tire capacity before anything else. That is why a DRW can carry so much more weight even when frame and axle are no different than a SRW.

FYI, most older diesel 3/4 ton trucks have the same issue, too little payload compared to their towing capacity and there are many setups that exceed the truck's GVWR but not the individual GAWRs.
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Old 08-27-2014, 12:38 PM   #5
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My GVWR is 6700 lbs and my GAWR are both 3900. my truck loaded for camping is 3420 front 2660 rear total of 6080. that leaves 480 front and 1240 rear to hit the axel rating. but only 620 to hit the GVWR. because of the location of the tank, once you add water to almost any unit... its over, and i have about 250 lbs to go into the front storage and 150 lbs propane and battery as well. because of this although our choices are the ST270bh, ST300bh, or the ST28bh we would be over even with the 270 I think, because of which we are having to look at other brands with the water tanks all in the rear of the axels. but wifey was wondering how everyone else is pulling with our truck when we can't. I told her its because they either don't know or don't care i guess.
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Old 08-27-2014, 01:11 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hunterred View Post
My GVWR is 6700 lbs and my GAWR are both 3900. my truck loaded for camping is 3420 front 2660 rear total of 6080. that leaves 480 front and 1240 rear to hit the axel rating. but only 620 to hit the GVWR. because of the location of the tank, once you add water to almost any unit... its over, and i have about 250 lbs to go into the front storage and 150 lbs propane and battery as well. because of this although our choices are the ST270bh, ST300bh, or the ST28bh we would be over even with the 270 I think, because of which we are having to look at other brands with the water tanks all in the rear of the axels. but wifey was wondering how everyone else is pulling with our truck when we can't. I told her its because they either don't know or don't care i guess.
So, you have 1720 lbs available, best case before exceeding the GAWRs. Quite a difference. All trailers need a minimum hitch weight for safe towing and your truck needs to be able to handle that weight. Having the water tank behind the axle can create a different problem, i.e. not being able to travel with a full tank because it results in too little hitch weight. In my opinion, it is better to exceed GVWR (but under GAWRs) and have a stable trailer than be under the GVWR and have an unstable trailer.
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Old 08-27-2014, 01:16 PM   #7
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Thanks for your input Larry, much appreciated.
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Old 08-27-2014, 01:36 PM   #8
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Are you sure the payload is 1015?? From the Dodge website the range is 1406 to 1491 depending on your axle ration. The chart could be wrong, but I got it off the Dodge website.


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Old 08-27-2014, 01:57 PM   #9
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Ya, I found that sheet as well, I forgot to mention I have the rambox as well which lowers it. it would seem according to the load specs from Ram I should have 1286 but my door sticker says otherwise. I guess it is what it is I just wondered I I am missing something in the math because I read other guys being able to pull them and mostly wondered what's different from my setup to theirs.
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Old 08-27-2014, 05:59 PM   #10
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The 1500 or half ton trucks usually get close to 5 mpg more then the 2500 or 3/4 ton gas brothers. This difference is because of the lighter running gear and suspension. I personally have never purchased a 1500 because I tend to carry a bunch cargo from time to time. I have attempted to tow with light suv's and they just can't handle any tongue weight. On my Hummer H3 I towed a small pop up well within its rating and it could not handle any tongue weight safely. It even had leaf springs so I had an extra leaf added.

But in the case of these 1500's I would recommend going bigger.
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Old 08-27-2014, 06:16 PM   #11
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Unfortunately options like 4wd and creature comforts inside all take away from payload. It is the very sad reality of all 1/2 tons and yes even 3/4 tons. I learned it the hard way with an suv with 810 lbs payload and a f250 with 1500 lbs payload. I finally gave in to the 1 ton but the reality of giving in to the one ton diesel is the fiver always ends up hitched to them instead of a smaller tt.

Honestly, I towed over my payload with my old armada and regretted it every time I towed. I had tail wagging the dog despite a properly adjusted reese dual cam wdh. I was pushed by every car, truck and suv that passed me. The worst was not having enough TV to control the trailer coming down a 7% grade in VA. I swore I would never tow over limits again.

With the 270bh you are looking at a dry weight of 6584 lbs. That will realistically translate into 7500-8000 lbs loaded. Ideal tongue weight is 13-15% of loaded trailer weight so you are looking at a tongue weight of 975 -1200 lbs once loaded. That is way past your trucks capabilities. You may want to consider trading the truck for a good used truck that would keep your payments the same or cheaper.
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Old 08-27-2014, 07:59 PM   #12
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Have you considered keeping what you have for another year???
You might not get much use out of the new one the first year anyway with an addition coming in the family.
Season is fast drawing to an end for northern people.
Next year you might be in a better position to upgrade camper and tow vehicle.
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Old 08-28-2014, 07:21 AM   #13
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We have the 2011 Dodge 1500 Outdoorsman and a 2013 SF32RL 5'er. We had the airbags installed and have had no issues towing the camper. The weight of the camper at time of manufacture was 8712 lbs and we figure another 10% of that weight for the stuff we've put in the camper. I know this exceeds the payload if you look strictly at the numbers but I've NEVER had any issue with sag, stopping, pulling or accelerating. Our truck, most likely is identical to yours in spec. Hemi, tow package, gearing, etc...
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Old 08-28-2014, 07:51 AM   #14
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Thanks for the reply gcross much appreciated! Do you happen to know the payload of the truck? Is it in the 13-1400 lb range? Or down as low as mine? I am glad the rig works for you, that's a nice trailer.
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Old 08-28-2014, 08:33 AM   #15
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Here's a link to the truck trend site that has ALL the specs. My particular model shows 1500 lbs payload and 10,000 lbs trailer tow capacity. Our truck is the 2011, 5.7L Hemi, crew cab 4x4, short box.

http://www.trucktrend.com/features/t...apacities.html
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Old 08-28-2014, 08:57 AM   #16
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I would not pay to much attention to the weight limits on the door sticker. In most cases they put a lower rating there so the can meet the emission laws and federal mpg ratings. I have a 2500 ram diesel and the door sticker is 8800 lbs. The spec sheet says I can pull 12050 lbs. I also have a 2015 SF32RL weighing is at 10750 lbs and have no problems at all pulling it.
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Old 08-28-2014, 09:29 AM   #17
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Are you guys saying it isn't necessary to go by Mfg. posted weight specs.??
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Old 08-28-2014, 10:09 AM   #18
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I'm not saying that at all. I'm posting my specs and my results. As the commercial says "results may vary by customer"! LOL...
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Old 08-28-2014, 04:16 PM   #19
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You could be like this guy, he posted a 2009 Open Range JF335BHS on Craigslist. Said it has all the options including an Onan 5500w genny. And here's what he said about towing:

"I added a Reese Elite Airborne SideWinder hook-up to it, so it can be pulled with a short-bed pick-up (I've pulled it with my half-ton Chevrolet ever since I bought it new -- and it handles it fine). "

Amazing....
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Old 08-28-2014, 04:43 PM   #20
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I want the specs the insurance companies lawyers would look at when determining liability if I am unfortunate enough to either be in an accident or worse cause an accident when trailering...
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