The hitch weight is the dry tongue weight not including any propane, batteries, water, etc. absolute worse case scenario. You would maybe be 13% of the trailers Gross Vehicle Weight Rating, so using your remaining payload you would be good for around a 7,000-7500lb fully loaded out camper. Now keep in mind that the max payload of your truck is spread out over the front and rear axle. If you look at your door sticker you will see the gross weights for both the front and rear axle. Also remember that a properly set up WDH will sling some of that tongue weight up onto the front axle of your truck and a couple hundred pounds back onto the front axle of the trailer. I used to really fret over every little pound but honestly I don’t think our trucks are going to just break in half being a couple hundred pounds over max payload on the occasional camping trip.
Take it for what it’s worth but i have a 2011 screw ecoboost 4x4 and my payload is only 1680. GVWR is 7650. Empty weight of the truck is 5970. We have a 28’ long camper with a dry weight of 5147 and fully loaded out for a 10 day beach trip including a couple hundred pounds of firewood, clothes, dog crates, beach canopy’s, grill, groceries, chairs, tables, pretty mich everything but the kitchen sink. We rolled across the scales at 6900lbs trailer weight. Now in the back of the truck i had 2 kayaks on the roof rack, more firewood, bicycles, blue ox sway pro weight distribution hitch. In the cab was myself, the wife, 4 year old son and his car seat, 2 weenie dogs, and an Australian shephard. Total scaled weight of the truck was 7,600lbs (3420 on the front and 4180 on the rear). 50lbs under my total GVWR, however my RAWR (rear axle weight rating) is only 4,050lbs, so technically I was 130lbs over weight on my absolute worse case fully loaded down camping scenario. But pulled it from WNC down to Hilton head area and back without any hesitation at 65-70mph the hole way. No sway, no “white knuckles”.
Now I am fixing to open up a big can of worms with the weight police, but here we go. The way I see it the door sticker gives those weights on stock tires at “X” PSI (typically a lower psi so you get that smooth ride) Now I have upgraded my tires to a 10ply and run them at 65psi when towing (I forget the actual weight on the tire loading chart, but its close to 2500lbs carrying capacity per tire at that psi) well over my scaled 4180lbs on the rear. I’ve also upgraded my brakes to powerstop Z36 towing pads with drilled and slotted rotors front and back. And I’ve installed Firestone ride rite airbags. I run about 35lbs in the bags and that raises the rear of the truck right back to stock level when towing and with my WDH set the front fender is also exactly at stock height. I have put a scaled 1yard bag of sand in the bed at 2300lbs plus myself in the truck (about 800lbs over my payload when counting myself) aired the bags up to about 65psi and leveled the truck right out and drove/stopped as if there was nothing in the back at all. Have done the same with loads of firewood as well. Long story short the truck has plenty of pulling power (and stopping power) and the occasional going over the max payload isn’t going to hurt them. I live in WNC as well so always pulling up and down hills and have never strained the truck pulling our camper. Even in the middle of summer when I come back up the mountain from South Carolina the warmest I have ever seen the trans was 214 and that was after pulling a 7% grade for several miles at 60mph in 4th gear (love this truck!) would a 3/4 ton Powerstroke do it better... absolutely! Is it necessary for my needs? Absolutey not....