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Old 03-31-2013, 09:53 AM   #1
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I've been RVing for several years now, but have never had this problem before. I sold a 2011 Blue Ridge fiver and bought a used 2007 Cruiser fiver. The smaller and lighter weight camper suits our needs better, but the doggone thing is towing nose high. I have already lowered the hitch as far as it will go. I have anywhere from 6 1/2 to 7" clearance from the bottom of the trailer to the top of the bed sides, so there really isn't much room for further adjustment of the pin box without sacrificing the needed clearance.

Things I have checked:
1. Axles are already mounted below the springs.
2. The spring mounting shackles are already in the lower hole.

This camper has the Lippert suspension. The tires are ST225/75R15 Load Range D. I thought going to a taller tire, but I just bought this set new right after I got the camper.

Have any of you had any experience with lifting a fifth wheel? If so, how did you do it? Do they make a kit for it?

Any help would be greatly appreciated. I don't really want to sink too much more in this thing, but it is loading the back tires pretty badly when I'm towing.
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Old 03-31-2013, 12:01 PM   #2
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How much out of level are you? When you're hooked up ready to go and on a flat level surface, have you ever measured from the frame to the ground on the front of the camper and the same in the rear so you know exactly how many inches it differs?


Actually, if you have 61/2-7 in. clearance to the box and you can move either the hitch or the pin box another hole, I would do it if it was me. That's only one in. and you should be able to squeak by with that for clearance. I know I"m going to get some flak for this but like I said I would do it on mine.
I'm about 1 in. high in the nose with the new truck and I can't move anything any more to level it. I have "about" 6 in. clearance. I have been thinking about going to 16 in. tires.

Edited by: Old Farmer
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Old 03-31-2013, 03:15 PM   #3
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I had to lower the hitch all the way down and raised the pin box all the way up and I have about 5.5". I am still just a bit nose high but not enough to concern me. I don't have any issues except on a very big ditch going into my Dad's driveway (and then I just make it). On normal speed bumps, driveways etc, I don't come close to hitting. If you have another hole for the pinbox, I would raise it and see how level you are.

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Old 04-01-2013, 05:53 AM   #4
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It would help if we knew how much you are nose high. On level ground what is the difference between frame to ground at the rear of the trailer and the front of the trailer when hitched?

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Old 04-01-2013, 10:10 AM   #5
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I have an 09 Cruiser I'm also a little nose high. I have lowered my pin on my camper and lowered my hitch. I bought a new truck this year and only had 4.5 inches of clearance between the bed rails and camper so I raised my hitch back up one hole. I think I will just have to live with it until I need new tires. I don't think it hurts anything to be a little nose high. I would think it would be better to be a little nose high then not enough clearance from the bed rail to where you could damage your truck or camper.


Edited by: longhauler
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Old 04-01-2013, 12:59 PM   #6
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Thanks for the advice. I will try raising the pin box one more hole before I try to lift it. I've read some on the internet about it and have come to the conclusion thatweldinga 2" to 3" square tube to the frame rails and then re-mounting the spring hangars might be the best option if it has to be lifted. Any experience on here with that?

I did measure from the top of the bedsides to the bottom of the camper, but I have not measured from frame to ground. I will pull it out of the garage this week and check it. It is enough nose high to be obvious with the naked eye.
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Old 04-01-2013, 01:55 PM   #7
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"...come to the conclusion thatweldinga 2" to 3" square tube to the frame rails and then re-mounting the spring hangars might be the best option if it has to be lifted. Any experience on here with that?"



For 2" go to lippert website and find the Correct Track alignment kit. You may have to search but there is a video with it. It will raise you 2". Although you may not need the kit, it will give you another idea about how to get that 2". Mine is currently at shop getting raised 2".
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Old 04-02-2013, 06:33 AM   #8
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I raised my camper with longer spring hangers and blocks between springs and axles. I have had no problems in 25,000 miles. That being said if I had to do it again I would build a sub frame for the spring hangers.
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Old 04-06-2013, 07:15 AM   #9
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I have a 2010 29RK that was too high in the front. When I bought it I had already planned on going to 16" wheels so I could get LT tires. To achieve enough room for the larger wheels/tires, and to raise the front end, I lifted the trailer 2".

At that time my trailer was still under warranty and Lippert said they had to do the modification to keep the warranty intact. I went along with it and their tech welder did a good job. He put a piece of 2" square tubing between the hangers and the frame then welded the hangers back to it. He then ran a piece of 2" tubing across the trailer to the corresponding hangers to beef it up.

After all was done, and with the 16" wheels it lifted the trailer about 3 1/2". Rides level and I have about 8" between trailer and truck rails. I can't imagine how anybody lives with less than 6" here.


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Old 04-07-2013, 01:55 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pulpwood007
I have a 2010 29RK that was too high in the front. When I bought it I had already planned on going to 16" wheels so I could get LT tires. To achieve enough room for the larger wheels/tires, and to raise the front end, I lifted the trailer 2".

At that time my trailer was still under warranty and Lippert said they had to do the modification to keep the warranty intact. I went along with it and their tech welder did a good job. He put a piece of 2" square tubing between the hangers and the frame then welded the hangers back to it. He then ran a piece of 2" tubing across the trailer to the corresponding hangers to beef it up.

After all was done, and with the 16" wheels it lifted the trailer about 3 1/2". Rides level and I have about 8" between trailer and truck rails. I can't imagine how anybody lives with less than 6" here.

What did Lippert charge you for the modification?
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Old 04-07-2013, 06:53 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pulpwood007
I have a 2010 29RK that was too high in the front. When I bought it I had already planned on going to 16" wheels so I could get LT tires. To achieve enough room for the larger wheels/tires, and to raise the front end, I lifted the trailer 2".

At that time my trailer was still under warranty and Lippert said they had to do the modification to keep the warranty intact. I went along with it and their tech welder did a good job. He put a piece of 2" square tubing between the hangers and the frame then welded the hangers back to it. He then ran a piece of 2" tubing across the trailer to the corresponding hangers to beef it up.

After all was done, and with the 16" wheels it lifted the trailer about 3 1/2". Rides level and I have about 8" between trailer and truck rails. I can't imagine how anybody lives with less than 6" here.

Sounds good. Lippert is a long way from here, but I would assume any goodtruck/trailershop should be able to do something similar. This camper is old enough that warranty isn't a concern, but I do want to make sure I can find somebody who has done this before and understands the important of trailer tire alignment. The question was asked above about what Lippert charged for this mod. Would you mind sharing that?
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Old 04-07-2013, 10:36 AM   #12
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BTW, I measured and with the trailer hitched on flat ground and 35 psi in my truck's air bags (which levels the truck), I am 26" ground to frame in the front and 20" ground to frame in the rear, so it is way off level. I'm going to raise the pin box all the way up one day this week, see if I have enough clearance between the loft and the top of the truck bed, then re-measure the ground to frame. If I can get it within a couple of inches and still have 5 1/2" to 6" clearance between the loft and bed, I will go with it for a little while and see how it does.
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Old 04-07-2013, 11:39 PM   #13
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WOW!
That is a lot. How many holes have got left on the pin box? Let us know how it works out for you.


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Old 04-08-2013, 03:08 PM   #14
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Got 2 holes left. I'm anywhere from 7" to 7 1/2" clearance between the bed and the loft now, so I'm not sure I can use them both, but we'll see.
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Old 04-09-2013, 09:02 AM   #15
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" I am 26" ground to frame in the front and 20" ground to frame in the rear, so it is way off level."



Mine was 28" front and 18" rear.



I'm not sure but each pinbox hole may be 2" and using the pinbox is

almost tit for tat front to back meaning that 2" inches lower in front will

raise the back up 2". It's different when raising the back--you gain some

in the front but not that much.



Your trailer is not as unlevel as you think. If you do the math, it is probably

about .2" rise per foot. Using one hole, I think that though it will not be level,

that you will be happy with it.



Before I put on the sidewinder, mine ran nose high but towed fine. If not for the

4" rise with the sidewinder, I would not have messed with it.
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