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05-31-2016, 10:41 AM
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#1
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Family Vacation Member
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: S. Illinois (means South of I-80)
Posts: 141
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Truck brake recommendations?
Hello, I need to replace my brake pads on my F150, any recommendations? I have close to 20k miles towing and want to be safe, and those I share the road with safe too. I could have done this in a truck forum, but since everyone here pulls travel trailers, I figured you are the experts for towing .
Thanks in advance.
__________________
2015 Sunset Trail 270bh
2011 Ford f150 Eco Beast 3.73-max tow-max payload, man mirrors
Screen Name = half Labrador, half Beagle and full of attitude.
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05-31-2016, 02:22 PM
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#2
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Full Time Camper
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: 1
Posts: 2,036
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20K towing is not a lot. How many miles on the truck? Most, if not all, of the newer trucks can go a long time without replacing brake pads. Have you had the brakes inspected - are they really worn? To answer your original question, I go with original manufacturer. Especially if they have worn well and no dust (I hate brake dust on the rims). My GM pads give off VERY little dust and have performed great - many report 150,000 miles before replacement.
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05-31-2016, 04:38 PM
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#3
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Gone Traveling
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Texas
Posts: 1,392
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My last GMC had 176k on the original pads & were still more than a 1/4" thick. If you need pads at 20k something is wrong (other than the truck brand), either you got sticking calipers on the truck or your trailer brakes are doing nothing to help in stopping both. Back to what brand of pads, I usually go with whatever parts stores premium pads, most are guarnteed for a lot of miles, OEM replacements just usually cost more than those premium.
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05-31-2016, 05:39 PM
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#4
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Full Time Camper
Join Date: May 2012
Location: N.C. Mountains
Posts: 2,417
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Quote:
Originally Posted by travelin texans
My last GMC had 176k on the original pads & were still more than a 1/4" thick. If you need pads at 20k something is wrong (other than the truck brand), either you got sticking calipers on the truck or your trailer brakes are doing nothing to help in stopping both. Back to what brand of pads, I usually go with whatever parts stores premium pads, most are guarnteed for a lot of miles, OEM replacements just usually cost more than those premium.
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I agree: 75,000 on mine and still fine.
__________________
*2016 CAF25SE Cruiser Aire 5er. *2020 Chevrolet 2500 HD Custom
*Ted & Tricia (Mimi - Teacup Poodle/ Sailor - Maltipoo)
*I have tried to live my life so that my family would love me and my friends would respect me. The others can do whatever the Hell they please!” —John Wayne
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05-31-2016, 08:03 PM
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#5
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Site Team
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: PA
Posts: 5,724
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__________________
Mark & Susan
Lehighton, Pennsylvania
EAGLE HT FIFTH WHEEL | 30.5CKTS - '13 Ford F150 SCREW - PullRite Superslide - Roadmaster Active Suspension
Member - "Northeast Adventures RV Rally Group" & "Mason-Dixon Bunch"
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05-31-2016, 11:17 PM
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#6
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Full Time Camper
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Saskatchewan
Posts: 844
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On the F250 and F350 trucks, the factory Ford pads are seriously very good. Very little dust and wear extremely well. I tow over 6,000 miles a year. Have 140,000 miles on my truck and rear pads were done at 110,000 miles and front pads at 130,000 miles. Original rotors are fine. Both were original Ford pads that I replaced for the first time. Front ones even had a little life left in them. You need to check for thickness and wear as they shouldn't need replacing yet unless you have much higher total mileage on the truck. Again I can't speak to the F150 directly but the Super Duty brakes are impressive right from Ford.
__________________
Scott
2013 CrossRoads Cruiser Patriot CF345RF
2011 Ford F350 Lariat FX4 CC 6.7L Turbo Diesel (Heavily Modified)
Saskatoon, SK
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06-01-2016, 06:14 AM
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#7
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Family Vacation Member
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: S. Illinois (means South of I-80)
Posts: 141
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stan
20K towing is not a lot. How many miles on the truck? Most, if not all, of the newer trucks can go a long time without replacing brake pads. Have you had the brakes inspected - are they really worn? To answer your original question, I go with original manufacturer. Especially if they have worn well and no dust (I hate brake dust on the rims). My GM pads give off VERY little dust and have performed great - many report 150,000 miles before replacement.
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My truck has 71,000 miles total, I am not sure the brakes worked too good in my old Jayco tt. My brake pads on drivers side look good, but on the passenger side pads don't look bad but I am getting 2 grooves. Also the pedal seems spongy. Again it might be me just being paranoid but better safe than sorry.
__________________
2015 Sunset Trail 270bh
2011 Ford f150 Eco Beast 3.73-max tow-max payload, man mirrors
Screen Name = half Labrador, half Beagle and full of attitude.
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06-01-2016, 09:05 AM
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#8
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Gone Traveling
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Texas
Posts: 1,392
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If the pedal is spongy that's not pads but master cyclinder, caliper, or fluid issue.
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06-01-2016, 02:46 PM
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#9
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Full Time Camper
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Saskatchewan
Posts: 844
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Quote:
Originally Posted by travelin texans
If the pedal is spongy that's not pads but master cyclinder, caliper, or fluid issue.
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Possibly. But they might also need a little self adjust. Lol. Fast way to determine whether or not your sponginess is due to wear, bad cylinder, etc or possibly just needing to do a little setup of the brakes is to find a highway / paved road with no traffic. Drive 70mph and then hit the brakes like you would if a deer ran out in front of you and take the truck to full stop as fast as you can. If the truck stops fast and the pedal comes back at you hard and feels firmer/higher after that you just self-adjusted your brakes and your pads, master cylinder, etc are fine. If your stopping distance seems long and your pedal remains spongy you need to check your fluid first, master cylinder second. Unless you ran your fluid out they shouldn't need bleeding if they are still oem factory pads unless air got in the system at some point.
This may seem odd, but it's a quick check especially for drivers who do not use their brakes hard, stop slowly, etc. believe it or not your brakes can start to feel lazy if you don't use them hard once in awhile.
__________________
Scott
2013 CrossRoads Cruiser Patriot CF345RF
2011 Ford F350 Lariat FX4 CC 6.7L Turbo Diesel (Heavily Modified)
Saskatoon, SK
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06-02-2016, 04:11 AM
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#10
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Seasonal Camper
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Tn
Posts: 384
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What color is the fluid? Ever changed it? Might need to dump it and replace it.
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06-02-2016, 06:13 AM
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#11
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Family Vacation Member
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: S. Illinois (means South of I-80)
Posts: 141
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WildWildWest
Possibly. But they might also need a little self adjust. Lol. Fast way to determine whether or not your sponginess is due to wear, bad cylinder, etc or possibly just needing to do a little setup of the brakes is to find a highway / paved road with no traffic. Drive 70mph and then hit the brakes like you would if a deer ran out in front of you and take the truck to full stop as fast as you can. If the truck stops fast and the pedal comes back at you hard and feels firmer/higher after that you just self-adjusted your brakes and your pads, master cylinder, etc are fine. If your stopping distance seems long and your pedal remains spongy you need to check your fluid first, master cylinder second. Unless you ran your fluid out they shouldn't need bleeding if they are still oem factory pads unless air got in the system at some point.
This may seem odd, but it's a quick check especially for drivers who do not use their brakes hard, stop slowly, etc. believe it or not your brakes can start to feel lazy if you don't use them hard once in awhile.
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I will try the self adjusting described above. I almost hit 3 deer on Monday running across the road, which is odd this time of year, normally don't see them. I didn't do a brake check though.
__________________
2015 Sunset Trail 270bh
2011 Ford f150 Eco Beast 3.73-max tow-max payload, man mirrors
Screen Name = half Labrador, half Beagle and full of attitude.
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06-02-2016, 09:59 AM
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#12
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Full Time Camper
Join Date: May 2011
Location: So. Cal.
Posts: 577
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Labbie
My truck has 71,000 miles total, I am not sure the brakes worked too good in my old Jayco tt. My brake pads on drivers side look good, but on the passenger side pads don't look bad but I am getting 2 grooves. Also the pedal seems spongy. Again it might be me just being paranoid but better safe than sorry.
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"Getting 2 grooves" is not a good thing. If you have worn out those pads and are at metal to metal, creating disc grooves, you will get a spongy feeling when applying the brakes.
I Would Not do that test WWW suggests, with one side possibly not operating properly, sending you promptly to the other lane and/or ditch.
Pull the calipers off, remove the pads and inspect. Remember, if you have a stuck pad on one side, it may be totally good looking from the top, and almost gone from the bottom, hence, remove and inspect. No flashlight checking here.
I've used the top of the line HD Wagner pads.
And btw, I'd love to hear the rational of how the concept of "lazy" brakes work, when not using them hard?
__________________
Bob and Better Half
2007 F-250 PSD, SW, CC, LB, 2WD
2006 TF32SS Cross Terrain Toy Hauler (sold)
Reese 16k slider
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06-02-2016, 10:19 AM
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#13
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Seasonal Camper
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Tn
Posts: 384
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Quote:
Originally Posted by r2millers
"Getting 2 grooves" is not a good thing. If you have worn out those pads and are at metal to metal, creating disc grooves, you will get a spongy feeling when applying the brakes.
I Would Not do that test WWW suggests, with one side possibly not operating properly, sending you promptly to the other lane and/or ditch.
Pull the calipers off, remove the pads and inspect. Remember, if you have a stuck pad on one side, it may be totally good looking from the top, and almost gone from the bottom, hence, remove and inspect. No flashlight checking here.
I've used the top of the line HD Wagner pads.
And btw, I'd love to hear the rational of how the concept of "lazy" brakes work, when not using them hard?
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I'm gonna hazard a guess and say it has to do with the frequency heating the rotors and the glazing effect pads can experience.
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06-03-2016, 11:32 PM
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#14
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Full Time Camper
Join Date: May 2011
Location: So. Cal.
Posts: 577
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Burgy
I'm gonna hazard a guess and say it has to do with the frequency heating the rotors and the glazing effect pads can experience.
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Here's a definition from one website on brake glazing. That would occur when someone over uses their brakes, not under uses them. Still have never experienced brake loss due to under using my brakes.
"Brake pad glazing is caused when the brake pad friction material is overheated. This results in crystallized friction material on the pad surface and the brake disc. Typical symptoms of glazed brake pads include: Poor stopping performance, vibration or brake judder"
__________________
Bob and Better Half
2007 F-250 PSD, SW, CC, LB, 2WD
2006 TF32SS Cross Terrain Toy Hauler (sold)
Reese 16k slider
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06-06-2016, 05:58 AM
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#15
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Family Vacation Member
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: S. Illinois (means South of I-80)
Posts: 141
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Quote:
Originally Posted by r2millers
"Getting 2 grooves" is not a good thing. If you have worn out those pads and are at metal to metal, creating disc grooves, you will get a spongy feeling when applying the brakes.
I Would Not do that test WWW suggests, with one side possibly not operating properly, sending you promptly to the other lane and/or ditch.
Pull the calipers off, remove the pads and inspect. Remember, if you have a stuck pad on one side, it may be totally good looking from the top, and almost gone from the bottom, hence, remove and inspect. No flashlight checking here.
I've used the top of the line HD Wagner pads.
And btw, I'd love to hear the rational of how the concept of "lazy" brakes work, when not using them hard?
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I disassembled, pads on passenger side were cracked, so I cleaned, lubed the slides and replaced the pads. Thanks everyone!
__________________
2015 Sunset Trail 270bh
2011 Ford f150 Eco Beast 3.73-max tow-max payload, man mirrors
Screen Name = half Labrador, half Beagle and full of attitude.
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06-06-2016, 06:56 AM
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#16
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Full Time Camper
Join Date: May 2011
Location: So. Cal.
Posts: 577
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Labbie,
So glad you found the issue sooner then later. Based on your mileage, I'd expect the pads to be OEM?
When I see others that have run their original pads way over 150k, or let them run until 10-15% of the pad remaining, it makes for concerns that something similar might happen...especially towing and on the road.
Better to be safe.
__________________
Bob and Better Half
2007 F-250 PSD, SW, CC, LB, 2WD
2006 TF32SS Cross Terrain Toy Hauler (sold)
Reese 16k slider
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06-06-2016, 07:01 AM
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#17
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Family Vacation Member
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: S. Illinois (means South of I-80)
Posts: 141
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Quote:
Originally Posted by r2millers
Labbie,
So glad you found the issue sooner then later. Based on your mileage, I'd expect the pads to be OEM?
When I see others that have run their original pads way over 150k, or let them run until 10-15% of the pad remaining, it makes for concerns that something similar might happen...especially towing and on the road.
Better to be safe.
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Yes pads were OEM, and without taking them out I would not have known they were cracked. The flashlight test wouldn't have done any good.
Maybe it was my paranoia but better safe than dead or killing someone.
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06-06-2016, 07:19 AM
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#18
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Full Time Camper
Join Date: May 2012
Location: N.C. Mountains
Posts: 2,417
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Yea always safe to check if you think something could be wrong. Glad you figured it out. Safe travels.
__________________
*2016 CAF25SE Cruiser Aire 5er. *2020 Chevrolet 2500 HD Custom
*Ted & Tricia (Mimi - Teacup Poodle/ Sailor - Maltipoo)
*I have tried to live my life so that my family would love me and my friends would respect me. The others can do whatever the Hell they please!” —John Wayne
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