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Old 03-24-2019, 08:03 PM   #1
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Add insulation to Sunset Trail Reserve with Arctic Package?

I have the need to drop the coroplast off the bottom front of my 2015 Crossroads Sunset Trail Reserve ST26RB to route some wiring.
It has the 'Arctic Package'.
I am wondering what to expect when I drop the coroplast, and if it would benefit me by adding some insulation while the coroplast is down.
Will I get a mess of fiberglass falling out?
I live in Minnesota, and we have a pretty short summer, and some real weather extremes. I don't plan to use the unit much in below freezing temps, but it happens, and perhaps I can save some heating and cooling.
Has anybody ever dropped the coroplast on a unit like this?
Has anyone ever added insulation below the floor, or recommend (or discourage) it?
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Old 03-31-2019, 02:37 PM   #2
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I can’t help, but am interested in the answer as would like to do the same on my Cruiser.
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Old 03-31-2019, 02:42 PM   #3
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On a former 5th wheel that developed a leak in the water lines, I added insulation to the bottom. I used 3 inch unbacked fiberglass. It was layered where we could and stuffed in areas. Did it help, some, but not as much as if it would have been in the ceiling.
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Old 05-31-2019, 08:08 PM   #4
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Well, I dropped the coroplast barely enough to get my wires through, and found there is a thin layer of foil backed bubble wrap laying on the coroplast, and a thin fiberglass layer just beneath the subflooring, held up by a fiberous mat, and sandwiched above the frame.
I had so much trouble just getting the coroplast down enough to get my wire in, I didn't do anything else. The fresh water tank strap, which is a beam, and the gas pipe really inhibited me from getting in there. Hope this helps someone. I added a battery monitor, and ran wires from the new battery bank on the tongue, to the switch panel one third of the way back.
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Old 06-01-2019, 06:32 AM   #5
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Does your trailer have coroplast for a cover on the bottom or a thin pliable membrane cover?
Every trailer I've seen comes from the factory with the thin membrane material.
Coroplast has always been something that's been added by the owner. Replacing the original membrane.
Picture of coroplast.



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Old 06-01-2019, 08:01 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lloyd View Post
Does your trailer have coroplast for a cover on the bottom or a thin pliable membrane cover?
Every trailer I've seen comes from the factory with the thin membrane material.
Coroplast has always been something that's been added by the owner. Replacing the original membrane.
Picture of coroplast.



Mine had thin crap that cracked. Replaced with the much thicker coroplast. Not the easiest job especially over the axles.
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Old 06-01-2019, 10:01 AM   #7
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I don't know what you call the material, but mine has the 'Xtreme Weather Package' and is the Reserve. It has material similar to your picture, and looks just like corrugated cardboard, but is plastic. I assume it is coroplast. It came from the factory like that.
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Old 06-01-2019, 10:26 AM   #8
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Wow, that's a new one on me. I didn't know the factory went to the extra expense of installing a decent cover on the bottom.
Glad you were able to get the job done.
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Old 06-09-2019, 07:05 PM   #9
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Coroplast

Bare with me as I'm new to this or any other forum. I checked into this site as I also have a Sunset Trail Reserve and needed info on replacing the underbelly of the trailer.

As Lloyd states, (more or less) the covering is cracked and had to replace with trouble over the axles. I have not got to the that phase yet as I'm just taking it off at this point but can see where you have to be double jointed to get around the wheels.

Now to coroplast. The membrane the manufacturer puts on is a 2mm corrugated plastic which comes to them in rolls. They will replace at a cost of $3000, Canadian $ or sell it for $13 a running foot. The name they use for the membrane may vary but it is the same as coroplast.

My supplier, Liard Plastic and Pal Plastic, here in Winnipeg advised the 2mm is specially made for trailer manufacturers in 78000 (?) sq ft rolls and do not sell in smaller quantities. My suppliers sell 4mm and up in 4 X 8 sheets. This product is big in the outdoor sign industry and is very durable. Cost is between $14 - $28 a sheet depending on where you go.

I decided to go with the 4mm 4 x 8 sheets to making replacement easier or gaining access to certain areas. I will only be replacing to the front of the back axle as that area is not broken up, yet. That area will be difficult as the black and gray water valves come thru it at an angle which will require some fancy cutting. I'm also adding 1.5 X 1.5 angle for support and overlapping the ends of the sheets towards the back, then screw and Gorilla tape it.

As anyone replaced the full or partial underbelly? What do you do with the mess of wires and broken vents that are hanging all over the place.

Any answers.
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Old 06-09-2019, 07:28 PM   #10
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Yakherder,
The factory coroplast seems like a fairly durable product, aside from needing a more support.. may I ask what happened to yours that it needs replacing?
I've never replaced any, I was pretty careful about pulling down only what was needed, so it ended up going back on the same way it was before. I didn't cut it anywhere.
I do have a few ideas/suggestions:
Keep the old stuff as intact as possible, so you can use it as a template, like for around the waste pipes.
I'm pretty convinced that the coroplast was installed with the RV upside down, or the wires and ducting would be all over the place. I would be doing a lot of securing of wires and ducting, and If it were me, I'd replace any flexible ducting with solid duct where it is exposed for you to do so.
If you don't to get that serious, perhaps just taping it in place.
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Old 06-09-2019, 07:51 PM   #11
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Underbelly looked to be in good shape last fall when I put it away but this spring when I went to de-winterize I noticed a piece of the underbelly hanging down. Upon inspection found that the most of it was split in various areas and needs replacing from the front to the front of the rear axle where the cross member is. I have to add additional cross members to accommodate the 4 X 8 sheets. I cannot butt join them as they will be too weak. I plan to over lap and use self tapping screws and fender washers to hold. Then Gorilla tape the seams to keep water out. The 4mm coroplast is stronger that what came with it from the factory but I was concerned where they over lap as this is now at 8mm and when screwed down what is the crush factor of the corrugation in the plastic. Will it be weaker at this point than the 2mm? I was advised that it wouldn't but the rep was not really all that sure.


I have heard that the trailer is made upside down as well. The coroplast belly goes on first and is caulked around the seam on the inside then the wires are strung but not put in a flex split tubing and secured to the side walls or cross members. When my underbelly gave way they all fell out on the ground. Some are 6 -7 feet longer than they need be. The wires and vent tubes are left to their own devices when your motoring down the road and bang around a lot and easily snagged on screws of other metal parts. I plan to use the flex tube on the wires and take your advice and use solid metal vent pipe and secure with All Round metal strapping.
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Old 06-10-2019, 06:24 AM   #12
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Some years back Eric did the underside of his cruiser with coroplast. He also posted a very nice write up while he was doing it. Along with a lot of pics. Here is a link to it.

http://www.crossroadsowners.com/foru...eath-1620.html
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Old 06-10-2019, 08:43 AM   #13
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Thanks Lloyd for the link. Now I have more areas to look at and more holes to plug. It was a great help.
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