More rookie purchase questions

[Kingfish58]

I've spend a few more weeks researching the purchase of my first travel trailer and have looked at several other units, but keep coming back to the Sunset Trail 270bh and the best combination of weight and features for me.
Problem is, the three closest dealers do not have it in stock. I been running searches daily, and one just came up priced right, with all the options I want, 550 miles away.

Questions:
1. Would you jump on this, or remain patient? Will it be 6 months before any units get within 100 miles of me (the three "local" dealers are still 80 to 100 miles away.)
2. They are offering an eaz-lift sway/weight hitch package and Kelsey Hayes brake control in the sales price, along with water and sewer hose , etc. Should I be happy with this hitch and brake controller or try to upgrade?
3. If I decide to buy, what is the best procedure-deposit over the phone contingent on inspection and successful Pre inspection? no payment at all until Pre inspection?

Thanks in advance!

[Chateau Duke To Go]

Here's my 2 cents. In full disclosure, I have a very low opinion of RV Dealers.

Warranty work at any dealer will most likely be a nightmare. There are a bunch of threads here about warranty work. Any Crossroads dealer (not just a sunset trail dealer or selling dealer) can do the warranty work. So that is not part of the pricing and purchase decision. Don't be afraid to travel. Buying locally is meaningless.

For any hitch work, consider doing it outside the purchase. For instance when I bought my 5'er the dealer wanted to put a crappy fifth wheel in my truck and severely overpriced me. I refused his suggestion and was able to get a higher grade hitch at another truck accessory store for one third the price of the crappy one the RV dealer was selling.

It's standard for them to "throw in" the battery, propane tanks, power cable and a starter kit. So, don't let them convince you they are doing you a favor. They are simply doing the minimum. Be aware the sewer hose and water hose will most likely be junk and you'll need to buy better ones anyway.

When making the deal, make sure you control the conversation. Insist they give you firm real numbers as opposed to the stale and crooked sales trick of "what do you want the payments to be". If you fall for that, they give you a huge interest rate and a really long term to get it down to the magic number. Take your own financing with you and you may be better off. It they provide financing be aware they are getting a kickback from the lender. Insist on getting your share of that rebate.

You will need to put some earnest money down but don't close the deal until you do a full and complete inspection. Insist on things being fixed before you take delivery.

Hope this helps. Buying the RV is the worst part of RVing but once you hit the road you'll love it

[Loneoak]

We purchased our unit more 500 miles away from home as we got a great deal on it. It took us 10 hours to drive there, so not sure of the miles but it was a lot. It was also out of the country.

The sales dept. was great. Our daughter ended up buying her unit at the same place - same distance pretty well. Their service dept. not so great. We ended up getting some warranty work done there, as part of a long trip we were taking, some in Florida while we were there, some at a dealer close to home and the majority at the factory when we went to the rally. The factory is the best place for service if you can swing it.

The internet is a great resource for prices.

Our daughter's RV is also a 270BH, but it's the fifth wheel model. When she bought hers, it was not one sitting on the lot but a new one they ordered in. She bought in January and took delivery in April, although they had it in before then.

Sometimes you can get a great deal at the end of the season because the dealers want them off the lot. I don't know if that counts in your neck of the woods as I don't think winter is an issue there. You guys probably can camp all year round.

[fhenn]

Deosit yes refundable upon PDI inspection, than full payment after you complete inspection. Brake controller is a good one do not know about the hitch set up. I would also tell them that you would like to pick out the water hose and sewer hose out of there store when you get their. that way you would be able to pick up an up grade.

[anaro]

Finding the exact trailer you want locally can be a bit of a challenge. You may 've able to get a firm low offer on this tt, take it to a local dealership with a good reputation and try to order one for close in price (allow for differences in features of what you order and the distance you would have driven). I think a good local dealership is worth its weight in gold, a bad local dealership will give you the worst headache and buttocks pain of your life! I have been very glad to have a great local dealership help me with my problems.

Lots of people swear by rv wholesalers. You can go through them to get the tt and get delivery included or make the drive to go get it. You will want a better hitch... Ask for reese dual cam, Reese strait line or equal-i-zer hitch. I am not familiar with that brand of brake controller but you will want to make sure you get a proportional bRake controller.

[Kingfish58]

Great advice all, thanks.

Chateau Duke, what is typical "earnest" money?

Lone Oak, you are right about the Louisiana season-it is year round and in fact, I'd rather camp here in February than July. I'm still unsure when the RV model season runs.
The quoted price on the unit is substantially below MSRP-more than 30%.

annaro, rv wholesalers didn't carry this unit.

[Chateau Duke To Go]

Earnest money or deposit will vary but it should not be more than a few hundred dollars.

[Lloyd]

Ernest money will vary, but you should be the one in control of the amount.
It's the same thing as when you make an offer to buy a house, they want you to put earnest money down to show your serious about going forward with the deal.
I don't think you get it back if you decide to not go through with the purchase. So what ever you do, don't get carried away with how much you plunk down for earnest money.

[OhioMark]

My two cents.

I too think good dealers are too few out there. When issues come up, I know I can call Crossroads direct. I've heard several reasons why the warranty process falls apart, My dealer said the reps are inept, Crossroads told me the dealers dont often follow-through.

Only my opinion here, but my observation after trolling the forums across the internet for the past 3-4 years. Buyers remorse is usually in the following order:
1. Floor plan
2. Bad dealer experience
3. Too big a trailer for the existing tow vehicle
4. Brand of trailer (Quality issues)

Figure out what you can tow first. I think most folks look at Sunset trails because of weight, they are the lightest trailer on the market. Than do your hitch/brake controller research, than find a dealer to accommodate your request (deposit contingency). Not sure if any dealer will bite on that. By the time you get to the PDI, the sale is already made.

The trailer is out there you want.

[sleepyT]

Kingfish
With the dealer being 550 miles away I would find out where the repair facilities in your area, if any, are and what kind of reputation they have as far as their service. IMHO

[Wantabe]

Have you check the three dealers to see what it would be to order one ?

[Kingfish58]

I have not checked with the local dealers to see if they can order, but I will. The one dealer I did visit has a used 270 w/o kitchen and other features that I want for the same price as the loaded unit 550 miles way. So I'm not optimistic they can match

[slouman]

Kingfish, check your private messages.

[Sam and Chris]

Originally Posted by Chateau Duke To Go

Here's my 2 cents. In full disclosure, I have a very low opinion of RV Dealers.

Warranty work at any dealer will most likely be a nightmare. There are a bunch of threads here about warranty work. Any Crossroads dealer (not just a sunset trail dealer or selling dealer) can do the warranty work. So that is not part of the pricing and purchase decision. Don't be afraid to travel. Buying locally is meaningless.

For any hitch work, consider doing it outside the purchase. For instance when I bought my 5'er the dealer wanted to put a crappy fifth wheel in my truck and severely overpriced me. I refused his suggestion and was able to get a higher grade hitch at another truck accessory store for one third the price of the crappy one the RV dealer was selling.

It's standard for them to "throw in" the battery, propane tanks, power cable and a starter kit. So, don't let them convince you they are doing you a favor. They are simply doing the minimum. Be aware the sewer hose and water hose will most likely be junk and you'll need to buy better ones anyway.

When making the deal, make sure you control the conversation. Insist they give you firm real numbers as opposed to the stale and crooked sales trick of "what do you want the payments to be". If you fall for that, they give you a huge interest rate and a really long term to get it down to the magic number. Take your own financing with you and you may be better off. It they provide financing be aware they are getting a kickback from the lender. Insist on getting your share of that rebate.

You will need to put some earnest money down but don't close the deal until you do a full and complete inspection. Insist on things being fixed before you take delivery.

Hope this helps. Buying the RV is the worst part of RVing but once you hit the road you'll love it

Hey John and Barbaree!
We are venturing into the 5th wheel market after towing TT's. Recently had a huge lesson in weight between manufacturer stated and the real scaled weight. Like the Cruiser Aire 28se and looks like the weight is around 8200 and change. Add a couple hundred extra for propane filled tanks, batteries. Getting ready to weigh our TV, a 2010 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD, gas, 3.73 ratio. Need to do some real number crunching after we get the loaded TV weight. I see you are pulling with a Ford 250 diesel. Can you or anyone else out there pass along suggestions, idea, or experiences that might help us out? Our TV GVWR is 16K. Also, any feeback on the Cruiser Aire's 28 models???
Thanks a bunch!
Sam and Chris

[Chateau Duke To Go]

Sam and Chris, you should be fine on the weight pulling with a 3/4 ton Chevy even if you add a bunch of stuff. You will find pulling a 5er is much easier.

We love our 28 RK because of the openess of the floor plan. It was very unusual at the time we were shopping. The kitchen in the back does require some careful packing though. We also like the table and chairs as opposed to the booth. It adds some versatility for us. All in all we love the RV. I'm fairly handy so have been able to avoid some of the service hassles at the dealers.

Hope this helps. BTW, where in VA are you? We lived in the DC area for a few years.

[anaro]

Originally Posted by Sam and Chris

Hey John and Barbaree!
We are venturing into the 5th wheel market after towing TT's. Recently had a huge lesson in weight between manufacturer stated and the real scaled weight. Like the Cruiser Aire 28se and looks like the weight is around 8200 and change. Add a couple hundred extra for propane filled tanks, batteries. Getting ready to weigh our TV, a 2010 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD, gas, 3.73 ratio. Need to do some real number crunching after we get the loaded TV weight. I see you are pulling with a Ford 250 diesel. Can you or anyone else out there pass along suggestions, idea, or experiences that might help us out? Our TV GVWR is 16K. Also, any feeback on the Cruiser Aire's 28 models???
Thanks a bunch!
Sam and Chris

I think you mean your max fiver tow is 16000 lbs. The truck gvwr is usually 10,000 lbs for a 2500 level truck, occasionally 11000 lbs. Get your loaded weights, subtract your scaled truck weight from your truck gcwr to get your adjusted towing capacity. Subtract your scaled weight from your truck gvwr to get your available payload. Subtract your scaled rear axle weight from max GAWR to see how much room is available on your axle. Likely your limiting number will be payload. Next you need to figure out loaded pin weight. If you know the weight of the gear you added to your tt then you can have a good starting point for what the fiver will weigh loaded (dry weight plus cargo =loaded weight). Ideally you want a pin weight of around 20% of loaded fiver weight but it could be as high as 25%. You should be able to tow a fiver but any he limited to a smaller lightweight one depending on your numbers. Only one way to really know.

[Sam and Chris]

Originally Posted by Chateau Duke To Go

Sam and Chris, you should be fine on the weight pulling with a 3/4 ton Chevy even if you add a bunch of stuff. You will find pulling a 5er is much easier.

We love our 28 RK because of the openess of the floor plan. It was very unusual at the time we were shopping. The kitchen in the back does require some careful packing though. We also like the table and chairs as opposed to the booth. It adds some versatility for us. All in all we love the RV. I'm fairly handy so have been able to avoid some of the service hassles at the dealers.

Hope this helps. BTW, where in VA are you? We lived in the DC area for a few years.

Hey friends!
Thank you so much for your input. Got our TV weighed today. Took that number, added cargo weight. Subtracted that from the Gross Combined Vehicle Weight of 16K and ended up with around 8200 and change to spend on the trailer. With a gas 2500HD, didn't want to push the max. Spent couple years huffing and puffing up hills with previous older 2500. SO..... that being said we decided the 28SE was too heavy. Maybe in years to come we can upgrade truck, but in meantime will focus on a "Real" light fiver. All is good and very grateful for the experience and other RVers experience.
We live in the Fredericksburg area, about 50 miles south of DC. Lived in Oakton and Fairfax in younger years. Glad I am not there now!
Blessings!
Chris and Sam

[mickeyndallas]

Be careful of Extended Service Agreements, at most they are useless!

[mark5w]

Originally Posted by mickeyndallas

Be careful of Extended Service Agreements, at most they are useless!

That may be your opinion, but not all feel that way. I would not be without one and know of many that feel the same way.
It's a popcorn topic.

[socoguy]

Recomendations? Are we allowed to discuss these plans here?