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Old 04-13-2012, 02:06 PM   #1
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First of all I'd like to say were very impressed with the Zingers interior, color options and layout and great everthough there a entry level unit they seem like a great value. Secondly we just bough a 2012 zinger 5th wheel. And thirdly our problem, we did research and were going to get a bumper pull(zh28BH new layout) but had issues getting the one in so we settled on a 5th wheel, now the bigger problem is we have a 2011 ram 3500 with 3" body lift on 34's (4" over stock lift)so our delema is how doesa guy go about putting a lift setup onto this zinger....the axels from factory are already flipped or installed below the springs for height, the suspension shop was going to soak us for $3k to cut off the old spring hangers and install frame spacer and reinstall hangers, well there should be an easier way like i was thinking of putting spacers between the springs and axels and possible larger tires, wondering if anyone else has attempted this? i am a journyman mechanic but looking for advice on which route to go with. Thanks in advance.
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Old 04-13-2012, 08:56 PM   #2
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It would be a lot easier to drop the truck back down and cheaper to.
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Old 04-14-2012, 01:29 AM   #3
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Im not sure about cheaper, body lift is $2200 and rims and rubber is $4000 so not necessary cheaper....
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Old 04-14-2012, 01:55 AM   #4
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I guess I wouldn't want to lift my 5er like you are talking about. For one thing it will look odd, like it's on stilts. I can understand you have spent a lot of money on your truck to lift it,but in my opinion, lifting the 5er like that isn't the answer. You will be creating more problems to deal with then you probably realize.



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Old 04-14-2012, 03:57 AM   #5
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WOW Do people really do this? I could see using lift blocks like in a suspension lift. Isnt the rear end a leaf spring set up? Could you just have some new springs made? The entire idea seems pretty sketchy to me. Wouldnt that make it pretty top heavy?
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Old 04-14-2012, 05:29 AM   #6
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well the idea is yes it would be a little top heavy but thats where the combo with 16in rims and LT tires helps, i was talking with my dealer and they did a large shockwave toyhauler for a 8" lifted chevy by making a subframe and reinstalling hangers. the units beenin use for 4 years nowwith not problems. i was considering 2in blocks for suspension in combo with 235 80r16 which would give roughly 3" height shouldent affect the topheavyness that much, besides majority of the weight is in the lowerpart of the trailer such as holding tanks and storage at floor height which counters the top heavy, lower thecentre of gravity the lesstop heavy the unit is and good footing as in tires makes all the diff. Does anyone know the bolt pattern for a zinger? 6x5 or 5.5 mabey?
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Old 04-14-2012, 11:14 AM   #7
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I did Google it and aparently this is not all that uncommon. There seems to be a lot of info on the diesiel forums about this. I read some real horror stories of people using blocks. I know nothing about 5er's but I have a question if you dont mind. If you have only a body lift doesnt the hitch mount to the frame? How does it do that with a body lift?Ive never been one to leave anything stock so I am very interested in seeing how this turns out! Good luck and be safe!
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Old 04-14-2012, 11:48 AM   #8
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yes 5er's do mount to theframe but in the case of a bodylift they use different brackets to mount to theframe, simply the brackets are 3" longer andthe hitch sits on the brackets,the box of a standard truck does not sit on the frame anyways, there is always a small gapbetween the box and rails to allow movement and prevent corrosion. usually the truck box sits 1/2 to 1" above the rails and only the mounts where the box boltsacutally are touching the frame and im some cases there are support tubing running side to side as well but not anchored. the box is not rated or anchored enough to take the weight or pull from the trailer. sure ford brags they can lift there truck off the ground with there box but thats sill only 6-7klbs load on the box, most trucks use 4-8 bolts to hold the box to the frame.
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Old 04-14-2012, 12:13 PM   #9
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Thanks! The truck part I totally understand I have been in the collision repair industry my entire life. Actually the company I work for is based out of Canada and has 10 locations in Alberta! Sorry anywayspretty coolabout all the lift brackets. I guess personaly I would play it safe and keep everything stock. Lift brackets for the hitch, lift on thetrailer seems like a lot of room for things to go wrong. I love lifted trucks and I have to say the photos of the lifted truck and trailer setup i seenlooked pretty sweet!
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Old 04-14-2012, 12:20 PM   #10
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speaking from experiance i dont really forsee a problem with the setup but was wondering if anyone had any experiance with it. the trailer is light enough that im not concerned with the brackets, there engineeredspecifically for the roller hitchbeing installed by a certified dealer. as for blockswell 1 or 2" spacers shouldent cause a problem but yes it would be better to play safe. people put blocks in rear axels for truck which areput through alot more torture, 8" lift blocks on a diesel with 500+ hp? if thats not causing alot of twist im not sure what will.
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Old 04-14-2012, 12:55 PM   #11
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Being new at this I'm always wanting to learn. Sorry I cant speak from experience on this but I would think lift blocks on the rear end of a truck go through life differently than the blocks on a tandem axle trailer. The range of motion on trailer axles is way different than that of a truck. 8" lift block on a 500+ hp diesel. Wheel hop much?
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Old 04-14-2012, 01:12 PM   #12
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actually not much wheel hop....to much spin :/, but when the wheels are under torque the tires want to turn forwad which causes the axel to want to turn backwards, now with 8" leverage from the wheels to springs is going to cause windup and cause your pinion to turn upwards thuse the springs have to absorb that twist upwards, now its not the springs to worry about its the ubolts holding everything together you have to worry about, ive seen ubolts snap from torque and weight preventing wheel slippage, a trailer on the other hand is alot different, the axels are being drug but the truck thus they want to twist forward, with blocks the twist will increase causing your equlizer linkage to want to twist causing the back of the front spring to go up and the front of the back springs to go down, but at the same time you have 3000lbs holding the springs strait the suspension itself will handle the blocks and twist, thats what its designed for, now as long as you dont plan on sinking it in the mud or skag and drag it through all should be well, the top heavy on the other hand is more of an issue but with the 5er holding it from swaying should be fine. now the other part of blocks is when the suspension "walks" the axels will do a caster motion much like your steering axel (axel tips forward and back)and depending on the camber angle (tire lean in and out at the top)of the trailer might cause premature tire wear due to change in angles while walking, but if the trailer tows level none of that should matter.
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