50 Amp Upgrade

[Choochooman74]

In my research for my next TT, I found that the Sunset Trail model that I am interested in, the ST270BH, could be upgraded to 50 amp service with wiring for a 2nd AC. Does anyone have this model or similar model that has this? Or has anyone who didn't get it have any regrets to not getting it?

[Dayle1]

I did a 50 amp conversion on my last unit, biggest expense was the 50 amp power cable. When I ordered the new unit, I included the 50 amp upgrade and 2nd a/c wiring, same thing you are considering. It is a big help if you are trying to run multiple appliances on 120V and/or running 2nd a/c. However, it would be nice if CR had more than just 2 breakers for the plugs (one front and one rear). My entire kitchen and LR is on a single 20 amp breaker, total 7 outlets.

FYI, the difference between 30 amp and 50 amp is bigger than many RVers realize because it is really 30 amps @ 120V vs. 100 amps @ 120V.

[OhioMark]

Originally Posted by Choochooman74

In my research for my next TT, I found that the Sunset Trail model that I am interested in, the ST270BH, could be upgraded to 50 amp service with wiring for a 2nd AC. Does anyone have this model or similar model that has this? Or has anyone who didn't get it have any regrets to not getting it?

We have a 300BH that was brought up from Texas that is wired 50 amp with wiring for second AC.

So, I'm almost certain that the wiring is walls for some of the circuits are upgraded. Only because we looked at two identical units on the lot, one 50 amp, the other 30. The dry weights were close to 150 lbs different.

With that said, I don't think you can "upgrade" without modding some of the in wall wiring.


Anyway, to answer your question, we picked the 50 amp not for the second ac option, but because we often find campgrounds where the 30 amp lines were saturated with trailers are not pushing enough juice. Had to shut off our AC on our old unit a couple times during July 4th, Memorial Day weekends at local campgrounds.

Also, we love the fact we can run the AC and microwave at at the same time without any issues.

[Choochooman74]

Thank you guys. I realize that I probably worded that wrong. I realize that the 'upgrade' is an option when ordering, and an option that I would like, even if I don't install a 2nd AC. Just being able to run the AC, Micro, HW on Electric, and brew coffee without flipping things on and off makes it worth it. If I do look used, when the time comes, I guess looking down south would be the best chance of finding one with the 50 amp upgrade option.

[stuckin4low]

Is there any way to visually check for the 2nd ac prep?

[4kids2dogs&RV]

We bought our Hill Country 32FR in May, 50 amp service w/ 2nd AC. Gotta have It here in the great state of Texas. I've run both AC units while watching TV in the living room while the kids played Xbox in the back room. Never a problem, definitely nice and worth it.
Better to have and not use than wish you had it.
I've even run both AC units while on a 30 amp, 7000 watt generator. Didn't flinch.
Go with your guy and don't settle, I think we talked about this in another thread last week.

[OhioMark]

Originally Posted by stuckin4low

Is there any way to visually check for the 2nd ac prep?

On Sunset Trails, you'll have 50 amp hookup and an outlet cover near the from bedroom ceiling vent.

[Dayle1]

Originally Posted by OhioMark

On Sunset Trails, you'll have 50 amp hookup and an outlet cover near the from bedroom ceiling vent.

You may also have the Dometic CCC2 thermostat and a small remote sensor mounted on the bedroom wall. Finally, if you remove the inside ceiling vent frame, you will find the small thermostat wires tucked along the side of the frame.

[jakesz28]

I have considered upgrading my unit to 50 amps. Hate tripping breakers while making coffee in the morning.

[socoguy]

Originally Posted by jakesz28

I have considered upgrading my unit to 50 amps. Hate tripping breakers while making coffee in the morning.

More to it than meets the eye. What else have you been running when making coffee?

[jakesz28]

I'm an electrical engineer, more industrial. But I don't think it would be that hard. The WFCO distribution panels are sold separately of the converter. So ordering the correct distribution panel and 50 amp cable. What makes it hard? Add a few more breakers to even out the load between both legs.

I use a ceramic heater in the cool weather to reduce propane usage and I want to add an electric element to the water heater. When paying to camp at an electric site the electricity is free and propane cost more. I thought about adding an electric fireplace for heat and losing the ceramic heater. We are looking at moving to a warmer climate which may end up requiring a second air conditioner.

[socoguy]

Originally Posted by jakesz28

I'm an electrical engineer, more industrial. But I don't think it would be that hard. The WFCO distribution panels are sold separately of the converter. So ordering the correct distribution panel and 50 amp cable. What makes it hard? Add a few more breakers to even out the load between both legs.

I use a ceramic heater in the cool weather to reduce propane usage and I want to add an electric element to the water heater. When paying to camp at an electric site the electricity is free and propane cost more. I thought about adding an electric fireplace for heat and losing the ceramic heater. We are looking at moving to a warmer climate which may end up requiring a second air conditioner.

Considering your background fine, I was addressing the average guy. Good for you go for it. You did not express all the details in your original post

[datasponge]

Hello,

We have an ST270BH with 30 amp. To answer one of your questions - we have had no issue with 30 amp. We've been able to keep the camper cool and use all appliances. Granted, it's been a fairly mild summer this year. But we have yet to be in a situation where we wished we had 50 amp capability. But who knows, maybe that day will be coming.

[OhioMark]

When I run an appliance ((toaster oven/air corn popper/ceramic heater/ice maker)with a considerable draw not already factory installed in the trailer (micro/AC), I use my old 30amp trailer extension cord and step it down to 15 amp connector and T it off with 6 outlet tap.

We run 50 amp in the trailer and every campground I've been to also has a working 30 amp connection with it on the post.

I've also considered a separate electric element in the water heater and have yet to pull the trigger. My design was more basic..hardwire a heavy gauge cord to the element and run it to the post in the 30 amp connection.

I am not an electrical engineer, but I did stay at a Holiday Inn Express last night...

[Dayle1]

Originally Posted by OhioMark

When I run an appliance ((toaster oven/air corn popper/ceramic heater/ice maker)with a considerable draw not already factory installed in the trailer (micro/AC), I use my old 30amp trailer extension cord and step it down to 15 amp connector and T it off with 6 outlet tap.

We run 50 amp in the trailer and every campground I've been to also has a working 30 amp connection with it on the post.

I've also considered a separate electric element in the water heater and have yet to pull the trigger. My design was more basic..hardwire a heavy gauge cord to the element and run it to the post in the 30 amp connection.

I am not an electrical engineer, but I did stay at a Holiday Inn Express last night...

Mark,
If the RV has 50 amp service, it really isn't necessary to use your old 30 amp cord as a separate power source. Unless you are trying to run too many high amperage items on a single circuit. Most onboard electrical items are on their own dedicated circuits so it is hard to overload those circuits. If you are trying to run say a coffee pot and an electric heater together, you may have a problem, but even then it may be possible to move one of them to a different outlet (i.e. different circuit).

Your 50 amp service is in reality 100 amps at 120V as there are no 240V items in the RV. So, you could run everything in the RV at the same time and not use the full 100 amps.

[OhioMark]

Originally Posted by Dayle1

Mark,
If the RV has 50 amp service, it really isn't necessary to use your old 30 amp cord as a separate power source. Unless you are trying to run too many high amperage items on a single circuit. Most onboard electrical items are on their own dedicated circuits so it is hard to overload those circuits. If you are trying to run say a coffee pot and an electric heater together, you may have a problem, but even then it may be possible to move one of them to a different outlet (i.e. different circuit).

Your 50 amp service is in reality 100 amps at 120V as there are no 240V items in the RV. So, you could run everything in the RV at the same time and not use the full 100 amps.

Yes, I understand and agree with your comment 100%. But I'm not so keen on cooking frozen pizzas in the toaster oven on my bed or on the toilet, but hey if someone else is cool with that, I don' judge!

Most of my appliances I run outside ..I try not to do any actual cooking in the trailer. I pop the breaker all the time if I run the coffee maker in the outside kitchen and toaster oven in the separate outlet on the side of the trailer.

[Dayle1]

Originally Posted by OhioMark

Yes, I understand and agree with your comment 100%. But I'm not so keen on cooking frozen pizzas in the toaster oven on my bed or on the toilet, but hey if someone else is cool with that, I don' judge!

Most of my appliances I run outside ..I try not to do any actual cooking in the trailer. I pop the breaker all the time if I run the coffee maker in the outside kitchen and toaster oven in the separate outlet on the side of the trailer.

Yeah, that is the problem. Generally there are only two circuits for the outlets, one for the bedroom/bath and one for the kitchen/living area. And the exterior outlet will be on one or the other.

[Tim D]

Originally Posted by OhioMark

Yes, I understand and agree with your comment 100%. But I'm not so keen on cooking frozen pizzas in the toaster oven on my bed or on the toilet, but hey if someone else is cool with that, I don' judge!

Most of my appliances I run outside ..I try not to do any actual cooking in the trailer. I pop the breaker all the time if I run the coffee maker in the outside kitchen and toaster oven in the separate outlet on the side of the trailer.

I bought a 20' 10/3 that you can plug into the 15/20 amp service. I use it when using the electric fryer etc outside. It has six outlets that can be reset if tripped. Works good.

[jakesz28]

I actually just stayed at a Fairfield Inn. Not sure how that rates? But when working in automation integration area of the industry and working with 300,000 volt linear supplies and 150,000 volt switcher supplies. Power distribution seams pretty straight forward.

There may be a hassle of splitting up circuits so you can run two devices in the kitchen. But like mentioned above. Going to fifty amps adds a lot more then it sounds like. I have stayed at campsites that only had a thirty amp service. So there could be cons too. I have seen the distribution panels for around $50 and the 50 cables are about $150. So if someone has the knowledge it is not to costly.

[Bert]

I ordered my 32BH with upgraded service. For what it would cost me to upgrade the panel and power cable it was worth it. Not to mention having the prewired AC. Also being able to run the water heater and the fireplace at the same time is nice.