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Old 06-03-2011, 07:19 AM   #1
Ruck
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Anyones take on leaking or stuck-open valves? Seems when I open to drain, there is waste in the drain outtake already. Of the two gray water valves, one seems to be pulled out about an inch or so and will not seat fully, having to try and catch the waste as I uncap the drain.
BTW what about the rally in Indiana, will there be a chance to bring up any issues with Crossroads, I'll ask the same in the proper forum, just thought while I was on ...
Thanks
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Old 06-03-2011, 01:53 PM   #2
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Maybe try using some coconut oil in the tanks. Sounds like the seals need some lube on them and the coconut oil will lube them up.



I had the same thing happening to my Cruiser and I put some coconut oil in the tanks and it fixed it. The valves shut nice and tight now.
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Old 06-04-2011, 05:55 AM   #3
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Cool, thanks fixit5561
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Old 06-04-2011, 07:37 AM   #4
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My Seville does that as well. I'd noticed that the handle would back out a little. I did lube the handles a little so I haven't checked since the last time. I generally tow with empty grey water tanks so I know it wasn't the black water tank leakiing.

I used mineral oil but may resort to the coconut oil (thanks for the tip, fixit5561). If that doesn't fix it, I'll sanitize the tanks and take it back to Topeka for them to figure out.
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Old 06-04-2011, 01:56 PM   #5
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Be careful with mineral oil. Depending on the type of rubber the seals are made of mineral oil can cause problems. EPDM seals don't like mineral oil. Learned this at our plant when contractor used with a mineral oil quench system for carbon steel.
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Old 06-04-2011, 02:20 PM   #6
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Oh good. Maybe the soap that went thru there will help that. I'll do the coconut oil instead. The intent was to coat the inside of the holding tank so stuff wouldn't stick to it. Hopefully, no damage as the tank got filled and dumped within a couple of days.

Thanks for the pointer.





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Old 06-07-2011, 01:20 AM   #7
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Checked beauty isle, health isle, and finally food area,found coconut oil, wondering how much to use, and if it will gum up the situation at all? Is almost solid at temps below 76 degrees. I reckon I would put in tanks through insidedrains? Thanks again. Also wondering if actually using the drains may solve the problem, doesn' t seem to be as big a problem lately ...
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Old 06-07-2011, 02:03 AM   #8
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I wouldnt use that oil you have found at the grocery store. The stuff I was talking about is sold by Thetford and Camco and is made for trailer tanks, either brand will work.



I dont know if that oil from the supermarketwill gum up your drains or not. I would get the coconut oil that is made for trailer tanks if it was me.



Edited by: fixit5561
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Old 06-07-2011, 02:20 AM   #9
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I'd seem the same thing with coconut oil since we cook with it (paleo diet). I've had holding tank problems with other campers (bought used and not taken real good care of) so I had to figure out some way to get them cleared out. I wanted to start this new camper out right and not have to worry about stuff sticking to the sides of the tanks. I came across the mineral oil add in some other camper forum (can't remember where) so that's why I used it.

I do use the GEO method (http://thegeomethod.blogspot.com/ & http://sites.google.com/site/cbruni/) along with the occasional use of QUAT-10 disenfectant. QUAT-10 is a quatenary ammonia dilution made for hospital disinfection & sanitization. Not corrosive like bleach, definitely cheaper than MicrobanPro. Not that I advocate it as bleach is cheaper by far ($2/gal vs. $14/gal) but it will do away with any bacteria (good or bad).

Ruck, I think you're onto something about exercising the drains as I notice mine aren't as hard as they were initially.

I've got another question on holding tanks but maybe will start another thread on that. The question is how to handle long term (2-3 months) on full hookups.






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Old 06-07-2011, 02:23 AM   #10
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Brian, I'm headed to Camping World this am so I'll get some of the stuff made for holding tank valves there and add it. A little prevention won't hurt at this point.





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