Valve Drain Question

brian-nicola · 10-11-2010, 09:59 AM

Hi,

In the utility cabinet there are four valves. I figured out the two bottom ones are for the hot/cold low point drains, but what is a "Heater ByPass" and "EZ Winterize"?

Also, I can't for the life of me figure out the drain on the FWT, I can only get it to turn about 1/4 turn?

Thx

Flyone · 11-03-2010, 05:11 AM

Brian, The heater by pass is a valve which will close off the fresh water supply to the water heater. It is primarely used for "by-passing" the water heater when winterizing the water lines. The EZ winterize (I don't have a Seville, so I'm kind of guessing here) is the port where one would put in the "RV" antifreeze. Which is why you would want to by-pass the water heater. If you do not by the WH you would fill it up with antifreeze, thus puting in much more than you would need to and next spring would have to flush it out several times to get all of the AF out.

The FWT (Fresh Water Tank) may be a 1/4 turn ball valve? (I don't know, again just guessing) When you open it does your fwt empty? If so, good deal don't worry about it, if not you may need to take it in to have a pro take a look at it.

PS A dealer willwinterize it for you for a small fee.

Flyone

brian-nicola · 11-03-2010, 07:30 AM

Thank You!

calliopeguy · 11-03-2010, 09:36 AM

I have a Kingston which has about the same setup and the EZ Winterize valve it to turn the intake on the pump from the fresh water tank to the Anti-freeze intake port

WoodcarvingGypsy · 11-04-2010, 02:25 AM

Brian, don't forget the water filter inside the basement. You'll need to take the plastic cover inside loose to get to it which means that you'll get to crawl inside to get there. I bypassed my filter with a 6" piece of 1/2" pipe for the winter. At that point, you'll see all the hoses around inside. The water heater has a bypass outside and one inside, I haven't quite figured out how all that stuff works yet. There is an interesting valve on the upper port of the water heater that is a bit of a puzzle.

If yours has the ice maker in the fridge, don't forget to drain that and to check the connection point under the road side of the camper. Good point for a freeze problem as it's a brass fitting and and needs to be drained.

Ken is right on the EZ WInterize valve as it does switch the antifreeze port into the pump.

oldman · 11-06-2010, 11:25 PM

Winterizing a Seville the first time is a BICH !!! The instructions suck.
Open the panel inside basement by removing two screws and swinging panel back (mine has stayed that way this year). Run water pump to remove all water from main tank, after also removing cap from hang-down drain tube in back by rear jacks, drivers side. Pour 4 gallons of RV antifreeze into clean 5 gallon bucket. Drain hot water tank by removing plastic drain plug on tank, and open over-pressure pop-off valve by tipping lever up. Crawl inside and trurn yellow valve on hot water heater 1/4 turn. outside install hose from anti-freeze port into bottom of 5 gallon bucket. Go inside, turn pump on, turn both hot water heater switches off and tape off with strip of duct tape (leaving them on will destroy your water heater). Take gallon container to front by washer hose hookups, put container over hot valve spigot, turn valve on slowly until "pink stuff" flows out, stop, close valve, repeat on cold water spigot, go to shower, remove shower head from hose, put hose end in container, repeat hot and cold water valves, with cup do same at bathroom sink, go to kitchen and repeat with hot and cold settings on kitchen sink, turn on icemaker until you get pink ice-cubes (slight tinge of pink as "pink stuff" will not freeze). Now go out and verify you still have enough "pink Stuff" in your 5 gallon bucket. In shower run "pink stuff" down shower drain to ensure sump will not freeze. Repeat in bathroom sink. Repeat in kitchen sink on both sides. Outside put 1 gallon bottle with hose into bottom into water valve area, close door. You are done! Remember to turn pump off.

Now what did I forget ????????????????????????

GaPete · 11-07-2010, 12:09 AM

Excellent post oldman! I had forgotten about the washer hookup! Dont have one but there could be water in the line.

WoodcarvingGypsy · 11-07-2010, 07:20 AM

Oldman, thanks for your post.

Don't forget the trap for the washer hookup in the front closet. There was some liquid in that trap when I poured the antifreeze down the pipe so I have to assume it was water.

I did have water in the washer hookup even though the valve was never opened. I tried to do the low point drain first but obviously it all didn't drain down.

Did you have any interesting anomalies when you did the water heater bypass in the utilities closet? When I had that on bypass, nothing would go into the hot water lines. With it switched back, the hot water side is very slow in flowing. There is some sort of interesting valve on the top port of the water heater that the local camper guys think is a check valve. I'm going to Topeka tomorrow so I'll have to ask Randy or the parts guys and see what it is.

I blew the line from the valve to the icemaker out (compressed air in a can is your friend) and pulled the line from the valve to the water system and drained it. Did you figure a way to trigger the water valve for the icemaker or is your fridge still on and running?

I agree with the instructions in the owners manual, or maybe the lack of instructions being a problem. It could be a bit better. The forum may be better than any owners manual.

lenny · 11-07-2010, 09:23 AM

I also like to run pinkstuff through the lines to the toilet.

oldman · 11-07-2010, 12:13 PM

Forgot to say something about washer trap and toilet, add those to the list also.
And pour an extra gallon or two into black water tank to keep any solids not flushed out, soft or liquid.
The valve on the water heater is the infamous hot-water mixing valve. Play with the yellow valve to allow pink stuff to flow thru mixing valve to hot water lines.

Now what else did I miss. OH yes, take the water filter out before winterizing system. Replace with new in Spring.

Anything else??????????????

WoodcarvingGypsy · 11-08-2010, 09:49 AM

Doug, is the hot water mixing valve the gizmo that causes low flow issues as well? If so, then I see a mod coming in the spring.

oldman · 11-10-2010, 10:53 AM

As I understand it - it is advertised and sold as a 16 gallon water heater that actually only holds 10 gallons. The mixing valve meters in cold water to water heater in manner that simulates up to 16 gallons of hot water for usage - hard to explain - but usually woks fine.
Low flow is limitation of water pump and line restrictors in shower. Unscrew hose from valve body - look inside both ends - some where there is only a 1/8" dia hole. If you want to try to enlarge it, that is your choice, but do you have the pump capacity and water storage to support it?

WoodcarvingGypsy · 11-11-2010, 01:27 AM

Doug, I will check it when we get it back from Randy next week. The low flow was on city water (Camp Lakewood in Effingham, IL) so I have to believe that your estimation of the 1/8" hole may be the case.

At any rate, I'm getting a new pressure regulator for next season. The one I was using is maybe 10 years old or older so a new brass one is in order. Once that is inline, then I'l start chasing down the other restrictions when we flush the rig in the spring.

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