Slide Repairs

[RVCRUISER34]

I've some other post from members having slide problems, this has been my experience.
I replaced the rear slide mechanism on my 2013 30' Cruiser Aire. It had Jumped the lower track and was angled down slightly. Second time this happened, it Scraped and peeled an area of the vinyl floor up. First repair, was done at the factory service center in Indiana. They found the slide out box, to be out of square by 1/4' and built up the one track. Second time it happened, you could see the track was damaged, It was easier and seemed cheaper to just order the whole slide out mechanism form Lippert. For both sides, with everything new, after removing the old slide, just needed to plug the motor in, screw and caulk the new one in. The old slide came out pretty easy, with jacking the slide up even. I believe both sides were a total of $650 plus the shipping.
From the reading I had done, it seems the Schwintech system works fine in lighter weigh slide applications. I had a heavy couch/fold out bed,located in the side of the problem slide. I took the couch out, it was pretty heavy, had to take it apart, to get it our. Seems like the weight of the couch may have put too much strain, on the slide mechanism, while bouncing around on the road. I'll probably replace it with a light weight Futon for now.
Haven't been back on the road since, I removed the couch, hopefully it solves the problem. I could see where the weight of the couch bouncing around, could put a strain on the tracks. I haven't needed to replace the front slide so far.
Just my 2 cents worth from what I found.

[Jtoot123]

Yup have 2013 cruiser air, last fall 2019 the slide for living center coach, broke. It took 2 men and a took to get the slide out in, then 1600$ to get fixed , hope it works have note tried yet

[RVCRUISER34]

Did yours have the sleeper couch towards the back side? I figured the couch bouncing around, wasn't good for the track.

[Oliver]

I just repaired the float side (right hand side when looking at slide from out side) of my Schwintek slide. What I found was our friends at assembly ran the 1 1/4" self tapping screw that holds the bulb seal in place into the bottom bearing block rendering it useless for float. It is my understanding that the float side compensates for the stack up of tolerances of the slide box itself and the frame built into the side of the RV. I also found that the fiberglass siding protruded about 1/8" past the aluminum frame stud not allowing the H column to fit flush with the stud, plus taking up some of the tolerance. I had to trim the siding flush with the stud. This is my living room slide (12') and it now works so much smoother. In my case it was not a Schwintek problem but an assembly issue. Two new bearing blocks and two new gear racks, H column and gibs were fine.

[backcountrycamp]

This is my second Schwintek across two camper manufacturers. Both times I've seen the same thing. The Schwintek was a victim, not a culprit. It's overly sensitive to manufacturing tolerances and quality in the slide rooms themselves, and sadly those are just notoriously bad in the industry. We have to re-sync ours nearly every trip at this point. I'm shocked it still works at all.

[TerryH]

I would HOPE that the gear drive SLIDE (vs hydraulic) have sturdy STEEL structure, but have read of some w/ trailers where structure is WOOD and thus subject to WATER ROT DAMAGE, then slide gets OUT of alignment? BUT I cud be wrong? Mine, hydraulic slide Class-C has steel mechanisms, 20yo, had to do slight adjustment to forward/back/high/low to repair vertical wiper seal, but suspect was HUMAN error vs structure/water failure ?