Stabilizer Switch Weatherproofing
Changed the stabilizer switch location and placed it and the new fuses inside a couple of "pelican" style cases found at our CTC (Canadian Tire Corp, for non-Kanucks). Haven't placed some silicone sealant on the wire holes yet, but that's next. Reduced some of the wiring also, since the fuse and switch are closer, so you loose a pigtail connection. Re-did some of the crimp connectors also. Hopefully the pictures are clear. I connected the boxes to the I-beam with a bendable, but stiff, aluminum flat that is sized to fit through the handles of the box. You can figure out the lengths and bends to make the box fit snug up against the beam. If I find they "bounce" around too much, will glue some foam to the lid to stop it. I know it could be neater, but was wanting waterproofing first, so didn't want to have any more holes than needed. One hole for wires, and once sealed, the front rubber gasket will do the rest on the door.
Those are new switches, missing the labels, but cost over half the price of exact replacements from the dealer. Not going to use them much, since I find that they really don't "stabilize" the trailer at all. You can tell when someone is walking around the living room when sleeping. Purchased some 2.5 ton scissor jacks on sale that will lift the trailer and stop it from bouncing on the axle leaf springs.
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Long Time RV'r
First time Crossroads
ST32RL with 2500 Chevy Express
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