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Old 07-18-2019, 02:48 PM   #21
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Valtera makes a twist-on 3" valve that you can use in place of the stuck valve. I use one as a safety valve.


One time, long ago, I took off the cap to my tanks in order to connect my sewer hose and got a bath because of a leaking black valve. Once was enough for me.....Never again!!! Every rig I have owned since then, gets a twist-on 3" safety valve immediately!!!!
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Old 07-20-2019, 09:12 PM   #22
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Gate is in and working

New Black Tank Gate Installed and I learned a few things.

1. You need space between the LaSalle Bristol fittings to be able to install the gate and seals properly. Cutting ¾” gap from the 3” ABS pipe supplied the extra space needed.
2. I found that the loud snap that I heard while first removing the gate was a solvent weld pool that flowed through the fixture. Crossroads must have pushed the gate through the still wet solvent. The extra room was needed to carefully cut the hardened solvent away before installing the new gate.
3. The longest LaSalle Bristol Gate that I could find was 72” so that’s what I installed BUT the cable that I removed was longer. Sure enough, after the installation I found that they do manufacture a longer unit but few suppliers list it! I rerouted the new cable differently than the factory and It actuates very easily.
4. I learned from STAN about Mission Couplings and it was exactly what I needed to use for this project. Thank You Stan.
5. I was shocked to learn that the Grey Tanks must be insulated while the black tank is not.
6. The actuator works very easily; there are no leaks and it is a positive shut off, no dripping.
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Old 07-29-2019, 07:20 AM   #23
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True Confessions

Thanks you for the helpful suggestions.

Now that the new Gate and Cable Actuator are installed and working smoothly and have examined the old parts; I have a confession to make.

Over the years I had made a big mistake by lubricating the cables with graphite (Lock-Ease). Last week I disconnected the actuator from the gate and found that the Actuator was frozen in place. After I freed and removed the cable from the sheath I washed out the graphite with WD-40 and now the actuator works smoothly.

Looking back I may have gotten away with just fixing or replacing the actuator and left the gate valve alone.
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Old 11-09-2019, 07:54 AM   #24
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Kamper Dave, My grey (2) tank and black tank valves are housed inside the driver's side storage compartment. All 3 valves are hard to open and close. The handles are on rods. Are the rods connected directly to the valves or are there wires as well? Also is it really difficult to drop the underbelly? Thanks in advance.
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Old 11-09-2019, 02:30 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by jayreinig View Post
Kamper Dave, My grey (2) tank and black tank valves are housed inside the driver's side storage compartment. All 3 valves are hard to open and close. The handles are on rods. Are the rods connected directly to the valves or are there wires as well? Also is it really difficult to drop the underbelly? Thanks in advance.
Hello Jay,

I may have lubricated those cables with the wrong lub.

I have dropped the belly liner several times and have had no difficulties. During my first experience I moved the propane pipe out of the way. I also cleaned the edge of the liner and placed a strip of Gorilla Tape along it and then heated it with a hair dryer. I did this to beef up the liner material and to keep out road spray. WARNING the Gorilla Tape is permanent; the belly liner material will de-laminate before the Gorilla Tape lets loose.
Once you have the liner down it’s a good time to clean out all of construction waste left behind and also enclose the wiring in loom and zip-tie it so that the wires can’t be worn through by resting on the steel cross members.

I just went out to the garage and took a few photos of the cable to show how it works to actuate the white colored gate. All three of those tank handles have been hard to actuate from day one BUT the black water handle became more difficult year by year until one day it froze in place.
I ordered a new assembly, dropped the belly liner and took on the unpleasant task of replacing the sandwich gate valve complete with wire/sheath and handle. I found that I could not spread the pipe flanges far enough apart to free the sandwich gate. So, I ended up cutting out a small section of pipe that later needed a fitting. Also from the original construction there was a great deal of excess and hardened pvc solvent holding the sandwiched gate assemble in place. Hence, the big snap while I pried it free.
So, after I installed the new assembly I took time to totally disassemble and examine the old assembly. I was surprised how easy the gate worked (not perfectly but smooth) it was the wire that was frozen inside of the cable. With great difficulty I pulled the wire out of the sheath and cleaned the wire and sheath with WD-40. Once the entire actuator was reassembled it worked very easily.
SO, WHAT WAS THE CAUSE OF THE FROZEN WIRE INSIDE OF THE SHEATH? I am pretty sure it was my use of “Lock-Ease” lubricant containing graphite on the wire/ sheath assembly. Because when I flushed out the sheath with WD-40 what washed out was lot of grey that I assume was graphite. From now on I will use light machine oil that should not gum up with time.

It is possible but difficult to remove the wire/sheath from the gate but getting to all three of those gates would be very difficult.
Best of Luck.
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Old 11-09-2019, 02:40 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kamper Dave View Post
Hello Jay,

I may have lubricated those cables with the wrong lub.

I have dropped the belly liner several times and have had no difficulties. During my first experience I moved the propane pipe out of the way. I also cleaned the edge of the liner and placed a strip of Gorilla Tape along it and then heated it with a hair dryer. I did this to beef up the liner material and to keep out road spray. WARNING the Gorilla Tape is permanent; the belly liner material will de-laminate before the Gorilla Tape lets loose.
Once you have the liner down it’s a good time to clean out all of construction waste left behind and also enclose the wiring in loom and zip-tie it so that the wires can’t be worn through by resting on the steel cross members.

I just went out to the garage and took a few photos of the cable to show how it works to actuate the white colored gate. All three of those tank handles have been hard to actuate from day one BUT the black water handle became more difficult year by year until one day it froze in place.
I ordered a new assembly, dropped the belly liner and took on the unpleasant task of replacing the sandwich gate valve complete with wire/sheath and handle. I found that I could not spread the pipe flanges far enough apart to free the sandwich gate. So, I ended up cutting out a small section of pipe that later needed a fitting. Also from the original construction there was a great deal of excess and hardened pvc solvent holding the sandwiched gate assemble in place. Hence, the big snap while I pried it free.
So, after I installed the new assembly I took time to totally disassemble and examine the old assembly. I was surprised how easy the gate worked (not perfectly but smooth) it was the wire that was frozen inside of the cable. With great difficulty I pulled the wire out of the sheath and cleaned the wire and sheath with WD-40. Once the entire actuator was reassembled it worked very easily.
SO, WHAT WAS THE CAUSE OF THE FROZEN WIRE INSIDE OF THE SHEATH? I am pretty sure it was my use of “Lock-Ease” lubricant containing graphite on the wire/ sheath assembly. Because when I flushed out the sheath with WD-40 what washed out was lot of grey that I assume was graphite. From now on I will use light machine oil that should not gum up with time.

It is possible but difficult to remove the wire/sheath from the gate but getting to all three of those gates would be very difficult.
Best of Luck.
Personally wouldn't use any oil or grease, nothing that dirt/dust can stick to, like regular WD40 it's a dirt magnet.
I've used a silicone spray on my last 3 RVs on anything/everything that needs lubed, dirt/dust won't stick to it.
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Old 11-09-2019, 03:09 PM   #27
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THANKS for the detailed description!

Thanks for the detailed reply Dave! I appreciate it it. I am going to try to silicone the mechanisms first but will follow your guidance if that doesn't work. Having the levers in the storage area looks good but maintenance is a major pain in the neck!


Quote:
Originally Posted by Kamper Dave View Post
Hello Jay,

I may have lubricated those cables with the wrong lub.

I have dropped the belly liner several times and have had no difficulties. During my first experience I moved the propane pipe out of the way. I also cleaned the edge of the liner and placed a strip of Gorilla Tape along it and then heated it with a hair dryer. I did this to beef up the liner material and to keep out road spray. WARNING the Gorilla Tape is permanent; the belly liner material will de-laminate before the Gorilla Tape lets loose.
Once you have the liner down it’s a good time to clean out all of construction waste left behind and also enclose the wiring in loom and zip-tie it so that the wires can’t be worn through by resting on the steel cross members.

I just went out to the garage and took a few photos of the cable to show how it works to actuate the white colored gate. All three of those tank handles have been hard to actuate from day one BUT the black water handle became more difficult year by year until one day it froze in place.
I ordered a new assembly, dropped the belly liner and took on the unpleasant task of replacing the sandwich gate valve complete with wire/sheath and handle. I found that I could not spread the pipe flanges far enough apart to free the sandwich gate. So, I ended up cutting out a small section of pipe that later needed a fitting. Also from the original construction there was a great deal of excess and hardened pvc solvent holding the sandwiched gate assemble in place. Hence, the big snap while I pried it free.
So, after I installed the new assembly I took time to totally disassemble and examine the old assembly. I was surprised how easy the gate worked (not perfectly but smooth) it was the wire that was frozen inside of the cable. With great difficulty I pulled the wire out of the sheath and cleaned the wire and sheath with WD-40. Once the entire actuator was reassembled it worked very easily.
SO, WHAT WAS THE CAUSE OF THE FROZEN WIRE INSIDE OF THE SHEATH? I am pretty sure it was my use of “Lock-Ease” lubricant containing graphite on the wire/ sheath assembly. Because when I flushed out the sheath with WD-40 what washed out was lot of grey that I assume was graphite. From now on I will use light machine oil that should not gum up with time.

It is possible but difficult to remove the wire/sheath from the gate but getting to all three of those gates would be very difficult.
Best of Luck.
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Old 11-09-2019, 05:30 PM   #28
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Ditto to travelin texans,
Silicone spray for everything that might get gummed up with dust, moisture, etc. And that's pretty much everything that's exposed to the elements.
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Old 11-09-2019, 06:35 PM   #29
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Dave, you do a great job with your write ups. Always a good explanation of what, where, when, and how. Most always accompanied with pics. Keep up the good work.
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Old 11-10-2019, 07:57 AM   #30
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Thanks All Of You

Thanks for the silicone input guys. I hope I can get access to the mechanisms to apply the silicone to the mechanisms. Then maybe I won't need to replace everything associated with the 2 gray and 1 black gates. While Crossroads made a cosmetically nice looking set up by putting the valve handles inside the storage compartments they made maintenance a bit of a nightmare.
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Old 11-10-2019, 11:06 AM   #31
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Warning

Quote:
Originally Posted by jayreinig View Post
Thanks for the silicone input guys. I hope I can get access to the mechanisms to apply the silicone to the mechanisms. Then maybe I won't need to replace everything associated with the 2 gray and 1 black gates. While Crossroads made a cosmetically nice looking set up by putting the valve handles inside the storage compartments they made maintenance a bit of a nightmare.
SILICON SPRAY: I agree with it's use on metals and not collecting as much dust but be careful as some plastics react badly to silicon spray. I've had black plastics fall to pieces after a silicon application. The spray propellant may be the cause. (?) I personally would not spray silicon on the black plastic actuator valves.

I do use silicon paste from a tube on the metal stabilizers; it is manufactured to lubricate vacuum furnace seals. It is slick.
I've never had a problem using liquid silicon although once spilled it is almost impossible to clean up it is “slicker than snot on a bull's nose”. Original used as a high temperature heat transfer medium and probably unlawful for use in California.
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Old 11-11-2019, 03:56 PM   #32
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Here is a tip to try, not convenient if the valves are enclosed.
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Old 10-10-2020, 01:56 PM   #33
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Black Tank Valve

I realize this is an older thread. Kamper Dave did an excellent job of detailing how he replaced the valve. Then later realized that maybe it was not necessary. I learned from this. After getting access to the valve, I loosened the 4 bolts that hold the valve in line. After getting the housing off the valve handle, (by gently rocking it back and forth, two tabs will come off the valve housing.) Then by turning the valve shaft, you can unscrew the cable connector from the valve shaft. I found that the valve would open and close very easily. I also found that the cable would open and close very easily. Some how, by attaching them together, it creates some sort of bind some where along the line. Put it all back together, it operates much easier. I went ahead and made a metal plate to replace the cheap wood paneling that the three valve cables goes through. I went ahead cleaned up the wiring array (mess) that lay on the belly cover and buttoned it back up. Note: It is easy enough to remove the belly cover by removing the holding trim that goes across the trailer (under the spare tire) and a few screws along both sides. This avoids cutting into the cover and having to patch it up. Hope this helps someone else with sticking valve issues.
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Old 10-10-2020, 04:24 PM   #34
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Originally Posted by gudde1251 View Post
I realize this is an older thread. Kamper Dave did an excellent job of detailing how he replaced the valve. Then later realized that maybe it was not necessary. I learned from this. After getting access to the valve, I loosened the 4 bolts that hold the valve in line. After getting the housing off the valve handle, (by gently rocking it back and forth, two tabs will come off the valve housing.) Then by turning the valve shaft, you can unscrew the cable connector from the valve shaft. I found that the valve would open and close very easily. I also found that the cable would open and close very easily. Some how, by attaching them together, it creates some sort of bind some where along the line. Put it all back together, it operates much easier. I went ahead and made a metal plate to replace the cheap wood paneling that the three valve cables goes through. I went ahead cleaned up the wiring array (mess) that lay on the belly cover and buttoned it back up. Note: It is easy enough to remove the belly cover by removing the holding trim that goes across the trailer (under the spare tire) and a few screws along both sides. This avoids cutting into the cover and having to patch it up. Hope this helps someone else with sticking valve issues.

On my 2010 Kingston, i ended up re-plumbing the discharge pipe and ran it on the surface, outside of the underbelly, just prior to the waste valve. It solved my problem of those problem cables.
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Old 10-10-2020, 08:04 PM   #35
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YES!

[QUOTE=gudde1251;145326]I realize this is an older thread. Kamper Dave did an excellent job of detailing how he replaced the valve. Then later realized that maybe it was not necessary. I learned from this. After getting access to the valve, I loosened the 4 bolts that hold the valve in line.

Gudde,
Glad it worked out well for you.
Just today I noticed the spare parts from that repair and almost pitched then in the trash.
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