Cruiser 27RL Winterizing Manual

[craigf]

I have a 2005 Cruiser 27RL. Is there a manual available out there that provides a step-by-step process for winterizing the Cruiser? I've picked up good bits and pieces from other posts, but want to be sure I don't miss anything.



As several posts have noted, the manual provided with the Cruiser is very general and not much use on this topic.



Thanks for any help!



Craigf

[Stan]

Don't know of any specific winterizing manual. There are lots ofgood articles and write-ups for general procedures. Do a Google search and check RV websites/magazines like Trailer Life.

[craigf]

Thanks Stan. Found a good procedure on-line.

[BipeFlier]

WINTERIZING YOUR CRUISER CF27RL CAMPER

1. <LI>Level the camper. Drain all tanks. You will need about 2 gal. of RV anti-freeze. Never use automotive type, it is POISION!</LI>
   
   <LI>Remove the interior wooden access doors for the pump (front of the cabinet between the rear chairs) and the water heater (door @ side at overhead stairs).</LI>
   
   <LI>Remove the plastic drain plug from the water heater (outside). Put it somewhere so you can find it next spring! I just leave mine lying in the bottom of the outside water heater compartment. Close the outside water heater access door.</LI>
   
   <LI>Pump OFF. Open the two low water drain valves (door side inside storage compartment)</LI>
   
   <LI>Open all faucets, outside shower, and toilet to allow water to drain back into the lines and out the drains.</LI>
   
   <LI>Use compressed air to blow into city water connection. Fitting is available at RV dealers.</LI>
   
   <LI>Turn water heater by-pass valves (near water heater) to by-pass the water heater. Bottom valve should now point "UP" and valve in the by-pass line should be "inline" with the pipe. This stops the water from going to the heater and allows it to return to the cold water side.</LI>
   
   <LI>Close the low water drain valves and all faucets.</LI>
   
   <LI>At the water pump, pull the hose that is connected on one end only out and turn the valve on it to be "in line" with the hose. Put the free end of the hose into a jug of anti-freeze.</LI>
   
   <LI>Turn the pump "ON" and make sure it is sucking the anti-freeze into the pump. It should take about a gallon before it shuts off. Turn on each faucet, hot and cold, until you see pink anti-freeze coming out and run about a cup full in each drain, then shut off. Do this in the following order.</LI>
   
   1. <LI>Outside shower.</LI>
      
      <LI>Toilet.</LI>
      
      <LI>Bath tub.</LI>
      
      <LI>Vanity sink.</LI>
      
      <LI>Kitchen sink.</LI>
   
   <LI>Shut pump "OFF", relieve pressure on water line and drain excess anti-freeze from winterization hose.</LI>
   
   <LI>Turn hose valve back to the original position, store hose.</LI>
   
   <LI>Put drain stoppers into drains to stop evaporation of anti-freeze from traps.</LI>
   
   <LI>Turn refrigerator "OFF", remove interior light bulb, and prop doors open.</LI>
   
   <LI>Turn gas off at bottles.</LI>
   
   <LI>Remove battery and store inside on wood. Never store a battery on concrete. Charge once a month or so during the winter.</LI>
   
   <LI>Put Bounty® dryer sheets in cabinet drawers, etc. to help eliminate mice. Putting a couple of containers of Decon® inside on the floor and in the storage compartment is also a good idea.</LI>
   
   <LI>Clean exterior and interior. Cover if desired. Close blinds to shade interior from sunlight if cover is not used.</LI>

[Korbe & Diana]

On my rig I have found that the line from the fresh water tank and the pump does not completely drain. So part of my winterizing includes running the pump AFTER draining the fresh water tank. I will open one interior faucet and run the pump, up to about 3 or 4 minutes, while it spits out water and more and more air until only air spits out.



I'm not sure if this water is just getting sucked up from the fresh water tank, because it doesn't completely drain, since the drain is located on the side, or if it is actually in the line.