Water Heater tank by-pass problem

dkr1946 · 12-07-2011, 01:22 AM

Please see the attached photo. I have that hot water tank in my Crossroads Cruiser FW. All has been well using the bypass valves to winterize with antifreeze. However, this summer a mechanic fixed a noise we had whenever we turned on the hot water. He said he removed "a broken piece of plastic". That was in Florida. A few days ago I attempted to winterize as I usually do with 3-4 gal of AF and turning the bypass valves. It became apparent the tank was filling even though the bypass valves were selected "On". So something is screwy. Took me about 8 gallons of slightly diluted AF to do the job! It doesn't get too cold here (Memphis) so I figure I'm okay. I will contact the mechanic when we go back to Florida in the spring, but until then just thought I'd pass this along.

Anyone know of any problem having the tank full of about 80% AF and 20% water? I'd not think any chemicals in there would hurt anything.

If anyone can verify the correct positioning of the bypass valves at the tank I would appreciate it, just to prove to myself I have NOT made an error!

PS - The photo has the valves in the normal, non-bypass position.

Edited by: dkr1946

Stan · 12-07-2011, 01:46 AM

First, I don't think having AF in the tank will hurt anything. You will however have to flush it ALOT to get it all out. Second, there are only two ways AF can get into the tank - if a valve is physically broken internally and is not turning inside. You should be able to see this when you fill the water lines with AF by watching when the pink color fills the lines. The other issue may be a defective checkvalve at the tank.

avvidclif · 12-07-2011, 02:36 AM

Does valve 2 have a handle. I can't see it. Which position?

dalemac377 · 12-07-2011, 03:33 AM

The upper line has a check valve that prevents the anti-freeze from going into the tank. Maybe that check valve is stuck open. We had one on our '07 that whistled when water flowed through it. Dealer replaced it.

jeffandaudrey · 12-07-2011, 03:42 AM

# 1 valve needs to be open , and # 2 needs to be closed,the water comes in the bottom,goes up and back into the system, the top of the tank has a check valve to prevent water from going in.

Flyone · 12-07-2011, 04:18 AM

Removed a broken piece of plastic, sounds odd to me. The only thing I can think of would (maybe) be the internals of a valve. What else would be a broken piece of plastic? If it wwere a fitting or the tube it would have been leaking like crazy. Sounds like maybe one of your valves is not functioning properly and the broken plastic was the internals of the valve--maybe the valve should have been replaced. That could explain the flow getting past it andinto the water heater too. Just a thought, migh have to check on it a little closer in the spring. Things should be good for now, a lot of people fill the fresh water tank with several gallons of AF and pump it thru the whole system including the WH to winterize.The entire system will need to be flushed out really good in the spring.

Flyone

dkr1946 · 12-07-2011, 04:50 AM

Yeah, I bet I do a LOT of flushing when we de-winterize! I'll just do that when we're connected to the sewer system at the RV park.

I believe you're correct and I probably have a valve that's broken. I'm not going to worry about it, but I will have that mechanic come out and look at it...and insist he repair the damage he did.

Unfortunately, I did not watch the water lines to/from the tank when I was winterizing because ordinarily I'm in the bathroom running water from the taps to ensure the pink stuff comes out. Took me a while to figure out something was wrong when it took so long for pink to show in the bathroom! Duh......

Doug

dkr1946 · 12-07-2011, 04:52 AM

Yes, two valves, but you can only see one in the photo. The other is below that one. In the picture the two valves were in the normal position. When I did the winterizing both valves were turned to the ByPass position, but they didn't bypass! <g>

dkr1946 · 12-07-2011, 04:54 AM

Thanks. I will suggest that to the mechanic this spring. I suspect that check valve might be what was making the noise before the mechanic fixed it....fixed the noise that is; apparently he disabled the check valve in the process.

dkr1946 · 12-07-2011, 05:00 AM

"..# 1 valve needs to be open , and # 2 needs to be closed..."

If memory serves that's how it was set when I winterized. After I took the photo in the original post, I drew an arrow telling how to turn the valve when winterizing, so that's not in the photo.
So if I understand correctly, and assuming the valves are again working correctly, to use the hot water tank in the regular, in season setting, the #1 valve would point as it does in the photo, and the #2 valve would be positioned to NOT send water to the #1 valve, right? It makes more sense when I can actually see the tank and its plumbing.

dkr1946 · 12-07-2011, 05:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Flyone

................ Things should be good for now, a lot of people fill the fresh water tank with several gallons of AF and pump it thru the whole system including the WH to winterize.The entire system will need to be flushed out really good in the spring.

Flyone

Yeah, I'll be pushing a lot of water through the plumbing come spring! <g> And your post above is pretty much how I winterized, except instead of drawing AF from the fresh water tank I drew it from MANY jugs of AF....what a PITA!

NH Horseman · 12-07-2011, 10:09 PM

Something sounds odd in some of the former posts. When you bypass the heater, water should flow from the bottom line, thru the vertical line with the valve, then out the top line to the right (in the picture) and thus bypass the tank. So, the valve at the bottom should be closed, the one in the vertical line should be open and the check valve should prevent anything going into the tank. If it were me, and I were worried about the mix of AF presently in the tank, I would ciphon the water and AF mixture out of the tank with a plastic hose for the winter. Then, I could sleep at night. I always ciphon out the bottom of the tank when winterizing anyway, even though I don't put AF in the tank. There is always water left in the bottom and most times it freezes without damage to the tank but, there is always that ONE TIME! It happened to a friend of mine after many years of no problems.

dkr1946 · 12-07-2011, 11:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NH Horseman

....When you bypass the heater, water should flow from the bottom line, thru the vertical line with the valve, then out the top line to the right (in the picture) and thus bypass the tank. So, the valve at the bottom should be closed, the one in the vertical line should be open and the check valve should prevent anything going into the tank......... I always ciphon out the bottom of the tank when winterizing anyway, even though I don't put AF in the tank. There is always water left in the bottom and most times it freezes without damage to the tank.......

I believe you are correct with your description of the valve arrangement. I didn't think anyone else meant it differently, just once or twice it was a little unclear if they (or me) were talking about in the bypass or the normal position. And I think the bottom valve (in my photo) is probably the defective one.

I'm fine with what I have now, which is a tank full of AF. And I cannot really siphon anything out, as I'm sure there is still a lot of pressure in the tank. Besides, it's not doing any harm I suppose. Roger that saying a little water is left in the tank even after draining it, but since it has room to expand (in the tank), I've never worried about that.....and of course we typically do not get the horribly low and prolonged temperatures many do....I'm just outside Memphis, TN. My largest concern with winterizing is that the toilet, which it's many valves and places to trap water, will have something POP over the winter, so I'm paranoid about flushing it enough to get LOTS of pink stuff into the bowl!

One thing I ought to do is return to the storage lot and put a gallon or so of 50/50 AF mix into the two gray tanks, and probably add a bit to the black tank. I don't like any tank being "dry" ever. I think that can cause problems.

Edited by: dkr1946

NH Horseman · 12-07-2011, 11:30 PM

Not sure why there is any pressure anywhere in your lines. The low point drains should have been opened after winterizing and that relieves all pressure. I'd drain the bottom of my water heater tank regardless but, you are right and NH has a bit colder temps than you. AF is a bit expensive for drains and waste tanks. Use windshield washer fluid, about half the price but in drains and waste tanks only. I don't need someone to remind me that I should not use windshield washer fluid in my clean water lines!! <grin>.

moparguy62 · 12-26-2011, 10:38 AM

Make a quick connect hose on the inlet side of your pump, this will bypass the fresh tank and take AF from the gallon. The Hot wtr tank should be drained first, then turn on your pump. If the handle it in line with the pipe that usually means its in the open position. The picture shows it closed not right for bypass. No the spring you should pour a cup or two of bleech in your fresh tank and fill it until it comes out (touchs top) let it sit a few hours then pump through the Rv let it sit again. This clean your pipes.

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