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Old 09-12-2013, 06:07 AM   #1
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We have a 2010 Crossroads Cruiser 30QBX. Due to circumstances, I was taking the storage tires off and putting the good tires on finally this summer. The threads on the wheel studs or inside the lugs nuts are starting to pull off.

The first one started to unscrew correctly, was almost to the end and the last 1/4 in. of threads pulled off. I had to hammer on it some and finally spun it enough it loosened up and the nut came off.

The 2nd one seized and I eventually broke the stud with a persuader.

There is a 3rd that I will be replacing over the weekend as it feels as if it is seizing up.

The studs and nuts were not rusty nor overly tightened. I put them on and torque by hand, not an air gun. This go round I put Never Seize on them. I have never seen wheel studs do this.
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Just letting you all know that there may be an issue with a batch of wheel studs. At the very least you should track down and acquire a couple spares of each of the studs and nuts and the means to change them. They are not hard to pop out of the brake drum if you have a punch and hammer, installation was pretty easy also.</span>
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Edited by: drcook
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psssttt drcook = David R, not Dr. but thanks for the compliment. Most folks just call me Dave.

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Old 09-12-2013, 06:35 AM   #2
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I was experiencing the same thing the last couple years. When I was pulling things apart to do the wheel bearings, the threads were pulling on both the studs and lug nuts. I eventually replaced them all and came to the conclusion I was over torquing them. (I use a torque wrench)
I use to torque to 90# (per dealer recommendation). I have since backed it off to 80#.
Nothing has fell off yet, and the next time I pull a wheel I will see what the threads are like.
I really believe I was over torquing them at 90#, but we'll see.
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Old 01-23-2017, 06:25 PM   #3
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I was experiencing the same thing the last couple years. When I was pulling things apart to do the wheel bearings, the threads were pulling on both the studs and lug nuts. I eventually replaced them all and came to the conclusion I was over torquing them. (I use a torque wrench)
I use to torque to 90# (per dealer recommendation). I have since backed it off to 80#.
Nothing has fell off yet, and the next time I pull a wheel I will see what the threads are like.
I really believe I was over torquing them at 90#, but we'll see.
Lloyd, do you have aluminum or steel wheels? I have aluminum and just had a wet bolt kit installed and the wheel bearings packed; I want to recheck the torque on all. What would you recommend for the lugs, u-bolts, wet bolts, and shackle bolts? thanks!

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Old 01-23-2017, 06:43 PM   #4
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I will check and let you know tomorrow what I torque to. I wrote it down in the front compartment because I knew I wouldn't remember it for sure.
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Old 01-24-2017, 11:28 AM   #5
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Monte, I have steel wheels and I torque to 80#. I don't know what the other guys torque their aluminum to. Maybe some of them will jump in here.
U-bolts 65#
As far as the shackles and wet bolts, don't they have lock nuts on them?
I don't think I have done anything with them since I installed them. You sure would want overly tight, they have to be able to move.


Here is some discussion.

http://www.crossroadsowners.com/foru...que-11462.html
http://www.crossroadsowners.com/foru...rque-8234.html
http://www.crossroadsowners.com/foru...rque-3399.html
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Old 01-24-2017, 10:11 PM   #6
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Thanks, Lloyd. The mechanic installed all new wet bolts and shackles, as well as new bolts and sleeves in the Equaflex. I think he said he torqued all them to 60#. As far as the nuts, all the parts came from Lippert and i didn't see them as I had them shipped directly to him. I know that there were NO nuts shipped for the Equalizer bolts, I'm not sure what he put on there. I'll have to check. He said he torqued all the lugs to 150#. I asked if any of the studs were bad/slipped and he said "no". We leave for a 4000 mile run on Saturday; I'm not sure if I should attempt to loosen the lugs and retorque. Suggestions?

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Old 01-24-2017, 10:17 PM   #7
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Thanks, Lloyd. The mechanic installed all new wet bolts and shackles, as well as new bolts and sleeves in the Equaflex. I think he said he torqued all them to 60#. As far as the nuts, all the parts came from Lippert and i didn't see them as I had them shipped directly to him. I know that there were NO nuts shipped for the Equalizer bolts, I'm not sure what he put on there. I'll have to check. He said he torqued all the lugs to 150#. I asked if any of the studs were bad/slipped and he said "no". We leave for a 4000 mile run on Saturday; I'm not sure if I should attempt to loosen the lugs and retorque. Suggestions?

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I hate to try to loosen them and break off the studs when we leave Saturday.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lloyd View Post
Monte, I have steel wheels and I torque to 80#. I don't know what the other guys torque their aluminum to. Maybe some of them will jump in here.
U-bolts 65#
As far as the shackles and wet bolts, don't they have lock nuts on them?
I don't think I have done anything with them since I installed them. You sure would want overly tight, they have to be able to move.


Here is some discussion.

http://www.crossroadsowners.com/foru...que-11462.html
http://www.crossroadsowners.com/foru...rque-8234.html
http://www.crossroadsowners.com/foru...rque-3399.html

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Old 01-25-2017, 06:31 AM   #8
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I think you should take a long handled breaker bar with you in case you have a flat tire.
Have a good trip with that new to you Cruiser. You've done a lot of preventive maintenance.
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Old 01-25-2017, 06:38 AM   #9
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Thanks for the advice! I do like to do preventive maintenance to keep some of the gremlins at bay

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Old 01-25-2017, 11:16 AM   #10
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I was taught on aluminum wheels to torque initially, drive 200+/-miles, loosen & retorque, then don't torque again til removed the next time. If you retorque be sure to loosen then torque. I know guys that at every stop they retorque, not necessary, after a while you pull threads or crush/deform the lug hole on an aluminum wheel.
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