This blows

[JetFuelBurner]

2007 Zinger 27BH

Used our new to us zinger last summer and fall without incident. We're in ga and it stays pretty warm. At hunt camp. I left the refer in lp gas mode then. Worked for weeks on end at hunt camp. Into storage for 2 months.

2 days ago the wife informs me we're going camping in TN. Cold. I get the rig to the house and plug into the 20A outlet. Heat works. Water sys de-winterized. Refer works. Good to go. We load up and head out. I get to TN and realize the refer ain't cold. Won't work on gas or electric. We're plugged into shore power with batts connected to the system. I realize we have no power to the master br, the inverter isn't humming as it should with a little load and no lights on the refer. Crap. On the right side of the elec panel are about 10 fuses. They're all 15A. 5th down is blown. It's marked appl. Appliances? Replaced fuse a bunch of times with various items turned off. No luck. Still blowing fuses. Had it totally powered down. As soon as I connect pwr...pop.. Keeps blowing. Did not do this at home. I've tried the 20A pwr. I've tried the 30A pwr. No luck. I can't figure out what the draw is. Water heater is offline both electric and gas. Water pump is off line as well. Both worked at the house. I can't reach any other sites shore pwr with my chords.

Any chance the circuit in question takes a 20A fuse?

I don't think my ships batts are charging.
Refer inop.
Master BR no pwr.
Tv works.
Heat works...for now.
Only 7 of the 15A fuse ports are marked. Guessing the other 3 are spares?
Electrical system info in the manual is useless. I have no idea which circuits are in use and which are in reserve.
No indication on the panel what amperage fuses to use except what's penciled in.
From what I gather...this is the DC pwr side of the panel. Other than that, I'm without a clue.

Anyone have any more detailed info on pwr distribution on this model?
Anyone have any ideas on load shedding to isolate the fault?
I'd really like to get the refer back online. Wouldn't mind the battery charger either!

[Stan]

It almost sounds like you have two issues. 120v power and 12v power losses. You might start with getting 120v power working. Check your gfi's and see if one is tripped (you have 2 or 3). Is a 120v breaker tripped? (Flip them all off and then back on). The fridge uses 12v and 120v. Do you have 120v measured at the fridge plug on the outside (inside the access panel). Do you have 12v to the fridge circuit board? It could also be a bad converter. Depending on your troubleshooting and electrical skills it may be take a trip to a RV center to find the issue.

[fhenn]

Might be a out side hook up problem those plugs in the pedestal are known to cause trouble

[Dayle1]

Fuses are for the 12V DC circuits and breakers are for the 120V AC circuits. Since you are blowing a fuse, sounds like a DC short. Now, if the converter is not working, then eventually the batteries will loose charge, lights will dim and all DC circuits will stop working including whatever is causing the short. So, maybe the converter is fine. While unlikely, you may have an AC problem as well, the converter typically shares an AC breaker with another circuit, maybe the bedroom outlets, so check all the AC breakers as well.

Just because the frig and/or water heater are off, does not mean they are actually disconnected, both have DC control boards connected thru the fuses to the battery/converter even when they are switched off, so one of those boards may be shorted. There is also a possibility that a 12V DC wire has come loose from one of the switches at the control panel and shorted or that a wire has rubbed and worn thru the insulation (especially the wires underneath the slide out for the DC lights and the AC outlet). Anyway, with the blown fuse removed, just check to see which DC circuits are OK, check all DC lights including outside lights, stove exhaust fan, water pump, TV amplifier, CO2 detector, radio, slide out motors, etc. Whatever is working is NOT the problem. Also, just to be complete, make sure the breakaway switch for the trailer brakes is still in place.

[JetFuelBurner]

The breakaway switch not being powered is what I'm worried about. We had the inverter online for a minute before the fuse blew again. You could hear it humming like its supposed to. The fridge operation indicator came on. Then pop. :-(

I just wish I had a decent schematic of the power distribution.

Gonna be 25 tonight in Chattanooga. Heats working good and thankfully so is the electric water heat. No light on the gas hot water though.

Guess we'll limp along til Monday and bring it into the shop.

I was just hoping someone knew of an online source for a pwr distribution schematic.

[Dayle1]

I wasn't saying that the breakaway switch receives it's power thru the fuse panel, it should be tied directly to the battery. Just trying to eliminate some parasitic current path. For clarification, is it the automotive style fuse that blows or the resettable circuit breaker? The converter should only shut off if it looses 120V AC power thru the circuit breaker and it will run very quiet until multiple DC lights, etc are turned on. If the converter is bad, then the battery will be drained pretty quickly. You can turn it off via the circuit breaker and then use a normal automotive battery charger to keep the battery fully charged and keep everything else operational. I've done that on several occasions with friend's rigs when their converters failed.

[anaro]

Sounds like battery is hooked up backwards. This blew 3 fuses for us... The inverter , radio and one other (can't remember what one.). We had power to front outlets. No power to back outlets. Tv worked. Radio did mot. It was simmer on myrtle beach so we were trying to use ac with no luck. Fridge did not work on electric or gas. Fixed the battery hook up ( hint black is positive on trailers) and then replaced fuses. All good now.