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Old 11-17-2013, 08:19 PM   #1
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Values by Hot Water Heater & Winterizing

Well I just completed wintering my 2014 Zinger 32QB TT. I hope I did it right. I ended up blowing out all the water lines, including the exterior shower via the city water connection and an air compressor.

I drained the H20 water heater and also blew it out w/ the air compressor by connecting it to the relief value.

I put RV antifreeze in all the traps as well as the toilet. I did NOT put antifreeze in the water lines as I blew it out w/ air compressor. Per the RV crossroads manual, that is one option to winterize.

One question I have though. There are 2 values by the hot water heater that are accesible via a panel in the bedroom. The one value is straight forward (close to bypass the hot water heater). There is also another value and blue and red lines connect to it. What is that for? Should that be open or closed when wintering / blowing out lines?

Any other comments on winterizing is greatly apprecitated.

BTW - mine didn't have the EZ winterizing hose attached which I was surprised as the manufacturer said newer ones have it. But didn't need it since I blew out the lines. Does anyone blow out the lines plus send antifreeze through the water lines?
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Old 11-17-2013, 08:29 PM   #2
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Blow and pink.
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Old 11-17-2013, 08:35 PM   #3
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Blow and pink.
Why do you do both?
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Old 11-17-2013, 08:50 PM   #4
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Double protection since I live on top of a windy mountain. NE PA.
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Old 11-17-2013, 08:54 PM   #5
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Do you know what the other value is?
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Old 11-17-2013, 09:24 PM   #6
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2 valve hot water bypass diagram.
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Old 11-17-2013, 09:29 PM   #7
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2 valve hot water bypass diagram.
Awesome diagram! Ok when blowing out the lines, I should close the cold water inlet value to bypass the water heater OR
close the cold water inlet value to bypass the water heater & open the bypass value.

Which one should I do and why? Thanks in advance!@
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Old 11-18-2013, 06:47 AM   #8
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Per diagram, close the cold water inlet and open the bypass valve - exact opposite to what is shown above (pic shows normal operation) and you want it to bypass the water heater after you have drained it. The one way check valve coming out of the hot side of the water heater prevents anything from flowing back into it when you bypass.

Blowing out your lines is an alternative to antifreeze but make sure your pump is dry. That is the hardest thing to winterize unless you suck some antifreeze through it - blowing it out may not get all the water out and you may be replacing a pump in the spring. You don't need to circulate pink completely through all lines as long as your pump is protected. Also, if you have a water filter, make sure you remove the filter and empty the canister of water and then screw the canister back on without the filter before and after you pump in any antifreeze. Most of these units don't come with in line water filters anymore, I know I had to add one to ours.
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Old 11-18-2013, 07:55 AM   #9
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A simple way to remember , both valves horizontal (work position) or both valves vertical (bypass position)
both valves ae always in sync with each other.
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Old 11-18-2013, 08:20 AM   #10
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Per diagram, close the cold water inlet and open the bypass valve - exact opposite to what is shown above (pic shows normal operation) and you want it to bypass the water heater after you have drained it. The one way check valve coming out of the hot side of the water heater prevents anything from flowing back into it when you bypass.

Blowing out your lines is an alternative to antifreeze but make sure your pump is dry. That is the hardest thing to winterize unless you suck some antifreeze through it - blowing it out may not get all the water out and you may be replacing a pump in the spring. You don't need to circulate pink completely through all lines as long as your pump is protected. Also, if you have a water filter, make sure you remove the filter and empty the canister of water and then screw the canister back on without the filter before and after you pump in any antifreeze. Most of these units don't come with in line water filters anymore, I know I had to add one to ours.
You answered my question! Owners manual states that if you have a little water left in the water tank it won't hurt anything. Furthermore it states to bypass it so you don't use an extra 6 gallons of RV antifreeze. Thanks both of you for your help!
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Old 11-18-2013, 05:19 PM   #11
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Raz,

looks like your question was answered, but figure extra info may help.

We have same trailer. If you feel behind the plywood in the compartment under the stove, you should have the EZ tube (I actually removed the plywood divider for easy access to tube and pump).

We drain, blow, then fill with antifreeze. This unit took 2.5 gallons at $2 each, so I figure it is worth the insurance for $6.

The panel under the drawers in the bedroom has 4 screws that give you access to the back of the water heater. If you do antifreeze, you will switch to bypass as noted in pics above.
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Old 11-18-2013, 10:46 PM   #12
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Hah! I'm glad I'm in Texas and don't have to do this.
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Old 11-19-2013, 08:40 AM   #13
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Thanks - now we'll probably have 19 degrees for 7 days after THAT comment
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Old 11-19-2013, 09:57 AM   #14
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Shane...I'd relocate if I could. I HATE winter.
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Old 11-19-2013, 12:00 PM   #15
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Hah! I'm glad I'm in Texas and don't have to do this.
Where are you in Texas? I saw an earlier comment about SH16 on another thread. If you are around Medina Lake, what is the level as I had read that it was down to 4% of capacity? Glad to see that Canyon is full again; lots of good memories from there.

Jean
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Old 11-19-2013, 02:27 PM   #16
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Where are you in Texas? I saw an earlier comment about SH16 on another thread. If you are around Medina Lake, what is the level as I had read that it was down to 4% of capacity? Glad to see that Canyon is full again; lots of good memories from there.

Jean
I'm in Helotes, Medina is a pond right now but the old timers say it was lower in the 50s.
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