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11-17-2013, 08:19 PM
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#1
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Weekend Camper
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Gurnee
Posts: 54
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Values by Hot Water Heater & Winterizing
Well I just completed wintering my 2014 Zinger 32QB TT. I hope I did it right. I ended up blowing out all the water lines, including the exterior shower via the city water connection and an air compressor.
I drained the H20 water heater and also blew it out w/ the air compressor by connecting it to the relief value.
I put RV antifreeze in all the traps as well as the toilet. I did NOT put antifreeze in the water lines as I blew it out w/ air compressor. Per the RV crossroads manual, that is one option to winterize.
One question I have though. There are 2 values by the hot water heater that are accesible via a panel in the bedroom. The one value is straight forward (close to bypass the hot water heater). There is also another value and blue and red lines connect to it. What is that for? Should that be open or closed when wintering / blowing out lines?
Any other comments on winterizing is greatly apprecitated.
BTW - mine didn't have the EZ winterizing hose attached which I was surprised as the manufacturer said newer ones have it. But didn't need it since I blew out the lines. Does anyone blow out the lines plus send antifreeze through the water lines?
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razmataz
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11-17-2013, 08:29 PM
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#2
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Site Team
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: PA
Posts: 5,715
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Blow and pink.
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Mark & Susan
Lehighton, Pennsylvania
EAGLE HT FIFTH WHEEL | 30.5CKTS - '13 Ford F150 SCREW - PullRite Superslide - Roadmaster Active Suspension
Member - "Northeast Adventures RV Rally Group" & "Mason-Dixon Bunch"
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11-17-2013, 08:35 PM
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#3
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Weekend Camper
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Gurnee
Posts: 54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mark5w
Blow and pink.
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Why do you do both?
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razmataz
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11-17-2013, 08:50 PM
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#4
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Site Team
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: PA
Posts: 5,715
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Double protection since I live on top of a windy mountain. NE PA.
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Mark & Susan
Lehighton, Pennsylvania
EAGLE HT FIFTH WHEEL | 30.5CKTS - '13 Ford F150 SCREW - PullRite Superslide - Roadmaster Active Suspension
Member - "Northeast Adventures RV Rally Group" & "Mason-Dixon Bunch"
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11-17-2013, 08:54 PM
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#5
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Weekend Camper
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Gurnee
Posts: 54
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Do you know what the other value is?
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razmataz
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11-17-2013, 09:24 PM
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#6
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Site Team
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: PA
Posts: 5,715
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2 valve hot water bypass diagram.
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Mark & Susan
Lehighton, Pennsylvania
EAGLE HT FIFTH WHEEL | 30.5CKTS - '13 Ford F150 SCREW - PullRite Superslide - Roadmaster Active Suspension
Member - "Northeast Adventures RV Rally Group" & "Mason-Dixon Bunch"
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11-17-2013, 09:29 PM
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#7
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Weekend Camper
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Gurnee
Posts: 54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mark5w
2 valve hot water bypass diagram.
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Awesome diagram! Ok when blowing out the lines, I should close the cold water inlet value to bypass the water heater OR
close the cold water inlet value to bypass the water heater & open the bypass value.
Which one should I do and why? Thanks in advance!@
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razmataz
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11-18-2013, 06:47 AM
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#8
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Full Time Camper
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Saskatchewan
Posts: 844
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Per diagram, close the cold water inlet and open the bypass valve - exact opposite to what is shown above (pic shows normal operation) and you want it to bypass the water heater after you have drained it. The one way check valve coming out of the hot side of the water heater prevents anything from flowing back into it when you bypass.
Blowing out your lines is an alternative to antifreeze but make sure your pump is dry. That is the hardest thing to winterize unless you suck some antifreeze through it - blowing it out may not get all the water out and you may be replacing a pump in the spring. You don't need to circulate pink completely through all lines as long as your pump is protected. Also, if you have a water filter, make sure you remove the filter and empty the canister of water and then screw the canister back on without the filter before and after you pump in any antifreeze. Most of these units don't come with in line water filters anymore, I know I had to add one to ours.
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Scott
2013 CrossRoads Cruiser Patriot CF345RF
2011 Ford F350 Lariat FX4 CC 6.7L Turbo Diesel (Heavily Modified)
Saskatoon, SK
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11-18-2013, 07:55 AM
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#9
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Full Time Camper
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Belle River , Ontario
Posts: 1,753
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A simple way to remember , both valves horizontal (work position) or both valves vertical (bypass position)
both valves ae always in sync with each other.
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It was a rainy few days at Algonquin Prov park...tarps kept us dry.
Wayne --Belle River (Windsor), Ontario
2013 Sunset Trail Reserve 25RB..(just sold it)
2015 White Chev Silverado 2500HD 4x4 (6.0 l gasser)
2003 Mountain Star 890SBRX Truck Camper
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11-18-2013, 08:20 AM
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#10
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Weekend Camper
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Gurnee
Posts: 54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WildWildWest
Per diagram, close the cold water inlet and open the bypass valve - exact opposite to what is shown above (pic shows normal operation) and you want it to bypass the water heater after you have drained it. The one way check valve coming out of the hot side of the water heater prevents anything from flowing back into it when you bypass.
Blowing out your lines is an alternative to antifreeze but make sure your pump is dry. That is the hardest thing to winterize unless you suck some antifreeze through it - blowing it out may not get all the water out and you may be replacing a pump in the spring. You don't need to circulate pink completely through all lines as long as your pump is protected. Also, if you have a water filter, make sure you remove the filter and empty the canister of water and then screw the canister back on without the filter before and after you pump in any antifreeze. Most of these units don't come with in line water filters anymore, I know I had to add one to ours.
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You answered my question! Owners manual states that if you have a little water left in the water tank it won't hurt anything. Furthermore it states to bypass it so you don't use an extra 6 gallons of RV antifreeze. Thanks both of you for your help!
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razmataz
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11-18-2013, 05:19 PM
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#11
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Full Time Camper
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Canton, OH
Posts: 937
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Raz,
looks like your question was answered, but figure extra info may help.
We have same trailer. If you feel behind the plywood in the compartment under the stove, you should have the EZ tube (I actually removed the plywood divider for easy access to tube and pump).
We drain, blow, then fill with antifreeze. This unit took 2.5 gallons at $2 each, so I figure it is worth the insurance for $6.
The panel under the drawers in the bedroom has 4 screws that give you access to the back of the water heater. If you do antifreeze, you will switch to bypass as noted in pics above.
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Eddy & Brenda
Canton, OH
2015 Silverado HD 6.0L
2014 Zinger 32QB
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11-18-2013, 10:46 PM
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#12
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Seasonal Camper
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: San Antonio TX
Posts: 293
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Hah! I'm glad I'm in Texas and don't have to do this.
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2013 Ram 2500 4x4 pulling a 2014 Zinger ZF31bh 5ver.
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11-19-2013, 08:40 AM
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#13
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Full Time Camper
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: DFW, TexUS
Posts: 1,032
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Thanks - now we'll probably have 19 degrees for 7 days after THAT comment
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11-19-2013, 09:57 AM
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#14
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Full Time Camper
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Canton, OH
Posts: 937
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Shane...I'd relocate if I could. I HATE winter.
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Eddy & Brenda
Canton, OH
2015 Silverado HD 6.0L
2014 Zinger 32QB
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11-19-2013, 12:00 PM
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#15
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Full Time Camper
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: VA
Posts: 590
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sking
Hah! I'm glad I'm in Texas and don't have to do this.
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Where are you in Texas? I saw an earlier comment about SH16 on another thread. If you are around Medina Lake, what is the level as I had read that it was down to 4% of capacity? Glad to see that Canyon is full again; lots of good memories from there.
Jean
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Larry & Jean - Chesterfield, VA
2014 Ram 3500 4x4 dually crew cab - Black
2010 Montana 3665RE - New to us
2013 Zinger 30KB - Sold
CrossroadsRV Rally 2013 & 2014 - Northeast Crossroads Rally 2014 - Mason-Dixon Rally 2014
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11-19-2013, 02:27 PM
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#16
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Seasonal Camper
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: San Antonio TX
Posts: 293
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BODERRVING
Where are you in Texas? I saw an earlier comment about SH16 on another thread. If you are around Medina Lake, what is the level as I had read that it was down to 4% of capacity? Glad to see that Canyon is full again; lots of good memories from there.
Jean
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I'm in Helotes, Medina is a pond right now but the old timers say it was lower in the 50s.
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2013 Ram 2500 4x4 pulling a 2014 Zinger ZF31bh 5ver.
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