NTM found a soft spot

htr2133 · 03-15-2021, 09:26 PM

Recently purchased a 2017 Sunset Trail Super Lite 289 QB. I found a couple of spots where I can tell the floor has been wet before bc of staining under linoleum. I found and fixed the water intrusion in one spot and luckily the floor and wall there is completely solid, no damage. Just some unsightly mildew stain under the linoleum but you really have to be looking to see it.

2nd spot is in bathroom floor. I would say the linoleum mildew stain is covering about 50% of the bathroom flooring. It is faint, almost looks like the floor design, but it isn't. It seems to be concentrated behind and beside the toilet and in front of the vanity. The stain does NOT come all the way over to the bathtub. I assume, there was likely a plumbing leak from the toilet or sink plumbing at one point. Bc the floor is mostly solid and the wall is perfect. It doesn't look like it has gotten wet in a long time.

1st Question: What would be the most likely places to check for the leak? I want to make sure it isn't still leaking but I don't see any signs of an existing leak. From the pipes, fittings, or toilet base.

The only soft spot is right between the toilet and bathtub. It isn't horrible, you have to step on it perfectly to feel it and work to find the edges of solid flooring. Ironically, the soft spot is NOT where the stains appear. I can definitely feel the aluminum floor stud. The soft spot is only about 6 inches long and only a few inches wide. Almost like a board missed the stud or something.

2nd Question: Is this worth cutting the linoleum out of the bathroom to inspect? Or is there a better way to inspect the floor from under camper? My wife says leave it be. But that little soft spot is going to drive me crazy.

Not sure I want to get into redoing the floor in that bathroom. Anyone done that on one of these?

Dallasrules · 03-21-2021, 03:30 PM

I would cut the flooring around the edges so you can pull it back. If the subfloor is pretty good, I would put some wood hardener on it. Then I would put a thin piece of tin over it or some floor leveler. Then put the linoleum back down on top. Also, clean any mold or mildew with something that will kill it. You don't want that to continue to grow under there.

TexSon · 03-21-2021, 03:49 PM

I had soft spots on the floor of mine and had to cut out the bad spots and either scabbed on some framing to put new plywood in, or was able to use the existing joist. It depended on where the soft spot was. Mine turned out to be the seals around the celler doors had gone bad, so I replaced the seals on all outside doors. I threw out all the fiberglass under the flooring as it was soaking wet and actually wicked the water from the door seal leaks and also held the water trapped between the linolium and plastic belly cover. I used spray foam to replace the fiberglass as it is basically fire proof. With any luck it should also help keep water out. I had to replace the linolium as well.

htr2133 · 03-22-2021, 02:23 PM

Thank you for the responses! I'm dreading this project, but I know, if I keep the camper, I'm going to want the soft spot repaired. The linoleum is so mildewed, I don't think I can reuse it unless it cleans off the underside after I pull it up.

I'm not so worried about removing the toilet, vanity, or even re-enforcing or replacing any subfloor. My main concern is matching up some new linoleum flooring when I've repaired the soft spot.

TexSon · 03-22-2021, 04:06 PM

Lowes has linolium remnents and I found some that was as close as I could get and the used the flat metal boarder strips where the new met the old.

TexSon · 03-22-2021, 04:16 PM

Here are a couple of shots. They show where I cut out the bad and then the finished. Thought I had a couple along the way where I scabbed on the tack boards and then with the replacement parts, but can't find them right now. I had to do this on both sides of the trailer.

htr2133 · 03-22-2021, 05:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TexSon

Here are a couple of shots. They show where I cut out the bad and then the finished. Thought I had a couple along the way where I scabbed on the tack boards and then with the replacement parts, but can't find them right now. I had to do this on both sides of the trailer.

Thank You! That looks very close, great job! Pics really helpful to understand the job.

TexSon · 03-22-2021, 07:32 PM

Let me know if you have questions. I had to repair some of the cellar floor and had to replace some of the framework and joist as well. You coiuldn't see the damage that was being done as it was under the linoleum and trapped between the flooring and belly covering the fiberglass trapped the water and it rotted for I don't know how long. I hope I got it all and also that the new seals keep the water out.

htr2133 · 03-22-2021, 09:38 PM

Thanks, since my travel trailer doesn't have basement storage, I think I may be able to remove the corrugated underbelly plastic and get to the underside of the floor from under the trailer. I may be able to survey the damage and then easier hide all the ugly by reattaching the underbelly cover after repairs. I assume there is insulation and the standard black moisture barrier wrap to get through to see the actual subfloor material. Also, there would be a lot of plumbing, definitely blackwater and possibly grey water tanks in that area blocking access to floor.

I am going back and forth on the best approach to take. Leaning toward topside access bc I really don't like the idea of dropping all that plumbing and tanks. Also, if I find something, I'd have to likely cut the floor up in the end anyway to repair it, so I might as well start there.

Any recommendations or thoughts?

TexSon · 03-23-2021, 03:35 PM

Be careful around the various tanks and if you cut from the top, make sure and set the blade so it just goes through the floor board (1/2 or 5/8 ply). I hope you don't have the damage I did, but if you do, take out as much as you can, and take your time.

PA-Jay · 07-08-2021, 06:31 PM

I also have a 2017 with a soft spot in the floor in front of the door and bedroom a few feet away. I pulled up the linoleum and was amazed at how thin the floor is (maybe 1/4”). It is a super thin piece of plywood on top of a large chunk of foam and another thin piece below. The aluminum beams seem to go between the 2 pieces. I believe my leak started at the bedroom window or door. The window is only caulked at the top and none on the sides. I am currently in the process of cutting out the rot and replace it. Hopefully I can spray bleach on the underside of the linoleum to kill the mold and put it back down. I am worried about what is under the floor . It’s so frustrating . I’ve only had it 3 years and take great care of it.

Wingerdinger · 07-08-2021, 06:52 PM

There are better products for mold remediation than bleach. There is a product called Concrobuim that I have had good luck with.
Good luck with your project. I hope it isn't too extensive.

**mark5w** · 07-08-2021, 06:53 PM

Here is a possible answer for removing the mold.

https://biocidelabs.com/mold-bomb-fogger/

fred.tardiff · 08-19-2021, 06:09 AM

Did you get very far with your sub floor, just took off the vinyl yesterday 8/18/2021 , boy what a surprise. I have a 2012 QB32 Slingshot same type of flooring 1/8 or 1/4 plywood with the white material under that. Did you cut that away down to the framing . Just getting started , don't want to get carried away removing to much yet.

PA-Jay · 08-19-2021, 06:23 AM

Yes, I used an orbital saw to cut through the thin lauan and pulled it off the styrofoam using a putty knife. I noticed that the aluminum floor joists were 42 inches apart with nothing holding you up but lauan and foam so I cut out space for two 2x2’s that went between the joists to support it. I then bought some spray expanding window foam and jammed it into every crack and crevice to help reunite all the foam. I then cut 1/4” plywood and glued it down. Lastly, I tried to remedy the mold the best I could and glued the linoleum back down. What I didn’t realize (lack of experience I guess) is that wet linoleum shrinks. It left me about 1/4” short on all the walls I pulled it from. I used my almost non existent artistic ability and some different color spray paints to paint some shoe molding to match the floor. It turned out okay!

fred.tardiff · 08-19-2021, 04:36 PM

Thanks Jay
Gave me some good ideas on what to do.
Wife was looking for a way to get new flooring,
I guess she will once I am done cutting the rest of the vinyl up. Want to make sure there are no more bad spots

Travlinman · 12-26-2021, 08:10 AM

Anyone try replacing linoleum floor with wood laminate?

TexSon · 12-26-2021, 11:25 AM

Linoleum is about 1/8th to 3/16th inch thick while the underlay for the laminate is that and the laminate itself is about a 1/4 inch or a bit more. You would have to take that into consideration, and probably 3 times the weight. But some high end RVs have marble floors, so there is no reason you couldn't do that.

Travlinman · 12-26-2021, 11:31 AM

Thanks for the reply. I’ve got several soft spots and I’ll need to do something.

TexSon · 12-26-2021, 11:40 AM

Make sure you have found and remedied whatever caused those spots. What I thought was a leaky water pipe turned out to be a rain leak in the cellar doors which soaked the fiberglass insulation. That acted like a sponge and not only held the water (no air flow around so no way for it to dry) but also spread the water. It cost a bit more, but I used spray foam instead of fiberglass to replace the insulation as it is both water and also fire resistant.

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