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Old 09-12-2021, 07:19 PM   #1
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Self Adjusting Brakes

I'm planning a long trip for next year and thought I should replace my hubs and electric brakes as I believe these are the original set from the factory. Thought I would spend some of my pension money while I'm still sitting around.

I was looking at the Dexter hubs and brakes.
How do the self adjusting type work?
Are they reliable?
What is the cost?
Where in Manitoba, Canada to get them?
Is this a DIY thing or should a mechanic be involved?

Thanks for any feed back.
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Old 09-12-2021, 08:21 PM   #2
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It would be a DIY if your mechanically inclined. DL Trailer parts in Cartwright Manitoba has parts. Good prices too. I bought one of my axles complete from them back in 2019 on my Zinger ZT260BH.
PJ trailers on the south perimeter in Winnipeg has parts too.
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Old 09-14-2021, 11:44 AM   #3
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Thanks 660catman for the info. I checked DJ's website but they didn't seem to have the ones for a 3.5k axle. If I can't find here in Wpg I'll give them a call. Stopped by PJ Trailers of S. Perimeter and the salesman was less than helpful. First said they didn't carry Dexter until I showed him a bunch on his shelf. They had 12" but no 10" nor did they have the hub/brake assembly. He wasn't interested much in making a sale I guess.

Checked ETrailer and cost them out. Parts, shipping, taxes and duties will be somewhere around $1900. Canadian.

I thought Dexter would be a common brand to buy in more places around here. I have found some but for one brake is more that a pair at ETrailer.

I has hoping to get them on and adjusted before the snow flies. Still looking!
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Old 09-14-2021, 12:29 PM   #4
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I would call DL Trailer and ask if they can get the Nev-r-adjust brake assemblies. And FWIW, I took my Lippert axle brakes from my Zinger and installed them on my Forest River cargo trailer with a Dexter drop axle. Both 3500 lb as bolt patterns for brake mounts are the same. Of course, axle has to have that mounting flange on it. Not the self adjusting ones though.
Good luck in your search. If the border opens up, ship E Trailer parts to border and pick up there. I’ve done it many times. Either at Lancaster Mn on 59 or Pembina on 75.
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Old 09-16-2021, 05:47 PM   #5
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Thanks 660catman for the help on this. I bit the bullet and ordered them from ETrailer on Sunday as I wasn't getting anywhere locally. They shipped today and will get them sent direct to me. Cut out the middleman, which would get their pound of flesh as well.

PJTrailers did get back to me saying they didn't carry that Dexter model but may in the future as it appears to get good reviews.

I also ordered the double lipped seals and I like to use the zirks once in awhile.

Safe travels.
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Old 09-16-2021, 05:53 PM   #6
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No problem. Keep us posted on your progress.
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Old 09-19-2021, 04:08 PM   #7
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3500 lb axle brake assembly is very common replacement part, Cerka industries in Milton Ontario has several options for a way less tha e-trailer, not sure why you wish to replace hubs, do new bearings and races and you are as good as new.
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Old 09-19-2021, 04:15 PM   #8
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Yak, you may be on top of this but just to mention, the brake shoes will require break in to rough them up a bit. Also, on my new trailer with self adjusting brakes, off the dealers lot, I had no brakes. Had to manually adjust them in to a point where the self adjusting mechanism would take over. eTrailer can help with the procedure for both if needed.
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Old 09-19-2021, 04:15 PM   #9
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Thanks Neil57 for the info. I did a lot of Googling but that site never came up. I have it bookmarked for next time.
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Old 09-19-2021, 04:20 PM   #10
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Big thanks TN Bigfoot on the break info. I've never adjusted brakes before and was a little leery of either putting them too loose or too tight or one side off kilter. Thought that the self adjusting brakes would take the guess work out of the procedure.

I'll check with ETrailer if the documentation is not included with the brakes.
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Old 09-19-2021, 04:52 PM   #11
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When you install the drum, spin it by hand and adjust the brake manually until it drags, then you are good to go. The self adjust will do the rest. You need to break the the new brakes in by doing a bunch of short stops, the a cool down and should be good.
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Old 09-19-2021, 04:57 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yakherder View Post
Big thanks TN Bigfoot on the break info. I've never adjusted brakes before and was a little leery of either putting them too loose or too tight or one side off kilter. Thought that the self adjusting brakes would take the guess work out of the procedure.

I'll check with ETrailer if the documentation is not included with the brakes.
Last fall I replaced my axles and went from 10" brakes to 12" self adjusting. Before leaving on a 1200 mile trip I manually adjusted them (incorrectly I might add). Within 300 miles they had overheated, burned the surface of the shoes and would lock up every time I stepped on the brakes. I contacted Dexter and they sent me new brake assemblies.
So you're questing is, what is the proper way to manually adjust them right from the get go?
Ans: while you have the tire off the ground, spin the wheel and manually adjust until the wheel won't spin, then, back off the star adjuster until a spin of the tire takes 2 full turns before the wheel stops spinning.

Stopping any sooner than that causes the brakes to drag and overheat. The new brake shoes used today don't contain asbestos like in the old days so the brakes can overheat pretty easily.

Good luck on your project, it's not difficult just a little time.

happy camping
Dustin
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Old 09-19-2021, 04:58 PM   #13
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Thanks again Neil57 for the adjusting info. I have the tool for it and they will be new so I'll have lots of pad to play with.

How long have you had yours and have you had any trouble with them?

My first trip next year is 3 - 4 months long and I'm getting things ready now to hopefully go in May if the snow goes away.
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Old 09-19-2021, 05:03 PM   #14
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Thanks Dustin. That is a little more fine tuned and hopefully I should be able to get that done. Then once they are adjusted manually then comes the short runs to 20 mph and stops to let the self adjuster find the sweet spot. I guess(????)
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Old 09-19-2021, 05:12 PM   #15
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Thanks Dustin. That is a little more fine tuned and hopefully I should be able to get that done. Then once they are adjusted manually then comes the short runs to 20 mph and stops to let the self adjuster find the sweet spot. I guess(????)
That's correct. Eventually the auto adjust will kick in. I was pretty disappointed with my new 12" brakes for at least 1500 miles. It took quite awhile for them to shape to the brake drums. 45 years ago when I changed brakes I would take the new shoes and drums to an mechanic and they would shape the shoes to match the curve of the drums. I don't remember what the term is, but basically they measure the diameter of the drum and then sand away part of the brake shoe to exactly match the drum. The result was right from the get-go the brakes were very effective. But, you can do a pretty good job just by roughing up the surface of the new shoes so they're not glossy.
good luck
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Old 09-19-2021, 05:32 PM   #16
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Toolman, It's called arcing. Back in my racing days we had drum brakes. We had to match the shoes to the drums to get optimum surface contact for max braking.
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Old 09-19-2021, 05:33 PM   #17
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Think I know what your talking about Dustin. Not sure if they planes your pads to match your drums though. Since most if not all cars and trucks now have disk brakes you don't here of drums being turned anymore. The drums wear as much if not more than the brake pads. Brake pads are replaced when they wear down to a certain thickness but the drums should be TURNED, (I think that was the terminology) every time the pads are replaced. Drums are suppose to be perfectly round inside but after constant use they get a low spot/high spot and have to be ground back into round for the brakes to work properly.
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Old 09-19-2021, 05:35 PM   #18
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It’s called burnishing in the shoes. You adjust till they start to drag and several stops later they will need adjusting, either manually or by self adjuster. This is old school drum brake knowledge from 40 yrs ago LOL. Break them in right and they will work awesome.
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Old 09-19-2021, 05:36 PM   #19
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Haven't heard of arcing but must be for the same purpose. I'll have to check that one.

Just found this on arcing: www.chaski.org › homemachinist › viewtopic
Mar 16, 2004 · This tool was used to arc the shoes whereas the center of the shoe in the arc would contact the drum first. This machine did grind away a small portion of the braking material on the ends to allow the center to contact first. This did give a much better brake and basically the shoes were fitted to the drum. It is/was a great way for the shoes to fit and not have to be worn into fitting the drum.

Looks like the pads were machined as well in some procedures.
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Old 09-19-2021, 08:31 PM   #20
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Toolman, It's called arcing. Back in my racing days we had drum brakes. We had to match the shoes to the drums to get optimum surface contact for max braking.
Yes, arcing is what it's called. We would arc the new pads to fit the arc of the drums. For old pads that were slick and shiny we would burnish them to rough them up.

I get a kick out of how often the conversations get down in the ditch and away from the original topic. Thanks for the help with my memory.
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