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Old 06-18-2021, 11:03 PM   #1
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Underbelly Sag

noticed the underbelly plastic on my 2017 Sunset Trail 289QB is uneven and sags in a few places. I wouldn't say any area is worse, it was kind of saggy all the way. Like its that way from the factory. Is this normal?

I was surprised at how few screws hold this up on cross framing. I can only see one row in cross-wise.
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Old 06-19-2021, 06:19 AM   #2
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Some sag is normal. As long as it's still secure and not dragging along the interstate I'd roll along.
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Old 06-19-2021, 06:44 AM   #3
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Thanks, yeah it seems solid and still up nice and high, looks like it was just installed with more flex and sag than I would have assumed you'd have with a factory install.
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Old 06-19-2021, 07:28 AM   #4
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Yep. I know what you mean.
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Old 06-19-2021, 11:09 AM   #5
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Depending on where the sag is, and how much there is. You might want to check and make sure it's not a water tank, or one of the holding tanks. The support under those have been know to be lacking at times.
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Old 06-19-2021, 11:31 AM   #6
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I agree with Lloyd. Check the black, grey and fresh water tanks if they're sagging. Many had put extra supports under them.
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Old 06-22-2021, 11:51 AM   #7
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Yikes! I don't think my sag areas are tanks that have fallen. I can gently push up and there is no resistance; it doesn't feel like anything substantial is resting on the plastic.

Y'all got me thinking though; is there an easy way to remove this without cutting it? I don't want to mess up and end up not being able to get it back in place.
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Old 06-22-2021, 02:12 PM   #8
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That cover should be held in place with metal strips and self tapping screws running the length of the frame on both sides. Just take a few out where you want to see in there. Use a flash light and you should be able to see if anything is wrong.
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Old 06-22-2021, 03:22 PM   #9
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That cover should be held in place with metal strips and self tapping screws running the length of the frame on both sides. Just take a few out where you want to see in there. Use a flash light and you should be able to see if anything is wrong.
thanks! I am definitely going to do this in sections. I love the enclosed heated underbelly but I don't like not being able to inspect and get to things easily. Trade-offs I guess.
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Old 06-24-2021, 04:30 AM   #10
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I had my Coroplast crack on me over a winter from rear to about two feet ahead of front wheel. I bought new coroplast from dealer which was thicker and better. I bought the proper tape for the join to original piece up front. I also added extra supports where there was lots of movement up and down. I had roof rails from an old gazebo. They were 3/4” thin wall tubing, just perfect for the job. After screwing them into the rails, I lifted the coroplast and dabbed silicone to hold it down on the supports. It held for the fours years until I sold the camper.
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Old 07-02-2021, 08:57 AM   #11
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I cut the Coroplast into sections and removed it. The fasteners were "nails" with hex heads shot into the I-beams! I replaced with self-thread metal screws and washers. What I found as far as "Extreme Weather package was - it isn't. I took it down to seal floor holes and add insulation to the pipes. While in there I also added a layer of insulation to the inside of the I-beams and a layer across the bottom when I put it back up. I also found the 2" duct that "heated" the belly was BEHIND the rear gray water tank so calculating the amount of heat that got forward I figure was about ZERO! I fastened a PVC pipe to it and routed it forward then drilled 1/2" holes at an angle to direct more heat out and forward. I do notice quite a bit of sag and had it before I cut the plastic. I still need to pull it down to add some outlets/circuits toward floor for convenience and to run space heaters in cold weather. It was too cold to use Eternabond tape when I did this but will use that when I take it down again. I used Gorilla Tape which worked OK for a temp measure.
While mentioning weather mods, I recently found a YouTube (careful- these will suck your time w=away!) video how to make AC units more efficient. An engineer designed an insert to make in/out more efficient for a ducted unit like we have. The problems were, the factory mounted the AC unit about 2-2 1/2" off to feed entire ducts on each side. Instead of about 7" I could only feed about 5". But it did have a nice baffle to direct the airflow of the cold side directly into the ducts and use the entire intake to feed the warm side. The other problem was the price was $170 (plus tax & S&H I am sure). I ended up cutting a 2X4 and putting a 45 degree bevel each side to split the airflow and direct toward the ducts on each side. I also used some silver HVAC tape to make sure everything is sealed. I was pleasantly surprised when I put it back together and tested it. There was noticeably more air flow even though someone had been in there previously and did an OK job taping to keep the hot/cold sides from mixing. It was well worth the time spent. I think the baffle I made was the thing that made the biggest difference. I used a piece of scrap wood so saved the $170+ to boot. This made the little Bohemian side of me quite happy! I did have a friend tell me one time I could take a buffalo nickle and squeeze it so hard to make the Native American ride that buffalo. Of course all of these references are probably not PC now-days but they get the point across.
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Old 07-02-2021, 09:44 AM   #12
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My underbelly was sagging a lot more than I liked, and even broke away from the screws holding it in one spot, so I added aluminum angle bars every 3-4 feet across the bottom.
It is now up where it belongs.
I looked under it where it broke away, and it's amazing how much wire and ductwork and tank heaters are just laying on the coroplast, and not fastened to anything at all.
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Old 07-02-2021, 01:09 PM   #13
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I cut the Coroplast into sections and removed it. The fasteners were "nails" with hex heads shot into the I-beams! I replaced with self-thread metal screws and washers. What I found as far as "Extreme Weather package was - it isn't. I took it down to seal floor holes and add insulation to the pipes. While in there I also added a layer of insulation to the inside of the I-beams and a layer across the bottom when I put it back up. I also found the 2" duct that "heated" the belly was BEHIND the rear gray water tank so calculating the amount of heat that got forward I figure was about ZERO! I fastened a PVC pipe to it and routed it forward then drilled 1/2" holes at an angle to direct more heat out and forward. I do notice quite a bit of sag and had it before I cut the plastic. I still need to pull it down to add some outlets/circuits toward floor for convenience and to run space heaters in cold weather. It was too cold to use Eternabond tape when I did this but will use that when I take it down again. I used Gorilla Tape which worked OK for a temp measure.
While mentioning weather mods, I recently found a YouTube (careful- these will suck your time w=away!) video how to make AC units more efficient. An engineer designed an insert to make in/out more efficient for a ducted unit like we have. The problems were, the factory mounted the AC unit about 2-2 1/2" off to feed entire ducts on each side. Instead of about 7" I could only feed about 5". But it did have a nice baffle to direct the airflow of the cold side directly into the ducts and use the entire intake to feed the warm side. The other problem was the price was $170 (plus tax & S&H I am sure). I ended up cutting a 2X4 and putting a 45 degree bevel each side to split the airflow and direct toward the ducts on each side. I also used some silver HVAC tape to make sure everything is sealed. I was pleasantly surprised when I put it back together and tested it. There was noticeably more air flow even though someone had been in there previously and did an OK job taping to keep the hot/cold sides from mixing. It was well worth the time spent. I think the baffle I made was the thing that made the biggest difference. I used a piece of scrap wood so saved the $170+ to boot. This made the little Bohemian side of me quite happy! I did have a friend tell me one time I could take a buffalo nickle and squeeze it so hard to make the Native American ride that buffalo. Of course all of these references are probably not PC now-days but they get the point across.



Nice write up.
Would you by any chance have some pictures of the job?
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Old 07-06-2021, 05:22 AM   #14
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Nice write up.
Would you by any chance have some pictures of the job?
I did take some photos but not as many as I should have. I loaded 2. The one is the 2" "vent" that hung in underbelly to add heat- but was behind the rear kitchen grey water tank so useless. I added a PVC pipe to direct heat toward the front and also foamed all the holes in the floor. Also can be seen the pipe insulation added to the water pipes. In the other photo can be seen the sheet insulation I used. It was left over from adding some to my shop. I got it at Insulation4less in big rolls. This was rated R17 and is closed cell with skin of silver foil. I added this also to the insides of the I beams and used silver HVAC foil tape to secure it. Hope this helps and any other questions, ask away. I still need to open it up again since I do not like the sag in some sections plus want to add some outlets and also check sensor connectors in black tank that always reads full.
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Old 07-06-2021, 07:19 AM   #15
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Looks like you made quite an improvement over what the factory is known for sending out. Good job.
Thanks for the pics.
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