Has anyonefound a 4 place bike rack that is strong enough and recommended by the rack manufacture to be installed in a hitch receiver? I never thought bikes would be such a problem with our new RV purchase. The racks I have found are not recommended to be placed on the back of a trailer. I know there are plenty of post from people who do it with 2but what about 4 bikes? What brand of Rack?
We bought a 08 Cruiser and I want to install a receiver to pull my ATV trailer. I would like to also use the receiver for the bike rack when the atv's stay home. I was considering the curt 13703 adjustable hitch but there is one problem.The Drop down clearanceisn't enough to clear the bumper. There are two 4 inch square tubes welded to the bottom of the I-beam. My bumper is welded to the ends of these tube supports. The Curt hitch when mouonted into the web of the I-frame suspension brings the top of the insert down 3 inches from the bottom of the I-beam Causing a clearance issue. If the hitch drop was another inch I would be moving onto repacking bearing and all the other mods I want to do. Has anyone had this same problem with the bumper getting in the way. I know doing a custom hitch is an option and will look into that also.
I have read one post from someone who bent his trailer frame from tripple towing. With these light weight trailers and no engineering data to go off of Im concerned. I was also thinking about beefing up the last 6 feet of the I-beam but I'm not an engineer and have no clue if that would do a thing. Was thinking of having plate steel welded in the web of the I-beam. Any thoughts or guidance?
I purchased this brand of rack some years ago and it was expandable from 2-> 4 bikes. The sucker is solid all steel frame. I had two bikes on it and went off roading, the bikes didn't move a bit.
Thanks Eddy, looking forward to hearing back on the brand. Is it approved for the back of a RV? How long or how many miles have you been running the Wally world rack. Have you had any issues.
Here is a link to the Allen brand rack that we are currently using. Have had good sucess with this model and simply no complications. Purchased it at Wal-Mart online for $99.95, much better price than they publish on the Allen website. Below is a link.
Thanks guys, I think I came up with a solution to my hitch issue. I' m going to use the Curt 13703 hitch. The insert drop is only 3 inches and I need 4 to clear the bumper. I'm going to cut the weld that attached the square tube support to the bumper and raise the bumper and inch or so. Will re-weld and probably place a 45 degree gusset to the bumper and for extra support. I am also going to weld and bolt an 1/4 inch steel plate to the web of each I-beam to beef things up. Had the upderbelly covering opened last night to formulate the plan. SHAME on Crossroads on how they manufacture these trailer. The main electrical feed is fished through the steel frame with no grommets. Saw minor chafing in my 30 amp line feeding the trailer. Saw electrical lines laying loose on top of the rigged insulation that were wire nutted together. These should be zip tied or secured in some way. Punching a hole and running plumbing and electrical through them without protecting them is not safe and flat out wrong. Has me thing about pulling the entire underbelly. I really don't have time for this. Almost don't want to know what else I will find
The mounting bracket is in the shape of a Z. It bolts on the inside vertical web of the I-beam. I think your idea would work if the hitch mounted on the bottom surface of Frame like most cars and trucks
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