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Old 09-29-2013, 03:42 AM   #1
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I need caulking repaired in a few places on my 5th wheel. The dealer uses Silicone. I have never used silicone caulking on fiberglass seams. Any opinions on this. Thanks ...Al

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Old 09-29-2013, 03:54 AM   #2
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I use 3M white silicon caulk on everything but the roof. I have been using it for years with good results. I get mine at Lowe's but Home Depot may carry it. Just make sure you clean the area good before applying.
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Old 09-29-2013, 08:35 AM   #3
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OEM uses Sikaflex or Proflex, non silicone based caulking. I use silicone inside but not outside. Also, silicones chemical composite makes it a poor choice if you want to apply it over old silicone. Use Dicor self leveling lap sealant for the roof surfaces.
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Old 09-29-2013, 10:06 AM   #4
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I have had good luck with Proflex RV. I'm sure there are others that work as well. Silicone is easy to install, but difficult to remove when it's time for a reseal.
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Old 09-29-2013, 10:18 AM   #5
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Proflex is what I use...works great on the sides
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Old 09-29-2013, 10:18 AM   #6
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Very hard for silicone to stick on silicone. Better off with the Proflex.
Good luck.


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Old 09-30-2013, 12:30 AM   #7
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Finding it very difficult to do a nice neat caulking job. Don't feel like paying $100.00 an hour to have the dealer do it. What is the secret to doing a nice job?...Al
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Old 09-30-2013, 12:39 AM   #8
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Better quality caulking (silicone or acrylic latex)seems to flow better - but always slow down, very very slow squeeze on the gun as you move (I find a slight pull and move while waiting for caulk to slow and then another very slight pull - can't be continuous squeezeif moving veryslow). If using silicone, don't try to tool it a lotunless you do it right away (gloves) before it skins over or you'll have a mess. Tape off edges if you want a really clean look with masking tape (remove quickly before it skins over). Cut very little off of the tip or you will be too wide. The more you do the easier it gets but never try to rush it. If using silicone based (I prefer for things like the trailer and outside work), I use the CSL Silicone in Clear or Translucent but you can get it in white and a few other colors as well. Clear is a good choice if your trailer is painted. Translucent hides more if you have a gap.

Edited by: WildWildWest
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Old 09-30-2013, 12:41 AM   #9
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Good prep, completly remove old caulk. There are plastic caulk removal tools (Home depot, Lowes etc) They work well and don't cause damage. You need a clean dry surface proper bead size and patience. If you draw the bead with you finger keep it wet with a mild soapy solution. A decent quality caulk gun also helps. It is a fast learning curve. Good luck.
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Old 09-30-2013, 11:35 AM   #10
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Blue painters tape, small opening and a 45 degree tip, and mineral spirits on a rag with the tip of your finger.
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Old 10-04-2013, 05:47 AM   #11
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Dealer tells me that pretty much all the caulk needs to be redone. He figures 8 hours @ $100.00 an hour. Seems like a long time and a lot of money. He says thatoriginal caulk was done poorly.
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Old 10-04-2013, 05:54 AM   #12
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Sounds like a long time.
I can't imagine paying tech prices to do caulking. Do you know anybody that does house siding/ windows, they are usually the neatest sealant appliers. Removing the old can be a difficult process, is that something you can handle yourself to save money?
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Old 10-04-2013, 09:42 PM   #13
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I like the 3M Marine 5200 caulk. Stays flexible, adheres very well and will not crack. Silicone is a waste of time except around window rubber seals. For some reason silicone sticks very well to glass.

Use blue painters tape for nice looking edges but remove it quickly before a skin forms on caulk. Use a very small 45 degree angle on the tube. You will get better as you go. Don't use too much, a small bead works very well.
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Old 10-04-2013, 11:19 PM   #14
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If that quote is to redo the caulking from the factory with silicone I'd run, real fast. If you are at all handy, take my previous suggestion and get some mineral spirits, rags, painters tape and Proflex (or similar high quality polymer based caulking) and redo it yourself for $50.
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Old 10-04-2013, 11:26 PM   #15
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Do you remove the old caulk or go over it?
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Old 10-04-2013, 11:41 PM   #16
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To be done correctly for a lasting job, remove the old caulk first.
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Old 10-04-2013, 11:41 PM   #17
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Only needs to be removed if the old caulking is peeling or dried out - if the unit is only a year or two old this should be very unlikely; on older units it's very likely. For the roof, Dicor self leveling is the same, only remove what is dried and peeling. The mineral spirits on a rag on old caulking will remove any grime and mildew. Wash the unit after, allow to dry, and start project.

If removal is required, I buy the disposable plastic scrapers - they won't mar or damage the fiberglass.Edited by: mwebber78
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