I have a 2010 Cruiser and the Dometic 2852 refrigerator has stopped cooling. It seems to be working in both gas and electric modes as it gets hot and the cooling fan comes on.
I spoke with an RV repairman and he says that the only option is to replace it with a new one to the tune of around $1,500.
Does that sound right to you or are there things that can be done to repair it?
Thanks,
KennyB
__________________
Ken and Marilyn, 2010 CF30SK, 2003 F250 V10 www.runnerduck.com
I know they can be repaired depending on the problem. I think he wanted to sell you a new one. Have another tech check it out. In the meantime, in our Documents section, there is a Dometic Diagnostic Manual to look at.
__________________
Mark & Susan
Lehighton, Pennsylvania
EAGLE HT FIFTH WHEEL | 30.5CKTS - '13 Ford F150 SCREW - PullRite Superslide - Roadmaster Active Suspension Member - "Northeast Adventures RV Rally Group" & "Mason-Dixon Bunch"
I know they can be repaired depending on the problem. I think he wanted to sell you a new one. Have another tech check it out. In the meantime, in our Documents section, there is a Dometic Diagnostic Manual to look at.
I don't think that's the case as he doesn't sell them, only repairs them.
He did ask if the refrigerator was mounted in a slid-out. It is and he said that refrigerators in slide-outs are more prone to failure because they can't be vented properly out the top, only out the side.
Thanks,
KennyB
__________________
Ken and Marilyn, 2010 CF30SK, 2003 F250 V10 www.runnerduck.com
Kenny...Good to see you on here again. I replaced my 2852 last Jan and installed it a lot better than the factory (as in per instructions!). Cools much better and faster. I got a Norcold for $1200 including shipping.
As for your issue, did you ever smell ammonia in and around the fridge? You can also unplug the thermistor at the circuit board and that will place the fridge into a max cold mode to see if the thermistor is bad.
No, I just reinstalled the fan I had from the factory. I did make some pretty good mods to improve airflow that you may be interested in. Hardest part was building the wood blocking in the back that HAS to be 1/4" from the fins when the fridge is installed. Lots of careful measurements. I also made a curved duct at the top since the upper vent cover is BELOW the cooling fins which is a no-no per Norcold and Dometic but Crossroads did it anyway. Tell you what...Email me (look in my profile) and I will send my phone number. You might want to get together and see what I did before you start.
Edit: You can also search "new fridge install-lessons learned" on this forum as I wrote a writeup about this in Feb.
I don't think that's the case as he doesn't sell them, only repairs them.
He did ask if the refrigerator was mounted in a slid-out. It is and he said that refrigerators in slide-outs are more prone to failure because they can't be vented properly out the top, only out the side.
Thanks,
KennyB
I think he is right . Mine is a 6 foot but on an extension and the fan never worked cause the small contact stayed open and the fridg was not installed as it is supposed to by Cruiser I am replacing it with a 8 foot and gonna use two fan controlled by a switch and build with one eight plywood the requiresd flues as the manufacturer asks in Canada a 8 foot costs 3000 $ CAN maybe will wait to get back to USA to buy a new one.. Will use a house refr. for the summer being at a campground. Have fun everybody...