akaustin, you should check your charging system.
I think that every RV owner should have a multimeter, and learn how to use it to check and troubleshoot the electrical systems in their RV.
Get a voltmeter, and check your battery, unloaded and disconnected. You should have well over 12 volts, charged.
Connect it to your RV, and when connected, the converter should be charging or maintaining it. Across the battery terminals, you should get over 13 volts. If you have a bad battery, these voltages will differ.
Your RV should have a 3 step convertor. I would find the model and get the manual. I have a 2015 with a WFCO 8955, and the manual is available on the web site, and it is a nice manual.
I would check the convertor with a known good battery. A battery that is caved in can mean it has been cooked by an overcharge, or low/dry cells. When fully charged, your 3 step convertor should be in 'float or maintenance mode', charging at about 13.2 volts.
I am among those that have gone to 2) 6 volts GC2 golf cart type batteries. They are 105aH each, in series, 210aH. Over triple the amps of the typical deep cycle, and they work flawlessly. Costco, less than $100 each. I even found a nice battery box that fits in the original battery area behind the LP tanks.
I live in Minnesota, we saw 25 below a few days this winter, and my batteries do just fine left on the camper, with my RV plugged in. I look at the water once every 6-8 weeks. as long as I'm not discharging the batteries, they never need water (I still check).
Doug and Patience and Shelby the mutt
2015 Crossroads Sunset Trail Reserve ST26RB
2013 Ford F-150 3.5 EcoBoost XLT Supercab 4x4