Extreme weather package

[Lew]

Unless I’m missing something, I have to say I am less than impressed with this extreme weather package.

One night at 25 degrees and fresh water tank froze. I had the heater running all day and night. Dealer told me there were heat ducts directly to the holding tanks.

I’m a little bummed because the extreme weather package played a large part in choosing this rv.

Lew

2021 Sunset Trail SS222RB

[travelin texans]

Wouldn't make much difference what brand of rv or what cold weather package sales gimmick name they may have given it they are not/never will be good in "extreme" weather conditions whether it be winter or very hot summers.
Typically those so called weather packages consist of the underbelly enclosed with either Darco (black fabric type material) or Coroplast (plastic cardboard), neither have any insulating value, with a layer of Reflectix (shiny bubble wrap), very little insulating value, above that & a single 2", maybe a 3", furnace duct blowing into it. Hardly EXTREME!
Are you sure your tank froze or the water supply hose froze. At 25 degrees it would've been very high winds lowering the chill factor considerably to freeze the water tank solid enough to be unusable.

[Lew]

Originally Posted by travelin texans

Wouldn't make much difference what brand of rv or what cold weather package sales gimmick name they may have given it they are not/never will be good in "extreme" weather conditions whether it be winter or very hot summers.
Typically those so called weather packages consist of the underbelly enclosed with either Darco (black fabric type material) or Coroplast (plastic cardboard), neither have any insulating value, with a layer of Reflectix (shiny bubble wrap), very little insulating value, above that & a single 2", maybe a 3", furnace duct blowing into it. Hardly EXTREME!
Are you sure your tank froze or the water supply hose froze. At 25 degrees it would've been very high winds lowering the chill factor considerably to freeze the water tank solid enough to be unusable.

I think initially it was the pickup tube from the tank, so I placed a lamp in the wet bay. Subsequent days have been as cold or colder and the problem is worse. My tank level indicators are not reading correctly which leads me to believe the tank itself is freezing. Prior to this I had made an insulated cover for the fresh water drain, so I really felt I was covered.

I understand what you mean about the gimmick weather package, but with the enclosure and ducted heat I guess I just expected better performance at 25 degrees.

[mark5w]

One of these for each tank should resolve your problem.

https://www.amazon.com/s?k=rv+tank+h...l_24v2u08spv_e

[Lloyd]

Originally Posted by Lew

Unless I’m missing something, I have to say I am less than impressed with this extreme weather package.

One night at 25 degrees and fresh water tank froze. I had the heater running all day and night. Dealer told me there were heat ducts directly to the holding tanks.

I’m a little bummed because the extreme weather package played a large part in choosing this rv.

Lew

2021 Sunset Trail SS222RB

We have been out in the fall many times when the temps were 25 degrees and colder.
I'll knock on wood first---but---we have NEVER experienced any frozen water lines, or tanks.
We don't run the furnace all that much either. We have an electric space heater that supplies most of our heat.
The heater sits in the back of the rig close to a floor heat run. Which is open. I always open the cupboard doors in the vicinity. This is all directly over the fresh water tank, and the cupboard doors that I have open is direct access to to back of water heater, water pump, and line coming up from fresh water tank.
You might try opening your cupboard doors so air and heat can circulate a little better.


If you enjoy camping in the fall, get out there and do it. Experiment a little so heat gets to the necessary places. It works for me and it works for many others, so I think it can work for you also.

[travelin texans]

There's another normal occurrence with rv life, all the tank sensors are notorious for being useless. The fw is usually somewhat close, but the black/grey will likely read whatever they do now from now on regardless of chemicals, flushing, bags of ice or any other miracle cure you may read about.

[Lew]

Thanks for the replies. It’s definitely between the tank and the pump. If I disconnect the tank from the pump, the pump will try to build pressure and air will come out the taps. This next week is supposed to warm up. Hope it will thaw out.

[Ramn4ver]

Extreme weather package. Only works if you live on AZ. We always leave the the water faucet dripping a little water when it gets that cold. Anything under 32°. Be sure to leave your grey tank valve open also.

[Tonyg2724]

We have almost the same unit as you with the so called “extreme weather” package. Just got back from a hunting trip with temps in the teens.
Knock on wood - nothing froze. Try opening your FW tank drain valve a little to see if any water comes out. My guess is your pump inlet line froze.

[Danimal713]

Originally Posted by Lew

Unless I’m missing something, I have to say I am less than impressed with this extreme weather package.

One night at 25 degrees and fresh water tank froze. I had the heater running all day and night. Dealer told me there were heat ducts directly to the holding tanks.

I’m a little bummed because the extreme weather package played a large part in choosing this rv.

Lew

2021 Sunset Trail SS222RB

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Oh I so totally agree! I was very disappointed in the findings as I explore our new-to-us Sunset 291RK with extreme weather package. It is a 2017 and according to PO was only used 3 times by first buyers then traded in to a local dealer where he purchased and used for one week on Myrtle Beach. It still smells "new" inside. First upgrade was the very-lacking bath fan in the vent. I replaced with a Vortex fan. When I had the vent trim off I could see inside the roof. There was a single strip of fiberglas insulation just laying in the cavity!!! Lame indeed. I am plotting ways to remedy. I am thinking pull all the vents and skylight and AC trims and should be able to blow in some insulation. We also camped couple weekends ago near Catalloochee NC to view the elk in rut. It got down very cold overnight and the tank I was linked had propane but an unknown amount but had some haft when I checked prior to departure. We drained that tank overnight and I awoke at 6AM to 48 F inside camper! BURRRR!!! I switched to other tank which was full. The next night was same temps but a full tank so did not run out but I weighed tank when we got home and had used over 1/2 of a 20 lb tank! So no I am not impressed with the "extreme weather (NOT!) package. But then I built a passive solar log home in Northern IL in 1989 that almost met insulation standards today- (we have since escaped from IL to TN almost 6 years ago).
Yes I still need to update profile/signature with camper and tow vehicle once I figure how. But I had to join the rant on this so called package. It is extreme but in a very negative way. Oh and for a camper with so little use, all side seals on the slide are ripped and coming off. The type they are the slide would need to be pulled to replace (need a forklift to get it out). I purchased a different type that had an adhesive strip and need to modify by cuttine the blade to proper length so it seals well without too much to flip back and forth and stress the blade attachment to the base and cause same problem. Quality overall is weak but I am real good at fixing/modifying things and we basically stole the camper so it is all good. BTW, I sold a 15 year hybred 24 foot in 4 hours! I had 13 people wanting it and 4 wanted to come right away. The people that first showed up bought it. They we from near Birmingham AL but were already near Knoxville checking a camper and passed on it. They have 11 kids from 4-24. Well nuff ranting. We have been out 4 times already and one more trip planned Nov 7-8 up in Cades Cove where we will do some more hiking trying to knock out the 900 mile maps for hiking the Smokies! Even as much as I already know, this (and many other) forum is a great resource. The more I know, the less I realize I do.

[dagst1]

Just a little tip - leave both gas tanks turned on that way the change over valve will change from the empty tank to the full one. Just remember to check so you can fill the empty.

[Danimal713]

Originally Posted by dagst1

Just a little tip - leave both gas tanks turned on that way the change over valve will change from the empty tank to the full one. Just remember to check so you can fill the empty.

Yes I should have added a comment about leaving the valve on 2nd tank open. I am aware the regulator will switch over to 2nd tank when 1st empties but don't trust it yet. How do I know it did that so I know to go fill the empty tank?
And after last camping weekend with tamps close to freezing, we burnt through just over 1/2 of a 20 lb tank overnight (holy camolie!). I plan to upgrade to 30 lb tanks but still, this thing is more thirsty than my truck! Last camper we had 15 years (actually bought same exact model after first was wrecked in a retread in the road incident- no one hurt but a scary story for another time). I like the feature to switch over but am thinkin' I'll end up with 2 empty tanks when I need them the most. I still need to read more about that valve switching over and figure something to alert me I just switch tanks. Thanks for the tip but am aware already. But there is that pesky trust issue........ As Regan said, trust but verify!

[dagst1]

We are in our camper now and last night it got down to 36 and the furnace ran quite a bit but we also use a electric space heater. As for the change over i check ours every morning - if its red i pull that bottle and get it filled (30# bottles). I also carry a 20# for the grill i could use just in case. One thing to remember is you can exchange a 20# anywhere but you have to have a 30# filled and sometimes that can be a challenge - thus my 20# spare.

[Tonyg2724]

You might also consider this propane tank monitoring system. I bought this when I got our new rig and LOVE it. I’ve checked them several times to verify their accuracy and they are spot on. Only thing to remember is the transmitter gets mounted to the bottom of the tanks magnetically. So if you exchange tanks, don’t forget to remove the sensor!!

[travelin texans]

Originally Posted by Ramn4ver

Extreme weather package. Only works if you live on AZ. We always leave the the water faucet dripping a little water when it gets that cold. Anything under 32°. Be sure to leave your grey tank valve open also.

That extreme package will work in Arizona for 3 seasons, but not in the summer, it'll never get cool.
I don't there's a true "4 seasons" rv built, you'll either freeze in the winter or melt in the summer, but there's nothing like the lifestyle.

[Danimal713]

Originally Posted by Tonyg2724

You might also consider this propane tank monitoring system. I bought this when I got our new rig and LOVE it. I’ve checked them several times to verify their accuracy and they are spot on. Only thing to remember is the transmitter gets mounted to the bottom of the tanks magnetically. So if you exchange tanks, don’t forget to remove the sensor!!

Can you please provide more info about the propane monitoring system? A link would be loverly. I did find some info about the switchover system and see how it "notifies" that the primary tank ...well tanked (sorry I am a father of four and cannot resist anything even closely resembling a dad-joke!).
I plan to switch over to 30# tanks but not quite yet. We won't be traveling for longer periods until 3 years when wifie also retires. I have 7 20# tanks and am planning to carry a spare for same reasons as mentioned previously. I modified the camper to supply propane to the grill that mounts on the rear bumper (not while traveling). There was a fitting already there but wrong for the grill. When grill gets replaced both sizes are already there. The outside kitchen is at rear by the inside kitchen. My brain is already working on a carrier system to carry the spare tank on camper and not in rear of truck. We will see.......
On a positive note, we have a site reserved in Cades Cove next weekend. We did an 8 mile hike yesterday there also but came from Townsend side so we didn't have to fight the traffic. Next weekend the hike is supposed to be 15 (YIKES! I am almost certain wifie is trying to kill me and collect the insurance money).

[mark5w]

Here's a link to the monitor system.
https://www.amazon.com/AP-Products-1...ag=googhydr-20

[Wingerdinger]

I am going to chime in here to lend a positive experience to the post.
I have had a fair amount of campers over the years.
We went from a tent to an older travel trailer, parked in a seasonal spot, in the early eighties. I live in Minnesota, so we see freezing temperatures six months a year. We have been caught not getting winterized in that old Jayco more than once, and it only took a few hours of below freezing while we were staying in it, to freeze exposed belly water lines. Inside the camper was warm, but it took a lot of propane to keep it that way.
Fast forward to our 2015 Sunset Trail with the Extreme Weather Package. We have been in temperatures in the teens more than once, with no issues.
We have the fireplace that we use to supplement the heat, and it helps to reduce the propane use.
9 days ago, we were in far north Minnesota on an annual 4-wheeling trip, and the first night it got to 17 degrees. The high was 36 for the day. It was in the low 20s the next night. We didn't hook up to water, and used the fresh water tank.
We had no issues the whole 3 day weekend, and used less than a 30 lb propane tank.
Now, I have taken steps to help out the insulation. The coroplast began to sag, so I reinforced it with aluminum angle stock and sealed up the many gaps and holes.. you'd be amazed how big and how many there are when you crawl under there. I verified that were was actually a fair amount of insulation in the ceiling when I replaced my two roof vents with Maxxairs. It snowed 7 inches on day 2 of our last trip, and we had all of that on there until it warmed up two days later.
All in all, I think the insulation is a lot better than any older unit I have ever had. We were comfortable, and had no water or tank issues, except the grey water tank valves froze because they were exposed to the outside.

[Tonyg2724]

The link mark posted is the monitoring system I use. (Thanks Mark!)
Very happy with that purchase.

[Danimal713]

I finished adding/modifying the "Extreme Weather Package" on our new-to-us 291RK Sunset Trails. The corrugated plastic sheet on this camper was about 30' long and 6' wide and attached to the frame rails. I cut it into 6 sections just over 5' each and about 42" for last two at rear. I had some close cell foam rolls of insulation left over from adding insulation to my shop and this was a perfect fit. I cut 8" x 4' sections and attached to the inside of the frame rails and used silver heating duct tape to attach after I pushed it tight so the bottom would seat on the inner ridge of the frame rail I-beam all around. Then I used foam in a can to seal up the holes in the floor where electrical and water pipes go from belly to inside the camper. Several were about 10" x 10" holes and I could feel the cold ait migrating inside (cold air can move up!). I also used the foam pipe insulation to enclose the hot & cold water line runs in the underbelly. I used tie wraps just snugged to keep them closed and in place. I also cleaned up the messy electrical wiring that was helter-skelter across the top of the underbelly sheet using more tie wraps to keep them in neat bundles/runs. Then I ran the sheets of insulation across between the frame rails. Loosely encapsulating the underbelly. Part of this "package" was a heat duct directly from furnace shooting heat into the underbelly- well in a manner of speaking. On this camper it is a 2" duct that dangled into the underbelly beneath the furnace. It was however directly behind the rear gray water tank. Not much heat would get past it to provide any warmth to the other tanks further forward and general heat into the underbelly area. So yes my accurate assessment of this package is sales BS. I used 1 1/2" PVC pipe to route past the rear tank into the center area of the underbelly. I drilled 1/2" holes spaced about 15" apart then twisted the drill at an angle to direct some air out in the direction it was being pushed for better dispurtion into the underbelly. I also wrapped the 2 metal floor ducts in insulation & tape. I have a couple 75' rolls of EternaBond tape en route to complete the sealing. I will tape the seams then perimeter. The other purpose besides insulation was vermin control. No access holes makes it much more difficult for small vermin to get in (small vermin called grandchildren are welcome through normal entrances!).
Here are some pictures I took while in process. It is a little difficult to see the sheets of insulation going between the frame rails- I should have taken a last picture prior to putting on the last two rear panels showing the silver sheets in place. I taped where I could but it isn't perfect. Access to some places around the tanks was a bit tight.
The first two are as I found things once sheet was removed. Last are the after pictures prior to sheet insulation. In (I believe) 3rd picture can be seen the sheet of insulation just above the black bottom sheathing.
In 4th picture can be seen the PVC pipe routing some warm air forward around the rear gray water tank.
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