Gunnerm60, there are a number of “harbor freight inverter generator” Youtube reviews you can take a look at. Last summer I studied this quite a bit and ended up buying the Westinghouse iGen 4500. I'm happy with the unit. There are a number of things I learned in this process that I've been meaning to share so now's as good a time as any. I'll try and keep this as short as possible.
My RV is a 50 amp travel trailer, not a 5th wheel. All 50 amp RVs are actually two 50 amp circuits (not just 2 circuits sharing 50 amps). So, a 50 amp service is actually 100 amp service into the RV.
The Honda and Yamaha generators generate a true 120v output. Pretty much ALL of the other generators (including mine) produce a +60/-60 volt signal. That’s +60 on the hot leg and -60 on the ground leg (not the neutral). As far as your appliances are concerned this is 120v. Both signals are acceptable and all your appliances don't know the difference and will work normally. The only time this (+60/-60) is a problem is if you have installed a power monitor system to protect your RV from overvoltage or undervoltage OR the dangerous open neutral line that sometimes happens in campgrounds. This open neutral problem is not really a concern with 30 amp RVs but can kill your appliances on 50 amp RVs. But, that's a topic for a different thread.
I installed this power monitor system (Hughes Autoformers PWD50-EPO) just before adding the generator. The power monitor system worked great, until I tried to use it with the generator. The power monitor would not allow the RV to power up when connected to the generator. Turns out, this is because it’s not a true 120v. The power monitor detects the -60v on the ground line and it says there’s a problem. I talked with engineers at both Westinghouse and Hughes and after weeks of discussion I concluded that I could not use the power monitor when I’m running off the generator. Neither company is interested in finding a solution to this problem. I now only use the power monitor when connected to shore power. (BTW, I’m a retired electrical engineer and have designed stuff like this while working at Compaq and Motorola.)
1. I got the 4500 watt generator which will still only run 1 air conditioner, but it will also run the microwave at the same time even at 9000’ elevation. (maybe your wife will remember to turn off the A/C when she wants to run the microwave)
2. A 2200 watt generator weights about 50 lbs, the 4500 watt weighs about 100 lbs.
3. Generators loose about 10% of their power for every 3000' feet of elevation, so at 9000' my 4500 watt generator is really a 3100 watt generator. A 2200 watt would be a 1500 watt.
4. You will rarely use your generator. You’ll actually have to create reasons to run it.
5. I installed a 48”x22” patio storage box on the back of my camper and carry the generator in it. I cut an access hole in the side of the box for exhaust to exit and I have run the generator for hours in this box with the lid closed. I installed a sliding metal door I can open for the exhaust. I can even run the generator while driving down the highway and I have done this a couple of times to start cooling it down as we get near a campsite.
6. Adding the generator and box to the rear of the camper reduced tongue weight by about 150 lbs. Caution: adding weight to the rear of you RV can bring you closer to producing dangerous sway if you’re not careful. I ran a bunch of experiments by starting with 640 lbs of concrete bags loaded on the rear of the RV and then removed them one at a time until I found a weight distribution ratio that worked well for me without increasing sway. I removed the metal rack and doubled the steel so it will carry at least 400lbs instead of the rated 200lbs.
This is the way I approached this topic. I’ll add a photo of the box, the generator is in the box. (Sorry, I can’t figure out how to upload this photo with it rotating).
Here’s some helpful links if you want to take the time: