hot water drain plug

[travelin texans]

Originally Posted by Stan

PattyV - I simple got a quarter turn Boiler drain and added a real short pipe nipple between the valve and tank. I can still close the W/H cover door but when it drains it flows onto the open door and then onto the ground.

If you have an Atwood water heater this will work.
If you have a Suburban it MUST have the anode rod or risk tank failure from corrosion.

[DavisK]

I still use the nylon plug and pull it when I winterize so I can rinse out the tank with one of these: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B002XL2IBS.

[Stan]

Dagst1 - I have an Atwood GC10A-4E and the drain is below the gas line/Control valve. The Boiler drain handle does touch the underside of the CV but I can still open the drain. Must be a difference in your W/H and mine.

[jmnsn57]

I raised my corrosion point as help for you folks in this thread. Hard water and Soft water locations are an issue here as well. There is another thread on this forum - which I cannot currently find about white stuff, lime, hard deposits, and etc. blocking the faucet screens, shower heads, and needing to purge hot water tanks. The white effluent causing problems is likely the precipitates from the condition I explained. To be clear, I suggest you refer to the tables I posted prior for reactivity if you are experiencing problems. Teflon tape or thread seal DO NOT alleviate the problem. The close proximity of materials and tearing of these sealants render this solution possibly ineffective based on too many other factors.

[Russb]

I received an answer from Atwood about using a brass drain plug and was told that there would be no problems and it was a common practice.

[RC3]

i had a drain valve on my old RV but sometimes sediment accumulated in the tank from certain water sources, (I sometimes fill with well water) and the sediment doesn't always come out through the valve. Now that I just use the plastic plug (using the same one for 12 years) enough turbulence is created to clear out the sediment, especially when I pop open the release valve to allow air to replace the water being drained. And I don't use teflon tape, I find the malleability of the plastic plug by the pressure of being screwed is enough to make a leak proof seal. oh, and it an atwood so doesn't need an anode rod.

[JimHanus]

I also use a valve in place of the plug. No problems in 6 years. It's a tight fit, lever moves down to close.

[Bud1750]

Originally Posted by Lloyd

Not sure if it caused any damage to the tank or not, but yes put a regular drain plug back in.
I suppose you will find out over time if it done any harm.
How long was it in there?

I left mine in for a year and it twisted in two when I went to take it out. Just drive the pieces on in to the water heater with a screw driver. It won’t hurt anything...just dissolves eventually. Got that info from my RV TECH. I did this and had no problem this summer with the water heater.