I guess that I'll add my 2 cents eh. First there was a query as to whether your tank was full or if the tank valving is correct. To check out if you have water in the tank, connect your trailer to the city water system and pressurise the system. Open the outside cover to your water heater and lift the tank relief valve lever slightly. If you get water shooting out, then its full, but if you get air then it's likely empty. If you get nowateror air then it's probablyvalved out or service.This littletest should be all you need toknow to determinewhat to do.
1:If the tank is full, you need to check thetankvalving at the back ofthetank. Here is a picture of the valving onour5vr.The valving should be the same on yours. Note the summer and winter valving positions. To have hot water, set your valving for the Summer positions. (disregard the braided hose because that's an addition that I installed)
2: If your valving is OK and the WH is full of water, then attempt to run it on gas. If it works on gas them it verifies that your 12 volt circuitry is ok and it's time to look at the electric element.The very first thing to do is to check the WH element breaker. A tripped breaker can be deceiving, because even though it is tripped, it may look like it's closed and working. Turn off the WH breaker and if it was tripped, it will be reset to allow reclosure. While the breaker is open, open the WH element connection box and check the heater element for continuity with a multimeter on the OHMS scale. If it's ok, you should get a reading ofabout 10 to 20 ohms. The other check that you need to make is from one of the element leads to ground. It should read "infinite" onall the OHMS scales. If all appears to be ok as I described, then your WH element is ok, ifNOT, thenin all likelihood, the element is toast.If the element is bad, replace it; if it appears ok,reclose your WH breaker and wait a while to see if you have any hot water been produced.
I hope that this helps resolve your problem.
Edited by: Hamops