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Old 05-10-2014, 11:59 AM   #21
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I always touch my gas vehicles with my hands to eliminate static electricity first before touching the nozzle to the vehicle filler.

Better to be extra cautious.
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Old 05-10-2014, 01:07 PM   #22
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So. True electrical shocks and little sparks can happen easily. I also did forget about the copper to the water heater.
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Old 05-10-2014, 03:43 PM   #23
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I rarely turn the frig. off while refueling. IMO there is a bigger risk at the pumps from static electricity, cell phone operation, smoking and running engines/hot exhaust than from the frig. Years ago, RV didn't have ignitors but pilot lights. First fifth wheel we owned had pilot lights for the furnace, water heater and frig. It was a pain having to light the furnace and water heater each evening. The frig. pilot light was on 100% of the time, for weeks at a time when we were on the road.
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Old 05-10-2014, 07:08 PM   #24
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Larry, I would say you are a lucky man.
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Old 05-11-2014, 08:03 AM   #25
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For almost 30 years the fridge is always on propane when we are on the road and so far never had a problem. We followed Greg Paine's lead and made a modification to our 2005 29RK that allows you to turn off the fridge without having to go into the unit to do so. Not sure why I haven't done it to the 335SS but think that I will. The instructions are very simple and are below. You can see all of the modifications that Greg made to his 2005 CF29RK here: http://www.gregpaine.com/cr/

Paine's Pointers
# 040 Outside Fridge Switch
Time Required


I prefer not to do it but there are times when we travel with the fridge running on LPG. Some folks say they do it all the time and others say it is unsafe. Regardless, when it’s time to fuel up the fridge must be shut off prior to pulling up to the pumps then turned back on after pulling away. With our CF29RK floorplan this is a pain in the butt because you have to crawl over the countertop to get to the switch. I had thought about installing a switch outside somewhere but never got around to it. While replacing the broken lower control board I decided to install a switch and it turned out to be a simple job. I’ve used it once and it was great. Just pull over, run back, flip the switch and you’re ready to go.

NAPA was in the neighborhood so I bought the switch there. I also bought a weatherproof boot to help protect the switch from the elements. My pictures don’t show it but there is a 4 post terminal block for the 12VDC connections; a pos and neg from the battery and a pos and neg going to the fridge. I disconnected the pos going to the fridge and connected it to the switch; I added a wire from the terminal block to the switch.

Parts List:
  • NAPA switch – part # TG6260
  • NAPA switch boot – TG6571
  • 18” of 14 gauge wire


I didn’t want to install the switch in the cover because it would be a problem to remove the cover; I’d either have to disconnect the wires each time or use wires long enough to allow the cover to sit on the bumper; neither ideal. I mounted the switch in this corner so the factory wire would reach without extending it. The switch fit perfectly into the corner; close enough to the latch for support, far enough away from the latch to not interfere.


The tip of the switch sticks out thru the hole in the cover.



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Old 05-11-2014, 08:48 AM   #26
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Larry, I would say you are a lucky man.
Lloyd, Not really, traveling in very hot weather or long distances, like I do, it is just trading one risk against another risk. And with those old refers w/o ignitors, it was a major pain to restart them. Pull the outside vent cover, turn the gas valve to 'pilot', strike a match while pushing the valve, then turn the gas valve to 'on', finally reinstalling the outside vent. High winds or rain just added to the problem.

Now days, the diesel vehicle next to you will have a hot exhaust pipe much closer to any gas fumes and fully able to ignite them.
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Old 05-12-2014, 02:14 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gball View Post
For almost 30 years the fridge is always on propane when we are on the road and so far never had a problem. We followed Greg Paine's lead and made a modification to our 2005 29RK that allows you to turn off the fridge without having to go into the unit to do so. Not sure why I haven't done it to the 335SS but think that I will. The instructions are very simple and are below. You can see all of the modifications that Greg made to his 2005 CF29RK here: http://www.gregpaine.com/cr/

Paine's Pointers
# 040 Outside Fridge Switch
Time Required


I prefer not to do it but there are times when we travel with the fridge running on LPG. Some folks say they do it all the time and others say it is unsafe. Regardless, when it’s time to fuel up the fridge must be shut off prior to pulling up to the pumps then turned back on after pulling away. With our CF29RK floorplan this is a pain in the butt because you have to crawl over the countertop to get to the switch. I had thought about installing a switch outside somewhere but never got around to it. While replacing the broken lower control board I decided to install a switch and it turned out to be a simple job. I’ve used it once and it was great. Just pull over, run back, flip the switch and you’re ready to go.

NAPA was in the neighborhood so I bought the switch there. I also bought a weatherproof boot to help protect the switch from the elements. My pictures don’t show it but there is a 4 post terminal block for the 12VDC connections; a pos and neg from the battery and a pos and neg going to the fridge. I disconnected the pos going to the fridge and connected it to the switch; I added a wire from the terminal block to the switch.

Parts List:
  • NAPA switch – part # TG6260
  • NAPA switch boot – TG6571
  • 18” of 14 gauge wire


I didn’t want to install the switch in the cover because it would be a problem to remove the cover; I’d either have to disconnect the wires each time or use wires long enough to allow the cover to sit on the bumper; neither ideal. I mounted the switch in this corner so the factory wire would reach without extending it. The switch fit perfectly into the corner; close enough to the latch for support, far enough away from the latch to not interfere.


The tip of the switch sticks out thru the hole in the cover.




This is a good idea. Kudos

Can I use a 12v lighted waterproof rocker switch? I'd like the idea of a lighted rocker, just not sure the line to the fridge is 12v or 110v.
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Old 05-12-2014, 02:21 PM   #28
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This is a good idea. Kudos

Can I use a 12v lighted waterproof rocker switch? I'd like the idea of a lighted rocker, just not sure the line to the fridge is 12v or 110v.

George knows!!
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Old 05-12-2014, 04:05 PM   #29
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I think that any type of 12 volt switch would work. Just a matter of preference as to which one you would want to use.
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Old 05-13-2014, 08:57 AM   #30
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I think that any type of 12 volt switch would work. Just a matter of preference as to which one you would want to use.

Thanks,

I can't tell from the photo...can you throw the switch without removing the cover?
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Old 05-13-2014, 09:14 AM   #31
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I'm assuming yes . why else would it be sticking out. hhmmm

I have also seen one with the switch just inside ,and one of the little vent pieces cut out to get your finger in to shut off and turn on with out taking cover off.
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Old 05-13-2014, 10:35 AM   #32
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Boy this has become a hot topic here. I decided to Google any info I could find on rv fire statistics.
There's between 3,000 and 4,000 rv insurance claims per year but I could not find a single incident where a fire was created specifically due to traveling with a refrig connected to propane.
I'm sure there must some but after 30 minutes of searching. Not a thing.

There are incidents of refrig fires because of old line leaks, rodents and wires, Diesel engine fires under the hood, etc, but nothing tied to driving with the refrig on?

Not to say I'm advocating driving with it on or off, but I'd expect to see some statistics to validated the problem. Nothing!

I'm not sure it's truly as big of an issue as thought to be.
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Old 05-13-2014, 10:58 AM   #33
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Bob,

Your probably right. I'm risk adverse. 10 bucks in parts and half hour of my time, hey why tempt fate, right?
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Old 05-13-2014, 12:54 PM   #34
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If you're going to put a switch out there I'd think about two things - security around someone turning it on/off without me knowing. Also maybe make the switch so there is some type of indicator if it's on - led etc?
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Old 05-13-2014, 01:11 PM   #35
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The switch that Greg installed is a simple toggle switch and it is operated without taking the vent cover off. Very easy to tell if it is off or on by the location of the lever. I never had anyone bother the unit on the 29RK. Doesn't mean that someone wouldn't, but unless they knew what it was for why would they? Since it is visible a quick check would assure that it was on.
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Old 05-13-2014, 02:12 PM   #36
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Not advocating either, but am guilty of doing it. However, I was checking my tanks earlier and noticed right on the front cap is a sticker that says gas should be turned off during refueling. Also noticed that connecter to full tank was broke. Without the safety valve that would have let that entire tank empty. It did not and tank was still full. Took it off and went to dealer and got a replacement.
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Old 05-20-2016, 04:18 AM   #37
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I would agree with Dayle1
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