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Old 11-17-2011, 02:29 AM   #1
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Hi All,

I'd like to share an experience we had at a campground last month. I don't recall the name, I can check with the DW who always knows that stuff. It was in GA.



I hooked up the electric to the 35RL. Then, I let the DW know it was OK to put the slide-outs out. The electric bed room one was very slow and got slower as it went. It finally got all the way open and I thought I might have to take a look at it when we got back and possibly take it in for repair.



Later that evening, the DW needed to use the microwave. It was not working. I checked the outlet with a lamp and found that it was dead. I checked the fuse and it was OK. Wow! Another problem with trip number 2. I got an extension cord and got the microwave going.



The next day while the DW was getting her beauty sleep, I looked at the microwave probelm again. This time I got out the meter and started checking things. When I got to the Power Center, I found no ACon one side of the box. This side of the box controls the converter, the microwave and the water heater. Hmm.



Looks like I wasn't getting one leg of power from the 50A plug. Luckily, I had a 50 to 30 dogbone. I put it in place and viola the power was restored to both sides of the breaker box. The power pole at the camp site was only putting out one side of theA/C to the 50a amp outlet. I checked and both breakers were tied together and in the on position.



I now am thinking that I'll add some type of meter or meters that will show the AC voltage on both sides of the Control Center.



Craig

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Old 11-17-2011, 05:20 AM   #2
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I just had the same problem at home. Loose wire on outlight.
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Old 11-17-2011, 08:30 AM   #3
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Just be thankful it wasn't the ground wire that was open, then you would have had 240v instead of 120v and fried a few things. Really important to verify shore power before plugging in, or have an effective surge protector when dealing with 50 amp service.
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Old 11-17-2011, 09:21 AM   #4
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if you can share the name of the park,live in ga.and visit lot's of ga. parks also have noticed similar problems at some state parks
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Old 11-17-2011, 09:27 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dayle1
Just be thankful it wasn't the ground wire that was open, then you would have had 240v instead of 120v and fried a few things. Really important to verify shore power before plugging in, or have an effective surge protector when dealing with 50 amp service.
I could be wrong, sure wouldnt be the first time, but I believe the "neutral" wire is the one to cause you to put 240 on your camper. Ground should never normally have power/current on it. JMHO
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Old 11-17-2011, 09:30 AM   #6
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Yep,it was quite an eye opener. I've been shopping around and reading up on the different devices that protect the AC input. There are several types. And, as I said before, I'm going to put in a couple of meters to see the two legs of my 50A service. BTW, with 30A service you'd only need one meter.



You know, with the amount of money these TTs cost and the years and years of known problems with CG wiring, you'd think these units would come with devices designed and chosen by engineers that would protect us. We have to do the research ourselves. I've heard tons of stories about people that have blown up stuff just by not being a seasoned camper. The new campers have to learn the hard way unless they are fortunate enough to learn by other people's experiences.





I'm going to search through the forum and see if there has been a topic about this. If so maybe I'll get enough info to install these things. If there's no topics on this I'll open a new one up and we can discuss what can be done. Or, if anyone already has some expertise on this subject they can chime in and enlighten us.



Thanks goodness for these forums.

Thanks,



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Old 11-17-2011, 09:50 AM   #7
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Glad things did not turn out worse.....I have also been researching some power protection items, but have not made any decisions as of yet.....figure I have until March....



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Old 11-17-2011, 10:54 AM   #8
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casmith, here is a link. I think it pertains to what you are wondering about.
http://www.crossroadsrv.com/forum/fo...=2154&PN=1



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Old 11-17-2011, 08:53 PM   #9
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I check the post before pluging in with a meter. You can check 50a by putting the meter in the lowest plug and checking for 120v to the left side and then the right. Then check for 240v between the left and right. then check for zero between the left and right to the top plug (ground). If your meater has a hard time getting to the prongs in the plug you can get a replacement plug and drill small hole for the meter leads over the connectors in the plug.
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Old 11-17-2011, 09:51 PM   #10
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I'm pretty sure it was the Flint River KOA in Bainbridge, GA.
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Old 11-17-2011, 11:08 PM   #11
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I had kind of the same problem at Meramac Caverns in Mo, plug in and everything seemed to work ok, turned on TV and it would come on then go off, had DW try Microwave and it came on ok, New FW so thought maybe TV was on the Fritz, then plugged in our ceramic heater and it would only run at low speed. DW went to heat up coffee in Microwave and it would run but not heat up. Then I put 2 and 2 together and checked voltage at pole, it was around 90v, guy next to me was having same problem. Ranger happen to come by and said where we were at about two times a year it floods and outlets are under water. Come to find out contacts were corroded, tried a different outlet and it worked ok. same for guy next to me. Glad it wasnt summer and tried using A/C it could have damaged that.

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Old 11-18-2011, 12:35 AM   #12
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You'relucky nothing was damaged. I'm researching as we speak. For surge protection I've settled on the Progressive Industries HW50C. I'm looking for the best price now. For voltage boost, I'm leaning toward the Powermaster VC-50.



If anyone has comments on these products or any others I'd appreciate it.



FWIW, I've read that you go through the booster 1st then through the surge protector.



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Old 11-18-2011, 12:35 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GaPete
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dayle1
Just be thankful it wasn't the ground wire that was open, then you would have had 240v instead of 120v and fried a few things. Really important to verify shore power before plugging in, or have an effective surge protector when dealing with 50 amp service.
I could be wrong, sure wouldnt be the first time, but I believe the "neutral" wire is the one to cause you to put 240 on your camper. Ground should never normally have power/current on it. JMHO




GAPete,

Yes, You wouldneed two 110vlegs to get the 220 voltage. No ground here. If ground was truly ground in the box, you would only use one of the two 110legs and still only get 110v.

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Old 11-18-2011, 05:48 AM   #14
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casmith
thanks
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Old 11-18-2011, 07:43 AM   #15
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One good reason to get a power conditioner. Just a few days ago I plugged mine in and it showed reverse polarity. It prevented the power from tuning on. This is apotentiallydeadly condition.
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Old 11-18-2011, 11:15 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GaPete
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dayle1
Just be thankful it wasn't the ground wire that was open, then you would have had 240v instead of 120v and fried a few things. Really important to verify shore power before plugging in, or have an effective surge protector when dealing with 50 amp service.
I could be wrong, sure wouldnt be the first time, but I believe the "neutral" wire is the one to cause you to put 240 on your camper. Ground should never normally have power/current on it. JMHO

You are right, I was being loose using "ground", something that is more familiar than "neutral" to most people. On the other hand, 240v is already in the camper normally and since the RV lacks an earth ground, faulty wiring at the cg or power cord can result in 240v on a 120v circuit. That was the main point. By comparison, 30 amp setups only have 120v inside the RV.
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