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Old 03-14-2021, 05:32 PM   #21
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Those who recommend running on underinflated tires need to think back to the problem of the Ford Explorer when recommended tire pressures were incorrectly labeled. Underinflated tires will run hotter than than normal, thus causing tire fatigue and premature failure.


Look it up on line.
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Old 03-14-2021, 07:39 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hollardawg45 View Post
Those who recommend running on underinflated tires need to think back to the problem of the Ford Explorer when recommended tire pressures were incorrectly labeled. Underinflated tires will run hotter than than normal, thus causing tire fatigue and premature failure.
.
I totally agree! Under pressure tires are the biggest reason for tire problems, especailly blowouts. My trailer is rated for 6ply at 65 PSI, but I chose to spend a few dollars a tire more for 10ply and run them atl the recommended 80 PSI. It may seem to be overkill, but I think they are less than $10/tire and well worth the added safety and peace of mind.
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Old 03-15-2021, 07:16 AM   #23
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I totally agree! Under pressure tires are the biggest reason for tire problems, especailly blowouts. My trailer is rated for 6ply at 65 PSI, but I chose to spend a few dollars a tire more for 10ply and run them atl the recommended 80 PSI. It may seem to be overkill, but I think they are less than $10/tire and well worth the added safety and peace of mind.
I did the same. As the saying goes: “Better to be safe than sorry”.
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Old 03-15-2021, 08:39 AM   #24
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Just a follow-up, tires manufacturer didn't find a time to respond me yet but Crossroads did and they recommend running 65 PSI.

Moreover, as it appears even a manual is addressing this issue by defining the "cold tire" pressure as one that "has not been driven on for at least three hours" and foreseeing the tire temperature and pressure increase as driven. And so 63-65 PSI is what I'll be setting and look for replacement tires should a good deal pop out somewhere.
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Old 03-15-2021, 09:34 AM   #25
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Now I will be the first to admit, everyone is entitled to their opinion.
With that being said, I have to respectfully disagree with you on your statements on tire pressure. I won’t name you guys or even quote you. You know who you are.


This is the way I see it.
If your load is as heavy, or close to the max weight rating on the sidewall of your tire, then by all means you should be running max PSI.
If you have upped the ply rating on your trailer tires from what came with it, and your trailer is not at or even close to the weight rating on the sidewall of that new tire, you don’t need max PSI.
For you none believers, go online to the Good Year tire site and check it out for yourself.
The tires on your trailer are also an extension of that trailers suspension. They are suppose to be able to give and flex to a certain degree. If you pump them up so they’re hard as rock, where is the flex? You will just being adding to the earth quake that’s already happening every time you hook up and tow down our wonderful highways.
You might just as well put steel wheels on, like the old farm hay racks use to have.
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Old 03-15-2021, 09:37 AM   #26
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Originally Posted by ugauga View Post
Just a follow-up, tires manufacturer didn't find a time to respond me yet but Crossroads did and they recommend running 65 PSI.



Moreover, as it appears even a manual is addressing this issue by defining the "cold tire" pressure as one that "has not been driven on for at least three hours" and foreseeing the tire temperature and pressure increase as driven. And so 63-65 PSI is what I'll be setting and look for replacement tires should a good deal pop out somewhere.
They said: "has not been driven on for at least three hours" because they want the tires to be at ambient air temp when you inflate them to 65 PSI.. this is a completely normal statement and your automobile manufacturer will tell you the same thing about your car or truck tires.

IMHO.. you're totally on borrowed time there with those tires. I wouldn't pull that trailer any further than your local tire shop and even with that I wouldn't exceed anything over about 45.

I've seen firsthand what damage a blown tire can do. It's not pretty and you may end up hurting someone else in the process.
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Old 03-15-2021, 10:07 AM   #27
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Just an example: 2008 GMC 2500hd tire size LT265/70R 17 load range E. Max inflation pressure on tire - 80 psi. Label on door Front 60 psi Rear 72 psi. In the owners manual it states that rear pressure can be reduced for a more comfortable ride not below front recommended psi but should run at recommended psi for load capacity.

Also as Lloyd stated running at over the campers rated pressure will NOT increase load carrying capacity unless you also change the axles and springs. And remember the frame was designed with a load rating based on the tire /axles/springs.

Running 10 ply/load range E tires will not hurt anything. Running them at max pressure will eventually lead to problem's.

Ultimately its your camper so run the pressure at what you want. But when the wife starts complaining about can goods falling out of the cabinets remember may be lower is better. - Been There Done That!!
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Old 03-18-2021, 09:28 PM   #28
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re: Tire Pressure/ Load ratings

Quote:
Originally Posted by ugauga View Post
Being paranoid about blowout I run 58 PSI cold, monitored by TireMinder.

Sticker on the trailer states load and rating at 65 PSI
Cold inflation pressure on the sticker "65 PSI - single"
Sterling Sport ST 205/75R14 Load rating D tires - max pressure 65 PSI

On a 7525 GVWR trailer I have 2515 LBS for cargo, most likely I rarely reach 50% of that. Obviously as I'm driving the tires warm up, pressure goes up. Tires were made mid 2017 per the DOT.

I try to avoid going over the max pressure of the tire at any time but doesn't that seem odd that the max tire pressure equals to the one of the cold inflation pressure from the stickers?

What does the "Single" from the sticker refers to?

What pressure would you run/recommend?

(The pictures come upside down regardless of what I do...)
Biggest enemy of tires is LOW pressure/ overload, which gives INTERNAL DAMAGE, which can result in a ZIPPER RUPTURE of the sidewall (BLOWOUT). Re: (On the tires I run), dropping PSI by 10-PSI on rear duallies drops axle capacity by 1000# (+/-) REFER to any tire pressure/load capacity chart. "Single" is front steer tires, duallies or TANDEM AXLE is called (D) on tire charts
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