Tires and wheels?

Lazy D · 06-11-2016, 07:22 AM

Well, I've spent the better part of an hour searching for answers, here and other forums but can't seem to find an answer.
My rig came with 235/80-16 D rated tires. So I've seen where some folks opt to change to a higher load rating and had great luck with tire longevity. Luckily, I recently caught a tire gone bad before having a road side disaster. So I figured I'd go to a heavier ply tire. I found some 14 ply ST235/85-16 load range G. I figured it's over kill, but I'd rather not have to worry. These tires are rated for 110 PSI Max cold.
Questions:
1. Anyone know the max rating air pressure for the the factory aluminum wheels on my rig?
2. Anyone else switched to a heavier duty tire like this?
3. If the wheels aren't rated this high, any danger running say, 100 or even less air?

Thanks in advance
D

fhenn · 06-11-2016, 07:53 AM

Generally the Air pressure rating is stamped in side the wheel, but like anything else in this industry it is a toss up (or if Lloyd is involved a toss down)

Lazy D · 06-11-2016, 08:33 AM

Inside of where the tire mounts, or backside side against the hub?
Thanks
D

fhenn · 06-11-2016, 08:59 AM

inside and it can be any where

Stan · 06-11-2016, 09:22 AM

When I upgraded to Load range E from D I called the Manufacturer and they said E's are fine with the aluminum rims if you add steel stems. My rims were not stamped anywhere. LR G with 110psi is a lot of pressure and you will probably need to call as well. They may give the rig a very harsh ride. If you can get LR E and run 80PSI I would so go for it. Running the tires you found with less air may be problematic. The manufacturer's website for the new tires may have a chart that will list the load capacity at lower pressures that may help you.

Lazy D · 06-11-2016, 06:10 PM

I Crawled around till I found the backside of the spokes that had information stamped on the backs. 110PSI

Also showed "DOT-T" I'm guessing that's Load Range T rated?
And,.... "Made in China"

2slick · 06-11-2016, 07:54 PM

I spoke with CR customer service a week or so ago about the Rushmore wheels. They told me they are provided by Lions Head.

Just looking at the back side of your wheel, they sure resemble ours. There is probably a weight rating on another spoke. I think 3960 pounds was what was on ours.

Dayle1 · 06-11-2016, 08:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lazy D

Also showed "DOT-T" I'm guessing that's Load Range T rated?

I would say the DOT-T means DOT approved for trailer use, not car or truck use.

I'm of the opinion that running significantly higher pressure tires than are required for the actual weight of the loaded rig just increases the probability of other problems, broken leaf springs, failed welds, stress cracks in the siding, interior problems, etc. Also stiffer tires means more side stress is applied to wheel studs, bearings and rest of the suspension during tight maneuvering.

Lazy D · 06-11-2016, 08:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dayle1

I'm of the opinion that running significantly higher pressure tires than are required for the actual weight of the loaded rig just increases the probability of other problems, broken leaf springs, failed welds, stress cracks in the siding, interior problems, etc. Also stiffer tires means more side stress is applied to wheel studs, bearings and rest of the suspension during tight maneuvering.

Have you actually heard of any of this happening, or is this just speculation?

Lazy D · 06-11-2016, 08:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2slick

I spoke with CR customer service a week or so ago about the Rushmore wheels. They told me they are provided by Lions Head.

Just looking at the back side of your wheel, they sure resemble ours. There is probably a weight rating on another spoke. I think 3960 pounds was what was on ours.

Here is the street view.

**mark5w** · 06-11-2016, 08:57 PM

Just remember, with the higher pressure, if a tire does blow, it would be like the 4th of July.

travelin texans · 06-11-2016, 10:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dayle1

I would say the DOT-T means DOT approved for trailer use, not car or truck use.

I'm of the opinion that running significantly higher pressure tires than are required for the actual weight of the loaded rig just increases the probability of other problems, broken leaf springs, failed welds, stress cracks in the siding, interior problems, etc. Also stiffer tires means more side stress is applied to wheel studs, bearings and rest of the suspension during tight maneuvering.

Most all of the manufactures put under rated tires on their rvs to save a buck or two & in my opinion it's not if those cheapo tires will blow but when, so if I'm gambling on damages I think I'll gamble on too much tire as opposed to not nearly enough. Kinda like you can't have too much truck!!

stormseeker · 06-12-2016, 05:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by travelin texans

Most all of the manufactures put under rated tires on their rvs to save a buck or two & in my opinion it's not if those cheapo tires will blow but when, so if I'm gambling on damages I think I'll gamble on too much tire as opposed to not nearly enough. Kinda like you can't have too much truck!!

I agree. Factory tires are marginal at best. (Don't get me started on how I know.)

Put the heaviest, best quality tires you can afford even if you have to upgrade the wheels. I would be extremely surprised if your current wheels are rated 110 psi.

I found Goodyear LT tires with appropriate aluminum wheels on line from a very knowledgeable seller shipped for about $1100. Don't recall his name but you can find someone if you search.

**Lloyd** · 06-12-2016, 06:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dayle1

I would say the DOT-T means DOT approved for trailer use, not car or truck use.

I'm of the opinion that running significantly higher pressure tires than are required for the actual weight of the loaded rig just increases the probability of other problems, broken leaf springs, failed welds, stress cracks in the siding, interior problems, etc. Also stiffer tires means more side stress is applied to wheel studs, bearings and rest of the suspension during tight maneuvering.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lazy D

Have you actually heard of any of this happening, or is this just speculation?

I have never heard of, or seen it first hand, but common sense tells me Larry is right. It would have the same effect as adding a bunch more spring leaves. Everything would become solid so to speak. There has to be give, or you get break.

Dayle1 · 06-12-2016, 12:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by travelin texans

Most all of the manufactures put under rated tires on their rvs to save a buck or two & in my opinion it's not if those cheapo tires will blow but when, so if I'm gambling on damages I think I'll gamble on too much tire as opposed to not nearly enough. Kinda like you can't have too much truck!!

Actually they don't put under rated tires on the RV's, that would open them up to significant liabilities. They may put marginal tires on and certainly low quality tires, but not under rated. And even marginal rated tires is not always the case, the original STs on my Cruiser were rated over 6800 lbs per axle, yet the axle is only rated 5200 lbs, so mine certainly weren't under rated.

My solution was not to go up in load range and PSI, but switch to LTs and run the same PSI. I still have over 6000 lbs of tire capacity on a 5200 lb axle.

Lloyd understands what I'm saying, tires are a shock absorber. That is why I stated "running significantly higher pressure tires than are required for the actual weight of the loaded rig just increases the probability of other problems", because you no longer have an effective shock absorber.

**mark5w** · 06-12-2016, 01:21 PM

Lloyd and Larry are absolutely correct. And both are very experienced rv'ers. If you remember from science class,"for every action there is an equal and opposite reaction."

IMHO, LT's are a much better solution.

Lazy D · 06-12-2016, 03:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by stormseeker

.... I would be extremely surprised if your current wheels are rated 110 psi.

Well,...that's what is stamped on the back of a spoke.

I've spoke with someone who works in a tire shop and he said the rating is more related to the valve stems. The metal ones are required for the higher rating. The rubber valve stems won't hold the pressure.

superduty glampers · 06-12-2016, 03:43 PM

Those are the same wheels I have on my Redwood with Goodyear G614's at 110 psi. My GVWR is 16,000. Yours has a GVWR of 15,500 the G rated tires at 110 is a no Brainer to me.

2slick · 06-13-2016, 07:18 AM

I scanned over this thread......I'm curious what the weight of that rig is? I haven't had "D" rated tires since we had a 28' TT.

Our Montana Mountaineer with 5200 lb axles had "E's" on it. Even with 6000 lb axles, I'd probably go with Michelin XPS Ribs.

I'm gonna give the Hartland all steel by Discount Tire a shot pretty soon. I looked at one when I put new tires on the truck.....impressive!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

woodwalker · 06-13-2016, 09:43 AM

One thing to remember in buying tires, you may get a great deal on no name brand tires but they will not cover damages to the trailer in the event of a blowout even if proven the tire was at fault. The major brands like Goodyear will pay for damages. They may cost more but they are cheap insurance when you have 10,000.00 in trailer damage

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