Does anyone know of such an upgrade? To activate the black dump valve on my first tt, it was necessary to kneel down in the dumping area which was never dry or clean. My present system is operated by a 96 inch cable/rod system which is doomed to seize up. The brand new replacement unit which I lubricated as well as possible was very tight to operate right from the get-go. I have read numerous horror stories on various RV forums re; this topic. I have yet to read of an effective solution even though some suggestions were put forth.
Disposing of raw sewage is such an important health issue, that improvements must be made. No camper wants to have his very existence threatened by hepatitis........which can easily occur.
Of course money is the reason we don't have safe systems on most RVs delivered today. This issue is so important that most clear thinking folks would gladly pay a little more to have a sewage dumping system that is both safe and hassle free. To access my dump valves I must remove a section of the underbelly and insulation which is hardly convenient to do more that once. Eliminating this hassle is certainly worthwhile.
Surely motor homes selling for several hundreds of thousands of dollars have satisfactory systems? Perhaps some high end tts and 5ers do as well? I envision a system operated by a servo motor operating a worm gear setup that connects to a rod or lever that operates the actual dump valve.........thus eliminating 96 inches of cable and rods that are doomed to stick and fail.
I would really appreciate hearing about some way of upgrading my sewage dumping system.
Lloyd; Many thanks for your prompt and excellent reply. If this valve functions as well as it advertised to and lives up to it's reviews, it is well worth the $294 Can that it will cost me. I hope to pick it up on thursday when it arrives at the local dealer.
I will post an update after I install it and use it for a little while.
Hey Lloyd what is your opinion on what I'm thinking of doing which is cutting into the black tank sewer pipe about 4' ahead of the sewer hose connection and putting in a plain old fashioned gate valve. I then would open the cable operated valve one last time and use the newly installed gate valve when I need to dump the tank? I will probably leave the 2 grey valves cable operated as they have shorter cables and seem to work OK.
Bruce, you don't have to cut the pipe off to achieve what you want to do.
Just slip one of these on the end of the sewer pipe and you will be able to do the same thing.
I have one on mine, and leave it there all the time. http://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&key...l_4fvio7d9pg_e
2008 Cruiser CF26RK
2013 Ford Eco-Boost
Heavy duty payload - Max tow