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Old 10-02-2012, 01:23 PM   #1
Weekend Camper
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Southern Louisiana
Posts: 70




Hello all ... please bear with me as this problem may take a while to describe.

We have been on the road since May 15 across many states and campgrounds with no problems with the rear stabilizer bars. Last week we stopped for an overnighter and they worked just fine in both directions. When we stopped at our next stop, same day as when they were raised, they would not move at all when the rocker switch was pushed. The motor did not even try to move in either direction. Disconnected plug at rear of switch then hand cranked down since we were to stay for a week.

Fast forward a few days ... was bored so crawled under trailer to check for loose wiring, bad switches, etc. Visibly checked all connectors around the switch (mostly 3m type connectors) then checked voltage coming out of rocker switch to motor. Had 12v dc on both sides of the switch. Motor still would not work in either direction. Concluded the motor must have gone bad somehow so put things aside until we could get home.

Fast forward again to today. Arrived at yet another campground and just for kicks tried the stabilizer switch to see if it would work. Strangely, the stabilizers began to lower for a few revolutions then just "died out" as if it were a battery running out of juice. After that, it would not work at all (again)

My first thought ... hmmmmm, battery must be dead. Discarded that idea because front landing gear worked just fine and I also tried after reconnecting the truck.

I'm wondering if there is a bad/corroded connector somewhere along the line between the battery and the motor circuit. Anybody know where connectors might be or have any other ideas of what the problem might be?

My next step will be to run a wire directly from the battery to the rocker switch and see what happens then. If that does not work, then it appears a new motor is in the future.

If anyone else has experienced a similar problem I'd love to hear the solution.

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Old 10-03-2012, 02:34 AM   #2
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Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Upstate NY
Posts: 874


We had a problem with ours and it turned out to be a defective motor.

1. On our unit the switch was easy to remove from the outside of the trailer - easy for me to verify that it was not a switch problem.
2. The wires on our first motor were very tight and I think the wires pulled free from inside the motor

The new motor was installed such that there is plenty of slack in the wire that goes into the motor. No issues since the motor was replaced. Only problem was that it took the RV dealer 3 weeks to trouble shoot and replace the motor.

Per the manual there is an inline fuse and an auto reset ckt breaker that controls the power to the motor. Doubt if it could be one of these - but there could be a loose connection on one of these.

Your last trouble shooting test is included in the stabalizer manual.

From the manual:
Step 1 - Attach voltmeter (or test light) leads to

the motor leads. Does the meter



indicate 12V DC?



If YES, see Step 2; if NO see Step 3.



Step 2 - If YES, at the motor, check the

incoming leads to 12V DC (if necessary,



disconnect leads at wire splices). Does meter indicate 12V

DC? If YES, motor



needs to be replaced. The motor is not field serviceable. DO

NOT ATTEMPT



TO REPAIR. If NO, Inspect all wires and connections

between the wall switch



and the motor. Repair connections as necessary. Recheck as

in Step 1.



Step 3 - If NO, Inspect all connections

between battery and motor. Inspect 6A



Auto-reset Circuit Breaker and 20A Fuse.



Recheck as above in Step 1.



Since there are no field serviceable parts in the motor,

electrical troubleshooting



and service is limited to replacing only those components as

previously outlined.



Thorough inspection of wiring and connections is the only

other electrical



service that can be performed.
A new motor is about $300 to $350. Hopefully your unit is still under warranty.

Edited by: NorskeNY
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2012 Cruiser Patriot CF335SS.

2011 Silverado 3500HD LTZ CCLB Duramax SRW 4X4

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Old 10-03-2012, 09:26 AM   #3
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Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Southern Louisiana
Posts: 70




Bob, the troubleshooting proceedure is essentially what I have done. It just threw me a curve when it tried to operate then bogged down the last time I tried it.

Yes, it is still under warranty so I will contact CR for a replacement and do it myself if they will send parts. Local dealership no longer handles CR so it's easier to do the work than seek a repairman that I trust.

Thanks for your thoughts.
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Old 10-03-2012, 10:01 AM   #4
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Location: Upstate NY
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slouman



Bob, the troubleshooting proceedure is essentially what I have done. It just threw me a curve when it tried to operate then bogged down the last time I tried it.

Yes, it is still under warranty so I will contact CR for a replacement and do it myself if they will send parts. Local dealership no longer handles CR so it's easier to do the work than seek a repairman that I trust.

Thanks for your thoughts.

give this person a try:

Bill Stout;bstout@crossroadsrv.com</span>

He may be able to authorize the local RV dealer to install it. Your dealer may sell other Thor products.

Edited by: NorskeNY
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2012 Cruiser Patriot CF335SS.

2011 Silverado 3500HD LTZ CCLB Duramax SRW 4X4

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Old 10-04-2012, 03:13 AM   #5
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Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: sulphur, la
Posts: 8
Hey slouman......man we must have had the same people building our RV's, have been having stabilizer problems about 2 days after we left you guys in La.......checked all the above and below but nothing......we have finished out job in Maine, on our way back to Sulphur, plan on going by dealer when I get home next week....I have a feeling of what will happen so I'm going to drink about 12 Bud Lites before I go talk to them....that may give me an excuse for my actions//////////by the way, still have water under bed problems, may plan on making that area a live-well for my fishing days...........be safe.....willie
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Old 02-27-2013, 11:00 PM   #6
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Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Palestine,Texas
Posts: 6


Yes, I have, It seems the remote will run interference with the switch. Iand the repair tech have dropped motor and tested for issues.
FYI there is a 30 amp in line fuse on the wire before it connects to the remote box behind the Control panel
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