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Old 06-02-2011, 12:10 PM   #1
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I'm not sure if its normal but for some reason my hitch doesn't seem to be sitting in the rails properly (curt q5). It seems to be sitting on 2 diagonally opposite points (where the little tabs rest in the rails for the pins) and it teeter totters on the other 2 diagonally opposite points. When I'm disconnected in creates an annoying clunking noise as it rocks back and forth and when I'm hitched I think it may be part of the cause for some chucking. I have heard really good things about the rotoflex pinbox but it doesn't seem to live up to its expectation for me-- But then again, its my first 5er and I have nothing to compare to. Is this normal? Any thoughts about it?
Thanks.
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Old 06-02-2011, 01:42 PM   #2
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All four locking points should be completely secured. I would place a call into Curt for verification and depending on what they say, it maybe back to the installer for adjustment.
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Old 06-02-2011, 02:22 PM   #3
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Sounds like something is wrong with alignment. My hitch (not Curt) sits flat with all pins going in easily.



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Old 06-02-2011, 06:59 PM   #4
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All 4 points fit nicely in the rails... it drops in and lifts out with no problem. The pins also go in and out easily. I installed it myself... (maybe thats the problem...)
Do you think this could cause some chucking?
We are away this weekend, I will try to call curt on monday.

Stan, is there a way to adjust alignment?




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Old 06-03-2011, 01:22 AM   #5
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I guess I misunderstood your original post. I got the impression the hitch was not going into the tabs smoothly. If the hitch goes in and out easily and the pins go in easy, that sounds correct. There is no alignment other that just how the main hitch was assembled at the factor. I thought that THAT may be the issue. When my Reese is installed there is just a slight bit of movement (VERY slight). The only other "alignment" adjustment I know of is with the rail installation. There are spacers that go under the rails and above the bed to correct for level issues associated with the raised ribs of the bed itself.
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Old 06-03-2011, 01:31 AM   #6
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I have a Hijacker and I hear a very distinct "clunk" also when I put the breaks on or pull away fast. I don't know if this is normal or not. I'm positive it's coming from the hitch but not sure exactly where. It sure is loud and kind of nerve wracking.
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Old 06-03-2011, 01:39 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KennyB
I have a Hijacker and I hear a very distinct "clunk" also when I put the breaks on or pull away fast. I don't know if this is normal or not. I'm positive it's coming from the hitch but not sure exactly where. It sure is loud and kind of nerve wracking.

I get the same noise with my Reese 16K slider. I've got used to it. I looked at the kingpin and the hitch jaws and there is a little slop around the kingpin when the hitch jaws are closed.
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Old 06-03-2011, 05:26 AM   #8
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alright, that makes me feel a little better knowing that mine is not the only one clunking. It rocks back and forth only as much as the hitch pins will allow, but it seems its mostly resting on just 2 diagonally opposite points. And I do have all the spacers in the ribs of the bed.
My hitch jaws are nice and tight around the king pin. I think there is absolutely NO play around them.
Anyway... thanks everyone- I feel a little better now.




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Old 06-06-2011, 02:34 AM   #9
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Happycampers,

Check the way the rails are attached to the frame of the truck. Many install these with small L-brackets that are either bolted or welded to the frame and only 2 of the 4 bolts that hold down the 2 rails are securely bolted to the frame. The other 2 only connectinto the bed of your truck. Not the ideal set up for large trailers.

There is a better way to attach the rails, using the better 3/8" heavy duty L-plates that attach to your frame, and 3 of the 4 bolts attach to this massive bracket. This does not allowany flex when towing.

When I installed my 5th wheel, I would not use the "cheaper" L-bracket method, knowing the potential for issues when hauling larger rigs.

Reese has these plates, #50082 for my slider on my F-250 but you can get them for any of the Big 3 trucks. It's a pretty standard plate for most 5th wheel hitches, with most all rails and the distance required between them the same.

If you are feeling and hearing "clunks" beside the king pin noise, check you rail installation before going any further. Youmight be amazed at how only2 of the 4 rails attach to the thin bed could be considered okay.

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Old 06-06-2011, 05:01 AM   #10
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Another place to look is the attchment,on the side of the main body,of the two legs that go into the rails. If they are bolted to the main body, a bit crooked, it would cause the bottom of the legs to hit the rails crooked. You might hook the legs up in the rails, then loosen one side of the bolts that hold the leg in place, then rock that side back and forth. May be enough play in the bolt holes to allow the legs to align with the rails, then tighten the bolts with the legs aligned.













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Old 06-06-2011, 06:10 AM   #11
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nrausa, the method you describe is pretty much how i installed it. The directions gave me measurements, but I figured the foolproof way would be to use the actual hitch as a guide. I may have to try again and see if its any better. The only problem is its a pain in the *** because I have to remove the spare and heatshield to access one side of the rear bracket.

r2millers: Curt has 10 bolts holding down my rails but only 6 attach to the frame brackets (only 2 of which are on the front rail). I even reconsidered drilling the holes for the (basically) decorative bolts. I think I am going to try nrausas method first, if that doesn't work then I may look into this bracket from reese

Thanks for the input!!! Much appreciated!




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Old 06-06-2011, 06:21 AM   #12
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Happy,

If you already have 6 bolts right to the frame then you are good. The front rails and the two center bolts are the ones attached to the bed only. If these boltsare securely tighten, then you are as strong as an ox for pulling/safety.

You may have some minor play if the hitch is a slider, even when locked in place, but nothing to be concerned about.

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Old 06-06-2011, 07:26 AM   #13
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no slider.
I guess the only way to tell is find someone to take me for a ride in their TV and see if theirs makes the same noise as mine. If I feel adventurous this weekend I think I'll drop the spare and heat shield and loosen off the bolts around the frame and try to rearrange the hitch and see if it sits better... or just put up with it.

Thanks again!


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Old 11-07-2011, 10:12 AM   #14
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I found this. They look to be the solution I need. Anybody have these or use these? Does anyone know if they come as a pk of 4 or just one?
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Old 11-08-2011, 10:32 PM   #15
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I have the same hitch, and cut out some felt tape to on top of the rails where the hitch sits on each of the 4 corners -- which is what the previous post's link has for a solution.



That eliminated the rattles when empty / not hooked up, and did reduce the noise when towing. Still have a little slop when starting from a dead stop, I think that's inherent in the king pin.

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Old 11-09-2011, 09:12 AM   #16
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I mostly hear the noise when empty. It doesn't seem to bother me when its loaded. I found a few other stores online that sell them (a little cheaper too) but most places want 20 to 30 bucks to ship them to me up in canada. I am going to keep an eye for them around here I have all winter to find some.
your idea may be the easiest/cheapest solution. Thanks for the idea. I'm just glad I am not the only one hearing noises....




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