Do I need more truck

[kckettridge]

So we purchased a 2014 Sunset Trail Reserve 32RL in June. Towed it a few times with my 2003 Toyota Tundra SR5 Xtra Cab 4.7L V8. I had to put Sumo Springs on it (basically airless air bags) and for good measure, I installed a Hellwig rear anti sway bar. It tows fine on the flat lands. It handles ok but the DW just gave me the green light to start looking for a new TV. I'm thinking about just diving right into a 3/4 ton but want to first find out what other fellow Crossroads owners who tow with a 1/2 ton and this unit feel about their 1/2 tons. I'll spring for the 3/4 but really would like to stick with a 1/2 ton if I can. Thanks!

[Papa-T]

Well this is the towing specs on the 2017 Chevrolet 1500. Depending on your weight and where you tow; mountains etc. TOWING
Available Max Trailering Package offers up to 12,500 lbs. of class-leading towing capability†
Integrated Brake Controller
Tow/Haul Mode
StabiliTrak with Trailer Sway Control
Hill Start Assist
Auto Grade Braking
Rear Vision Camera
4-wheel Disc Brakes with Duralife™ Rotors

[FezUSA]

I have the 29SS and I towed with a 1/2 ton Suburban 5.3 V8 when I first got the trailer. Sticker inside a cabinet said that with options etc. I was at 62xx (can't remember exact). Had 5 younger kids plus gear + 45lb dog in trunk etc. On the interstate the TV did OK, but uphill gradients took their toll! On the back roads between the major highways and the campground is where I sometimes struggled. I remember this one valley where you were driving through it (parallel) on one side, then a 90 turn over an old iron bridge and then a 90 turn and uphill on the other side of the valley. That uphill was long and very very slow for us. I think I crawled up it at 20mph the whole way, wondering about making it!!

After that trip I started my search for 3/4 Suburban options. When I found a gently used local one that had about 50k miles on it for $15k I took the deal. It was a fully optioned SLE Yukon XL with Nav + Quadrasteer. Yes I only get 13mpg when not towing vs the 18 with the 1/2. But I get 12.7 when towing vs 9 with the 1/2 so an actual improvement! I also have never had any issues with any grades. I can accelerate up anything I've driven on while towing.

The 1/2 said it was good for 7400, so I had about 1200 left for people + gear etc. but then I'm maxed out. The 3/4 with QS is good for 9600 so I've got plenty of room and the RV will max out before the TV does which means I've spare capacity - which is a good thing in my book as I don't like running at max!! It also means I can add extras like the kayaks to the roof of the TV.

You have more capacity with the newer rigs though, so the 1/2 may work for you. And you're looking at a truck whereas I needed 3 rows of seating + dog crate sized storage behind 3rd row! BTW, here's the link from Chevy if you haven't already seen it.

http://www.chevrolet.com/content/dam...wing-guide.pdf

[sleepyT]

Kc
You are the only one who can determine how well your existing truck will handle your camper...I would suggest that the critical consideration is not how much power you have to tow it, but do you have enough truck to STOP it...Too many new campers think more about pulling while not thinking enough about stopping...IMHO

[mark5w]

Tommy, you are partially correct, but, If you compare the specs of the brakes, axles, frame to the latest models, and I only researched the Ford line, the specs of the new models are equal to or exceed the 2011 Ford F350. Let alone the new 2018, would really exceed the specs of the older F350.

Here are the specs for the 2018 F150 SCREW.

2018 Ford® F-150 XLT Truck | Model Highlights | Ford.com

3.5L EcoBoost® V6 towing capacity 3.55 rear 13,000 lbs.



3.5L EcoBoost® V6 payload capacity 2620

2,620 lbs.† Requires Heavy Duty Payload Package with 18" wheels __________________

[DavisK]

I agree Tommy, but it isn't just stopping. It's also descending steep grades. I want a truck heavy enough that I don't have to ride my brakes to keep the trailer from trying to control the truck.

[mark5w]

Kemp, physics does not support your statement. If the tow vehicle is heavier, it will have an impact on braking and actually extend the braking distance.

A car traveling at a specific velocity will have a certain amount of kinetic energy (energy of motion). As you increase the mass of the vehicle, you increase its energy of motion. Brakes convert kinetic energy into thermal energy through sliding friction. Also, Newton’s 2nd Law states that Force = Mass X Acceleration. With a given braking force, if you increase the mass the deceleration will have an inverse relationship.
That’s why race cars have all unessential elements removed- door cards, radios, carpet, headliner…everything. If you are comparing some heavier models that stop in less distance than a lighter car, this is because the car is engineered to do so. There are regular brakes, and then there are high performance brakes. Braking systems are not all created equally. The reasons a heavier car may brake faster than a lighter one are a) it has larger diameter brake rotors than the competing car, and b) it has larger brake pads and therefore braking surface against the rotors, and c) it has the ability to dissipate brake heat better.

[DavisK]

Originally Posted by mark5w

Kemp, physics does not support your statement. If the tow vehicle is heavier, it will have an impact on braking and actually extend the braking distance.

Originally Posted by DavisK

I want a truck heavy enough that I don't have to ride my brakes to keep the trailer from trying to control the truck.

I said I want a truck that's heavy enough with enough engine that I DON'T have to use the brakes when descending steep grades.

[Allen repinski]

Our HD 2500 Chevy has a manual shift mode that helps prevent brake over use on the down hills.
I wouldn't want to tow with out that.

[mark5w]

I understand Kemp, but that would put me in the diesel bracket, and I use my truck as a daily driver, (only a few miles a day) and I'm sure that's not good for a diesel.

[hippy45]

My 2009 F150 has engine braking with tow engaged. It work's very well towing my 6800lbs. I am not sure if it is on the new gas engine's.

[Biggles607]

I drive a Tundra Limited and for my purposes it's perfectly matched with our Zinger 291RL.

In tow/haul and at 60 -65 mph I get 9 - 10 mpg with 'Harvey' on the back.

The Tekumsah trailer brake controller makes very light work of stopping the rig even on steep downhill grades when fully loaded. I'm guessing were just shy of the Tundra's 10,300lb max tow weight.

I do pull with a 10,000lb rated weight distribution hitch and sway control linkage which keeps us straight and horizontal.

Going uphill is easy, the truck's transmission when the cruise is set always finds the right cogs to maintain the speed. Any attempt to accelerate at this point is met with a rapid downshift and high RPM but with little increase in climb performance, so I tend to leave it be unless traffic dictates otherwise. "Know your limitations" 'Dirty Harry Callahan' once said.

I had a full service on the 2015 truck before last trip and the tech was impressed with how minimal the wear on the pads was for the 30k miles it's covered from new.

I often think about getting a 3/4 ton when a big diesel one blows past me on the interstate at 70+ pulling a monster 5th wheel, but then I'm reminded I don't have his fiscal resources or responsibilities.

Just my 2 cents worth...

Have a wonderful Christmas everyone. Be safe.

[Allen repinski]

I get the rapid downshift and high RPM when using speed control so I don't use it that often. Any one else find this to be true?

[rolls fam]

Originally Posted by Allen repinski

I get the rapid downshift and high RPM when using speed control so I don't use it that often. Any one else find this to be true?

I found that to be the case with my 2007 Toyota Tundra. Between the consistently high RPM, constantly feeling like we were under powered, and always being right at max GCWR for the truck/trailer we recently upgraded. We weren’t originally looking for a 3500 but the opportunity presented itself at a fantastic price so we couldn’t pass it up. Prior to the 3500, we were always taking 2 vehicles because I didn’t want to go over on max GCWR even though the Tundra could do it... now we all travel together with no concerns and it’s great!

[lmpres]

Hippy,

I just traded in my 2012 F250 gas for a new f350 Diesel Dually. My 250 had the 6.7L. I had the engine braking while tow option was engaged.....

[johnboytoo]

IMHO, if downshift and high RPM happen, that's an indication of not enough truck !

Don't get an intermediate truck, get the 3/4 ton because you WILL get a larger rv soon enough and having more truck than needed is always a safer approach.

And a cat scale and real weights compared to your GVWR, Rear GAWR, pin/tongue weight, and rv weight are the only things that can answer your question.

While my Ford Excursion, and F250, and F350 were all really nice traveling vehicles, they were right at the top of their capabilities with the rv's we had...

[SeanRN]

Originally Posted by kckettridge

I'm thinking about just diving right into a 3/4 ton but want to first find out what other fellow Crossroads owners who tow with a 1/2 ton and this unit feel about their 1/2 tons. I'll spring for the 3/4 but really would like to stick with a 1/2 ton if I can. Thanks!

Did you get your answer from other 1/2 ton drivers? A lot of good points were made regarding being able to stop, not just tow as well as possibility of a heavier RV in the future. Safety is top priority. Personally I wouldn't want to tow anything over 25 feet regularly with less than a 3/4 ton truck.

Any truck is expensive. A TV is a big expense especially if you don't need a truck for work. If it's your daily driver, then there are other considerations. MPG etc. Jumping from a 1/2 ton to a 3/4 ton is considerably more money. The ride in a 1/2 ton to 3/4 ton is different too. I went with a used TV. It was a great deal even though it is more than I need, (was looking for 3/4 ton, ended up with 1 ton). I also work from home. If I had to commute, I'd probably buy a burner car for daily driving. I've done that in the past.

Good news is you have time to look around and make an informed choice because you have a functioning TV. Good luck!

[harley]

I ended up getting a 3/4 ton rather than a 1/2 ton cause of a good deal. Turned out it was a good idea as I used a truck camper to do an Alsaka trip and needed a 3/4 ton to Haul the weight of thr truck camper. Since have sold the camper and big truck works great for towing .

[MidOhioHunter]

I realize this post was made back in September, but its been that long since I've been on last. Although we don't tow a 32RL, we have a 270BH, I do tow with a half ton truck. Well we used to....
Yesterday We ordered a new 2018 Ram 2500 Laramie Mega Cab with the 6.4 Hemi.
With your trailer having a GVRW of 9700#, I think you would be more comfortable controlling the weight with a 3/4 ton truck. My biggest complaint with our 1/2 ton was it's performance in windy conditions and low payload. It moved the load great, stopped fine, maneuvered with ease. But looking forward, our kids are getting bigger, we take more stuff and I didn't feel comfortable with the 1/2 ton moving forward.
I'm really looking forward to next season with the new tow vehicle.

[kckettridge]

I'd sure like to thank everyone for all their advice and recommendations. After looking at multiple trucks; comparing this and that, power trains, etc. the opportunity/deal was too good to pass up on a brand new 2017 Ford F-250 XLT gas at one of our local dealers so we made the plunge and got it.
So far we have made two short trips towing the TT and we don't have any regrets thus far.
We have planned a trip in a few weeks to Arizona from out home in No. Calif. so we will see just how everything works out. Now if I could just figure out why the wardrobe slide out stopped working, I'll be one happy camper.