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Old 04-06-2021, 01:31 PM   #1
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strpped threads

I just finished putting new tires on the camper.
Like just about every time I pull the wheels, whether to repack the bearings, or like this time, to put new tires on. I usually end up with the threads stripping on either one or more of the lug nuts and/or the wheel studs.
I thought I would post this up here to see if anyone else has this problem, or am I alone with it? Also wonder if anybody has any thoughts or advise about it.
I use a torque wrench and only torque to 80#. I use to torque more but cut back wondering if that was my issue. I took the wrench down to a local garage and checked it with one down there. it checked out fine.



Yesterday was when the trouble hit. I had a stud strip out. Thinking my supply was deleted I went up to a local trailer dealer where I've purchased that stuff in the past. No luck, and he couldn't match it up in his books. So I came back home and found a used one that I thought I could make work. I noticed the splines were looking a little weak, but in needless desperation I changed out the bad one with it. Big mistake! It got part way on and it starting slipping in the splines. At that point I decided to call it a day.

This morning I went out with a 4in. angle grinder and cut thru the nut and bolt and split the nut off. Pulled the drum again and drove the stud out.
Then I started searching my parts supply again and found a bag with new studs. WOW what a find! So my wheels, tires and everything is back together again. Happy Happy

I'm going to try and post up a couple pictures of the studs and lug nuts. Hopefully you will be able to make out the threads. Also a pic of the stud and nut I split in half with the angle grinder.

Thoughts?
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Old 04-06-2021, 03:40 PM   #2
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Hello Lloyd. I am not much help but I would sure be interested in your process for replacing the studs. Any special tools required? I just had my wheels off to do bearings and a couple of the lugs were very tight when trying to unscrew and put back on. Torqued ok though. I put mine at 90 but have steel rims.
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Old 04-06-2021, 03:41 PM   #3
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Lloyd, do you use an impact wrench?
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Old 04-06-2021, 04:50 PM   #4
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In all the years of switching summer and winter rims on three different vehicles and working on a number of snowmobile and ATV trailers I have never stripped a stud. I always turn lug nut on by hand at least 4 turns before an impact gun is used at half setting. Then I use a torque wrench. My worst one has to be my 4 place snowmobile trailer with dual axles I prep for winter due to open nuts. Salt just does a number on the exposed thread.
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Old 04-06-2021, 05:12 PM   #5
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Lloyd, I think I'd find a different supplier for those studs. Also, it probably goes without saying, but the nuts should be replaced any time there is any stripping or crossthreading going on.
If you aren't already, I like to use nuts that are capped or enclosed. That way, the threads stay clean and dry. I never use power tools to install a wheel lug nut.
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Old 04-06-2021, 07:01 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by xltjim View Post
Hello Lloyd. I am not much help but I would sure be interested in your process for replacing the studs. Any special tools required? I just had my wheels off to do bearings and a couple of the lugs were very tight when trying to unscrew and put back on. Torqued ok though. I put mine at 90 but have steel rims.

Jim, the studs in my brake drums, (and I think all brake drums) just drive out with a hammer. When you find a correct replacement, just turn the drum over, slip the new one in the empty hole and with a good size punch, or I use a big bolt that fits in the hole you drive it back in.
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Old 04-06-2021, 07:03 PM   #7
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Lloyd, do you use an impact wrench?

Just to remove them. Then ratchet to snug them up and finish with a torque wrench.
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Old 04-06-2021, 07:11 PM   #8
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In all the years of switching summer and winter rims on three different vehicles and working on a number of snowmobile and ATV trailers I have never stripped a stud. I always turn lug nut on by hand at least 4 turns before an impact gun is used at half setting. Then I use a torque wrench. My worst one has to be my 4 place snowmobile trailer with dual axles I prep for winter due to open nuts. Salt just does a number on the exposed thread.

I have never had this issue in the past with other units. That's what bugs me.


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Lloyd, I think I'd find a different supplier for those studs. Also, it probably goes without saying, but the nuts should be replaced any time there is any stripping or crossthreading going on. I always do.
If you aren't already, I like to use nuts that are capped or enclosed. That way, the threads stay clean and dry. I never use power tools to install a wheel lug nut.

A different supplier might be the answer, I don't know. But, at some point the originals must have done the same thing.
I hadn't thought about capped/enclosed nuts. I'll have to look into that.
I even go so far as to spray WD-40 on the studs and wipe them off then blow them clean with the air gun.
I don't know, kinda at my wits end with this BS.
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Old 04-06-2021, 07:16 PM   #9
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Lloyd, it kinda looks like galling to me or soft lug nuts. Do you lube the threads on the studs?
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Old 04-06-2021, 07:18 PM   #10
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I spray WD-40 on both the studs and the lug nuts, then blow them out/off with the air gun.
This is done before putting them back on.
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Old 04-06-2021, 07:29 PM   #11
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It's very possible that you are affecting the torque by using the WD40. I think I would avoid that. Probably just clean things with brake cleaner or something with no lubricant in it.
I once had a kid at a Walmart put anti-seize on my wheel studs, and when trying to get them to torque specs, broke them right off.
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Old 04-06-2021, 09:51 PM   #12
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when you torque wheel nuts use only 1 drop of 30w oil on threads. you are over torqueing if you soak everything. you want crush force, so no lube on outside of nut. Only threads get a small amount of lube.
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Old 04-07-2021, 08:31 AM   #13
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I don't think I have ever seen a recommendation to grease/lubricate studs or nuts on the wheels. I personally never stripped a stud on a wheel hub, use power tools to remove and place the nuts on the bolts until they touch the rim and torque with torque wrench.

When you re-check the torque before the trip do you ever find a nut that needs correction? Never finding one could indicate over-torqueing, always finding many could indicate issues with the hardware or wrench used.
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Old 04-07-2021, 11:38 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wingerdinger;147798[B
]It's very possible that you are affecting the torque by using the WD40. I think I would avoid that. Probably just clean things with brake cleaner or something with no lubricant in it.[/B]
I once had a kid at a Walmart put anti-seize on my wheel studs, and when trying to get them to torque specs, broke them right off.

You might be on to something there. I'm going to try that brake cleaner instead of WD-40.

I agree with ugauga. I don't think I've ever heard a recommendation to lube or grease the threads either. That's why I thought I was OK with the WD-40. Especially since I was wiping it off and then using the air nozzle to blow the threads clean. I don't really classify WD-40 as a lubricant. It seems to dry out pretty quick.
As far as rechecking the torque, like I stated in a previous post, I torque to 80#. I start at 70# and when I get all done and everything is on the floor, I re torque to 80#.
Yes, I do find when I re check a few miles down the road there is usually one, maybe two, that will take another click or two with the wrench.


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I don't think I have ever seen a recommendation to grease/lubricate studs or nuts on the wheels. I personally never stripped a stud on a wheel hub, use power tools to remove and place the nuts on the bolts until they touch the rim and torque with torque wrench.

When you re-check the torque before the trip do you ever find a nut that needs correction? Never finding one could indicate over-torqueing, always finding many could indicate issues with the hardware or wrench used.
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Old 04-07-2021, 05:14 PM   #15
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Good to know. Lloyd sorry about your troubles. I’ve never put anything on the threads before.
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Old 04-07-2021, 07:13 PM   #16
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From Tire Rack.

"Torque specifications are for dry threads only. The fastener threads should be free of oil, dirt, grit, corrosion, etc. The hardware should turn freely without binding when tightened by hand. It is important NOT to lubricate hardware threads or seats. The friction at which torque is measured against should come from the hardware seats. Lubricating hardware threads and seats alters the friction generated at the lug seat which will result in inaccurate torque readings and/or over-torqueing of the hardware."

Glad you got is fixed Lloyd.
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Old 04-08-2021, 07:34 AM   #17
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That was a good find! Thanks Mark for the leg work.


That backs up what ugauga and Wingerdinger posted.
Maybe I have been creating my own problem by cleaning the treads off with WD-40, but I sure never thought after wiping them and using air to blow them clean there would be any lubricant left.


Wingerdinger stated maybe I should find a new source for studs. After thinking about it, I realized it was the old (original) studs that have been giving me the problem. Maybe Lippert had a problem back then. Anyway, I think if I can locate some more of the studs like I have for replacement now, I'm going to replace all of them.


It's nice to have a community like this to post issues and problems we encounter from time to time. There is always ones who want to help and can and do help. This forum is a great resource, not only for the new inexperienced members, but also for us older members that need a problem talked over once in awhile.
So THANKS everybody for your input.
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Old 04-08-2021, 09:29 AM   #18
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I believe that the studs/nuts are a low grade probably 2 or less. Whoever won the bid to supply them sent minimal quality/grade. I think i would replace them all.
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Old 04-08-2021, 11:10 AM   #19
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I love it !

I worked fitting tires for years. Must've removed and replaced hundreds of thousands of lug nuts with air guns, ratchets and those old manual spiders.

Except for one Rolls Royce, I don't ever recall breaking a stud. (No one told me the drivers side wheels, in England at least, have left hand threads)

I have never EVER used a torque wrench on lug nuts.

I used to finger tighten them to seat the nut into the concave depression in the wheel, then snug them with the spider.

One time I got distracted, probably by the phone on the wall, and the 'grease monkey' took the car for a test drive before I'd tightened everything. When he got back, all four wheels were still there, and just as tight as when he took it.

Call me lucky if you like, but that's how it got done back then. Just sayin'

Please note, this is a personal anecdote, not a recommendation or criticism of the correct way of doing things.

Oh how times have changed.
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