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Old 10-28-2014, 06:41 AM   #41
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It says each tire can carry 2806lbs on the Mich web site


The way I see it is, your truck when fully loaded should not exceed--11224#.

If you were to weigh each tire when the truck is fully loaded, that tire shouldn't exceed 2806#,

It has nothing to do with what you're towing. The rating on the sidewall is for what your truck ends up weighing.
The door sticker handles the part about what you're towing.
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Old 10-28-2014, 06:55 AM   #42
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Thanks Lloyd. That's what I was thinking. But it must be Tongue weight we are talking about. My truck is about 6k lbs. The TT is about 6k lbs. Unless I try to put the TT into the bed of my truck, I think I'm ok. Tongue weight on the TT is about 600 lbs.
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Old 10-28-2014, 07:05 AM   #43
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If you haven't done it, you should put your truck and trailer on a scale.
Without doing that, you are just guessing at all of the weights.
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Old 10-28-2014, 07:55 AM   #44
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This means the rear axle or actually the rear tires can hold 5612 pounds when inflated to 50 psi. If you tow at 30 or 45 psi this weight rating would be lowered.

What does the door stickers say for weight ratings? Does it match this number for the rawr?

Now you know what your rear axle tire rating is load your truck up as if your going camping and weigh the front and rear axle. Then you can see how much tongue weight you can add to the back of the truck.
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Old 10-28-2014, 08:30 AM   #45
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Here's a web site that explains tire load weight.

Tire Load Weight
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Old 10-28-2014, 08:32 AM   #46
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I'm honestly not seeing why I need to weigh anything. I know that's probably not the thing to say here because it seems as though most people who post here weigh everything.
My logic is this: My trailer tongue is 600 lbs (according to the specs on the trailer, I know that number is probably not 100% accurate cause it probably doesn't include propane/battery/ ). I don't load the bed of the truck with anything except a few bicycles whenever we go camping.
So unless the trailer tongue weight I'm getting from the specs is off by a few thousand pounds, I don't see how I can be even close to the limit. Even taking into account two adults and two kids in the cab of the truck, it doesn't seem I'm not even close to putting 5k on the rear axle or 1100 lbs in the bed/hitch.
I tow with a Tundra, 5.7l where the max towing says it 9k lbs and max load in the bed is about 1100 lbs. The trailer I'm pulling is 6k lbs.

Doing a rough guesstimate in my head it seems I'm not even close to going over. That being said, I will weigh everything in the spring. But unless I'm missing some key piece of logic/information I'm just not seeing why I have to. But I am new at this, so I could very well be missing some key piece of information/logic!

I met some people this summer that were towing way beyond their capacity. Even I could see this. One camper next to me told me his rig was 9,000 lbs. He was towing it with a Van! Even my 10 year old son look at the van/camper and said to me "They can't be towing that camper with that van". He towed it from NJ to TN. Glad I wasn't riding next to him!

Thanks as always for all the advice and information.
Right now I'm looking up winterizing. It's that time!
Mike



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Old 10-28-2014, 09:12 AM   #47
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Weighing is not limited to this site...
MOST towing/rv sites all recommend it, how else will you know ?

BUT, you don't have to weigh...
If your dealer told you you are ok,
or the rv salesmen told you you are ok...
IMHO, I would be less than comfortable with what 'they' say...

other reasons are:
because the published numbers are usually not correct - or better yet, they are incomplete - missing all the other things that add up quickly,
because they have no idea how much you will load or where you will load it,
because most of us what to ensure we are safe with our families,
(and ultimately, with those we share the road with )

After a few years, most do weigh them and for $10 and 20 minutes to drive to a cat scale and weigh it... why not ?
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Old 10-28-2014, 09:21 AM   #48
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The estimated tongue weight may be way off. Plus only figuring 10% of trailer weight as required tongue weight does not often lead to a well behaved towing experience.

I would bet your actual tongue wight is closure to 900 pounds or fifteen percent. But if your payload is only 1100 pounds which seems close to most light nice riding half ton trucks. Two adults can add up to 400 pounds of that.

The main thing if your truck is not sagging bad, your tires don't look like they are low, and it still goes down the road nicely, you may be safe. You can judge that. I personally have not weighed my stuff. I know my tongue weight is well over 10% of my trailer weight. I bet I'm at 16 to 18% tongue weight and have cruised down the highway with out a sway device, just the old style load distribution hitch, w/chains.

I also avoid all 1500 or half ton trucks do to the limited payload and lower ability to control a trailer. My baby Hummer (a H3) has 10 ply tires and an added leaf spring in the rear because it could not safely control a small pop up that was well within its rated capacity.
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Old 10-28-2014, 10:26 AM   #49
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I bought my Truck/Trailer at basically the same time so I could be sure the combo was good. Before purchase, I certainly couldn't take them both out to weigh them so I didn't have any choice but to run the numbers based on the reported weights. I also communicated with others who had either a similar setup or the same setup.
I bought a WD hitch (Equalizer) and make sure all my holding tanks are empty when towing.
I have no sagging, swaying or anything else that doesn't 'feel' right. But as I said earlier, when I pumped the tires up to 45psi it was like I wasn't towing anything! It made a big difference. That was pretty cool.
All that being said, I will weigh it eventually, just so I know.
And, in the unlikely event the numbers tell me my Tundra can't pull a 6,000lb trailer, what am I going to do, sell the Tundra and buy a F250? Keep the kids bikes at home? Keep the kids at home?! Travel with empty propane tanks?

The one thing I do have control of 'after the fact' is I can buy new/better tires, so that's good.

It's like a chicken/egg conundrum. I can't weigh it before I buy it. Once I buy it I can weigh it but it's too late because I already bought it! So it seems the only thing to really do is trust the numbers you get from the dealers/spec sheets. Because in the end, that's all you really have to go on before you plunk down the cash. That, and of course, opinions from others who have bought similar items, which is what I really paid attention to when making my decision.
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Old 07-02-2015, 02:21 PM   #50
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When towing , put air pressure at the max that is on the side of the tire. Stops the swaying..
So I just picked up my first TT (moving up from a large High Wall Pop up to a Zinger 28BH) and the 30 mile trip home was not the most pleasant trip I have ever had. I have a 2014 F-150 SuperCrew 4x4 with the 5.0 and 3.55 rear axle with tow package (not MaxTow). The truck seemed more than adequate and the 10,000 WDH leveled everything out, and I had a single friction sway bar.....BUT, at 60-65 on the interstate it got this really wishy washy feeling. After reflecting on things, the tire pressure was at 34PSI (P275/65-18 Goodyear SRA's). I have never really experienced sway on any of my 3 prior popups. is this to be expected? Before I go back out, I will be increasing the tire pressure. Any other advise?
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Old 07-02-2015, 05:06 PM   #51
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Change to LT tires

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Old 07-02-2015, 07:15 PM   #52
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Change to LT tires

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I agree. LT, load range E
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Old 07-02-2015, 08:25 PM   #53
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Towing and tire pressure

Will look to upgrade tires in the near future. Only have 14k on these. The things the camper dealer doesn't tell you.


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Old 07-03-2015, 06:09 AM   #54
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You can increase the air in the tires to the max. My experience is you should not tow with a P rated tire. If your truck needs new tires buy a minimum of a 6 ply load C tire. You might have to go with a 8 ply load D. It depends on what they have in stock. I bet with a LT rated tire it feels like a new vehicle and tows better.

I have replaced P rated tires with 10 ply load E tires and thought the vehicle felt safer and had more control in curves. This past winter I put the stock tires back on our Hummer and my wife said it felt soft and loose around curves. I put the 10 ply tires back on it. Even though it rides a little stiffer she says it feels better and has more control again. I was surprised she was willing to give up a little "comfort" for better handing and load control.
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Old 07-08-2015, 01:07 PM   #55
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Ok, so I got my LT-E rated tires yesterday. So at 80 PSI my truck now rides like a dog sled (expected this). So what PSI does everyone run when not towing? This is my daily driver as well as once a month tow vehicle.


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Old 07-08-2015, 01:12 PM   #56
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Experiment a little. Try 65#, then try 60# Keep running it down to where it is comfortable to you. I run 50 to 55# in mine when empty.
I wouldn't go any lower then 50# tho.
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Old 07-08-2015, 01:12 PM   #57
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I run my 10 ply tires on the Hummer H3 at 35 psi for daily driving. (Stock was p rated and 32 or 35 psi) My wife thinks the hummer drives better with the 10 ply tires.

On my truck with 10 ply tires I have ran 40 to 45 while it's empty.
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Old 07-08-2015, 01:37 PM   #58
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I run 40 to 45 as well, seems comfortable for the wife and the tread wears evenly unloaded. or ALSO 10 to 15 psi above what your door sticker recommends. same thing most likely.
If you want to be sure you can chalk across your tread all the way and down over the edges 1/2" then drive around for a few min and see how much of the chalk is worn off near the edges of the tread. If the chalk is erased more than 1/4 inch over the edge of the tread then you need a little more pressure, If the middle is erased and you can see chalk on the edges still then you have too much air. you want your tread on a radial tire to sit flat across the road; too much and the edges don't even touch the ground and you will get extremely poor wet traction. Using this method your front and rear tires will most likely be at quite different pressures but its the best way to determine exactly what your setup requires.
GOOD LUCK.. RON
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Old 07-08-2015, 02:32 PM   #59
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Thank you guys! This is along the lines of what I had in my head, but wanted some reassurance that this was a viable option. I have been playing with pressures all day and have settled in at 45 PSI all the way around. Tread appears much flatter and I'm at 13 PSI above the door sticker. Ride is pretty good (actually way better than I expected) and everything appears to handle very well. Oh, and I didn't say above but I am now running stock size 275/65-18 BF Goodrich A/T KO2's. Very happy so far puttering around town. Looking forward to seeing how the do hooked to the camper in a couple weeks.


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Old 07-14-2015, 03:25 PM   #60
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Originally Posted by GypseeDaddy View Post
Thank you guys! This is along the lines of what I had in my head, but wanted some reassurance that this was a viable option. I have been playing with pressures all day and have settled in at 45 PSI all the way around. Tread appears much flatter and I'm at 13 PSI above the door sticker. Ride is pretty good (actually way better than I expected) and everything appears to handle very well. Oh, and I didn't say above but I am now running stock size 275/65-18 BF Goodrich A/T KO2's. Very happy so far puttering around town. Looking forward to seeing how the do hooked to the camper in a couple weeks.


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I have a 2011 F150 Platinum and I have Hankooks Dyna Pro ATM LT305/55/R20 10ply Light E rated tires and I run them at 50PSI when running around town and 65PSI (Rated Sidewall) when towing. You do get a bit rougher ride and a few rattles popped up, but it makes me feel much better and safer when towing. TT is in my signature, but I had zero problems towing it.

Trailer is about 7600 lbs loaded my truck is rated at 9700 lbs, so we should be well within specs, but I still want to run it by the cat scales when I get a chance. When empty with the Equalizer I was level, when loaded it was slightly nose heavy. I need to learn how to adjust the Equalizer hitch for my weight.
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