trailer hitch on 335ss

scrist · 10-14-2013, 09:34 AM

I have a 2012 335SS. Has anyone had 2" receiver installed on trailer for pulling light trailer?

Boomer · 10-14-2013, 10:15 AM

I have the exact same model. Installed a bolt on 2 inch receiver for a bike rack on the bumper and have had no problems for over 4000 miles, but for a light trailer I would be thinking that a true trailer hitch welded to the frame would need to be the answer since the structure supporting the bumper is very lightly constructed. Some where in this forum is an extensive thread on installing a 2" receiver for bike racks and the various solutions that were done. Note: according to that thread welding on the frame invalidates the Lippert warranty.

NorskeNY · 10-15-2013, 11:56 PM

I installed a

Kurt 13703 adjustable RV hitch. The hitch is rated for a trailer up to 3500 lbs and a tongue weight of 350 lbs.. It hung too low (had some minor dragging this summer) so I just modified the hitch and the bolting. I cut the top and end of the hitch plate off so it would sit higher and clear the JT's Strong arms. If I did not have the JT's installed only the top of the hitch plates would need to be cut off. Obviously the hitch will no longer meet the original Kurt weight specs.

All bolts and spacers purchased at Lowe's - 2 1/2 inch lag bolts, 1 X 2" steel spacers cut to fit inside of the box steel. The bolts that came with the hitch were too short. I used a saws all with a steel blade to cut the hitch end/mounting plate.

Based upon my initial and present installation I would not use it to tow. I use it for a bike rack that can carry to bikes that is designed for 2" receivers. It still provides for a pretty good attachment of the hitch.

If I were to use it to tow I would have mounted it the way I did on the redesign. Instead of bolting the hitch to one side of the bumper box steel attachment I would drill the holes through both sides of the box steel attachment with spacers inside it.

I am not sure of the strength of the welds on the box steel that is attached to the frame of the trailer. I am sure their design was only meant for the attachment/weight of the rear bumper. Some additional welding would be needed for towing - at least I would have an "expert" check it out.

Box steel welds - outside and similar on the inside. Also across the rear.

Initial and modified hitch installation pictures:

Initial installation:

hitch end:

Modified (does not hang as low now and sits back further to clear the JT's):

hitch end:

Modified bolting:

Initial installation - hitch plate bolted only to the outside of the box steel. The top of the hitch plate was under the box steel

Modified - 2 1/2" carriage bolt goes through the box steel with a spacer inside the box steel ( I was able to use 2 of the lower holes I had used on the initial installation)

outside of box steel:

Inside of box steel bolting - hitch end plate is now on the inside instead of the outside of the box steel (original top cut off the hitch plate and part of the end cut off to raise it and move it back:

The steel spacers inside the box steel provided support as I tightened the bolts (minimized bending of the box steel):

<!--if gte mso 9>
<w:Word>
<w:View>Normal</w:View>
<w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom>
<w:TrackMoves/>
<w:Trackatting/>
<w:PunctuationKerning/>
<w:ValidateAgainstSchemas/>
<w:SaveIfInvalid>false</w:SaveIfInvalid>
<w:IgnoreMixed>false</w:IgnoreMixed>
<w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>false</w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>
<w

onotPromoteQF/>
<w:LidThemeOther>EN-US</w:LidThemeOther>
<w:LidThemeAsian>X-NONE</w:LidThemeAsian>
<w:LidThemeComplex>X-NONE</w:LidThemeComplex>
<w:Compatibility>
<w:BreakWrappedTables/>
<w:SnapToGridInCell/>
<w:WrapTextWithPunct/>
<w:UseAsianBreakRules/>
<w

ontGrowAutofit/>
<w:SplitPgBreakAndark/>
<w:EnableKerning/>
<w

ontFlipMirrorIndents/>
<w:OverrideTableStyleHps/>
</w:Compatibility>
<m:mathPr>
<m:mathFont m:val="Cambria Math"/>
<m:brkBin m:val="before"/>
<m:brkBinSub m:val="&#45;-"/>
<m:smallFrac m:val="off"/>
<m:dispDef/>
<m:lMargin m:val="0"/>
<m:rMargin m:val="0"/>
<m:defJc m:val="centerGroup"/>
<m:wrapIndent m:val="1440"/>
<m:intLim m:val="subSup"/>
<m:naryLim m:val="undOvr"/>
</m:mathPr></w:Word>


Edited by: NorskeNY

WildWildWest · 10-16-2013, 12:23 AM

Off Topic, Bob, but see where your fresh water drain is almost hitting your rear jack support? (last picture). That's what took out my drain in Cheyenne, Wyoming this summer. Raising the jacks at the campground and ended up knocking it right out of the hole in the tank itself - left 25 gallons on the ground. When I got home I put a longer piece of pex on the connection to the tank and angled it towards the rear to avoid coming close to the JT stabilizers or the rear jack mechanisms. Sorry to hijack the threat. I do like your hitch mod!!

socoguy · 10-16-2013, 12:41 AM

Nice job Bob. I definately agree not for towing. The weld areas are for bumper attachment and not meant for towing.

NorskeNY · 10-16-2013, 01:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WildWildWest

Off Topic, Bob, but see where your fresh water drain is almost hitting your rear jack support? (last picture). That's what took out my drain in Cheyenne, Wyoming this summer. Raising the jacks at the campground and ended up knocking it right out of the hole in the tank itself - left 25 gallons on the ground. When I got home I put a longer piece of pex on the connection to the tank and angled it towards the rear to avoid coming close to the JT stabilizers or the rear jack mechanisms. Sorry to hijack the threat. I do like your hitch mod!!

No problem.

I remembered reading your posting - and I was thinking I could have the same problem. The jack legs just clear the drain line - I do have to bend the drain line slightly to remove and install the cap.

Another fall project.

Edited by: NorskeNY

NorskeNY · 10-16-2013, 01:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by socoguy

Nice job Bob. I definately agree not for towing. The weld areas are for bumper attachment and not meant for towing.

I figured that the welds were strong enough for the rear bumper, Kurt hitch, bike rack and bikes. Was thinking of a flat rack for carrying a 160 lb generator but that may be pushing it so I keep hauling the generator in the truck bed. The modification to the hitch made it 12.5 lbs lighter - original hitch weight was 92 lbs.

Edited by: NorskeNY

Boomer · 10-16-2013, 04:37 AM

Great reply Bob. I thought you could shed some light on this.

longhauler · 10-16-2013, 05:53 AM

I put this same hitch on mine. I also had to cut the brackets to make fit. Hitch seems to be very well made, little bit of an over kill for my bike rack and my cargo tray, but if I ever need to tow a trailer behind my 5ver I'm covered.

NorskeNY · 10-16-2013, 06:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by longhauler

I put this same hitch on mine. I also had to cut the brackets to make fit. Hitch seems to be very well made, little bit of an over kill for my bike rack and my cargo tray, but if I ever need to tow a trailer behind my 5ver I'm covered.

What is the brand of you cargo tray?

Hitch is stronger than what I needed too but the only one I could find that would fit between the frame and a "bolt on" style.

Edited by: NorskeNY

longhauler · 10-16-2013, 12:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NorskeNY

Quote:

Originally Posted by longhauler

I put this same hitch on mine. I also had to cut the brackets to make fit. Hitch seems to be very well made, little bit of an over kill for my bike rack and my cargo tray, but if I ever need to tow a trailer behind my 5ver I'm covered.

What is the brand of you cargo tray?

Hitch is stronger than what I needed too but the only one I could find that would fit between the frame and a "bolt on" style.

It is a homemade cargo tray, same here I looked and looked at different hitches and this one looked like the most versatile. I would rather it be an over kill then not strong enough

You may also like: