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Old 04-05-2012, 05:28 AM   #1
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Three questions:

(1)What size jack do you carry for your cruiser?

(2)I think they recommend jacking by the frame. What do you do?

(3)Since the Cruiser sets off the ground so high; if you jack by the frame, how do you get enough height to raise it off the ground?

I carriy a 2 1/2 ton small floor jack. Wondering now if it's enough?
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Old 04-05-2012, 05:48 AM   #2
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I carry one of these trailer aids.
I also have a 20 ton bottle jack. You usually have blocking along (anyways I do) to place under the bottle jack to reach the frame, but you shouldn't need the jack on the road for changing a flat if you have the trailer aid.

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Old 04-05-2012, 01:18 PM   #3
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I have
I even keep it in the box it came in.. I use it every year or two for checking bearings and brakes. I even replace all 4 tires last summer with it.

I just lift the axle between the ubolts on the axle. Few pumps and it is up. I have never lifted by the frame, Way to high and have to lift the, Way to high to get the tire off the ground.

If i was you. Practice once and see what works for you hooked up to the tow vehicle or not hooked up.. The bottle jack or make a ramp similar to Farmer's. Or buy one, Cheap enough either way. The practice will pay off the first time you have a flat if you know what you are doing. I would bet, I could change my tire in about 12 minutes and be on my way. Especially with the 18volt impact from harbor freight.

The scary part is having a flat on the thru-way and the flat being on the driverside.. EEEKK.. That is the night mare side.. You want to either make quick work of it, Flares, Make it to a u'turn Or play it safe and wait for road side. You have flares and such?


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Old 04-05-2012, 02:12 PM   #4
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I thought the axles will crush when lifted by a jack?
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Old 04-05-2012, 02:29 PM   #5
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I can see nothing wrong in lifting the trailer with a jack under the axle if it is placed directly under or very close to the spring u-bolts. Actually lifting the trailer with the jack under the frame would require you to really lift it very high to overcome the verticle sag of the springs. I'm not sure frames could take the stress. Keep in mind you can read lots of posts on frame issues with today's 5th wheels and travel trailers.

I have always lifted any trailer I've owned with the jack placed directly under the springs and never had one issue. Now obviously you could not place the jack several inches from the spring and not expect the axle not to bend.Edited by: Pull Dog
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Old 04-05-2012, 02:42 PM   #6
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Well that was what I had heard also. But I can agree not to place directly under the axle. Maybe lifting under the U-bolts is safe. This is the 2 1/2 Ton jack I keep in the Cruiser. I haven't tried lifting under the U-bolts. After 20 years of owning Campers from Popups to Class C's to Fifth Wheels I've never had a flat yet. I hope I didn't just Jinx myself. So, I guess my 2 1/2 Ton is big enough?

Edited by: Deputydog
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Old 04-05-2012, 03:45 PM   #7
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Floor jacks seem to work OK on concrete, but not so well on asphalt or gravel and you probably will have to put it under the axle u-bolts to get enoughlift.In addition, I don't like crawling part way under the trailer while operating the jack. I use a 12 ton bottle jack and enough blocking (4x4x12", etc) to raise the jack to the frame. Also use a 3x3x1-1/2" piece of oak between the top of the jack and the frame to eliminate metal to metal slipping. Only used it once so far, but it works great and doesn't take up much room in the truck.
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Old 04-05-2012, 03:54 PM   #8
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You are supposed to jack up the RV by the frame while hitched to

your tow vehicle and stabilizers raised. When traveling we drive up on blocks to float the other tire.</span>Lippert Components, Inc. Informational Publication LIP Sheet - 0134 revB</span>RECOMMENDATIONS FOR JACKING THE FRAME TO CHANGE A TIRE</span>1. Carrying a jack rated for the weight of the coach is essential. The jack must be rated</span>between 8 and 12 tons.</span>2. To prevent damage to the coach, carry wood blocks to place between the jack and</span>the main rail (I-beam) of the coach and to go under the jack.</span>3. DO NOT jack the coach on the axle tube or black pipe gas lines that can sometimes</span>be mounted to the bottom of the I-beam.</span>4. Chock the wheels, both front and rear, on the opposite side of the coach.</span>5. If hitched to tow vehicle, stay hitched and set the parking brake.</span>6. DO NOT use the front landing gear or rear stabilizer jacks to pick the coach up to</span>change a tire. This is dangerous and may result in serious bodily injury or death.</span>

The frame is about 24" off of the ground. The RV dry wgt is

about 8,000 lbs. You may need a larger jack.</span>

I did manage to jack up our old RV under the u-bolts with a 2.5

ton floor jack but it would slowly descend.</span>KD

Edited by: Kamper Dave
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Old 04-05-2012, 06:08 PM   #9
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Lippert tells you not to lift the trailer by the axle or any of the suspension. It is in your owners manual and if you damage the axle it will not be covered by the warranty.
Axles are not very expensive but may take a couple weeks to get a replacement.
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Old 04-06-2012, 02:36 AM   #10
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I also carry a 20ton bottle jack. I have lots of wood blocks on board as well. Knock on wood, I haven't needed to jack up my cruiser yet. But I do plan on regreasing my bearings before our first trip this year.
The bottle jack was the first thing I put in the truck... after taking out the stupid scissor jack.

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