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Old 08-26-2014, 01:36 PM   #1
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Potential leak points

I've been chasing a leak in my Zinger for over a year. The water would come in the front, door side bedroom closet during heavy rains. I thought it was the marker light directly in front of the leak so I pulled it off and put new butyl tape and caulk around it.



It still leaked. I put new Dicor lap sealant on the front cap seal. No help. I recaulked the corner molding, still leaked.

Finally I had enough and built a pressure tester using a high velocity ventilator from Harbor Freight.




It basically pumps high volumes of air into the coach.



You then take soapy water or kids bubble solution and spray all around the exterior. Where you see bubbles is a potential leak point.






What I found was the plastic gutter extensions on the end of the drip rails leaked air profusely. The water would overwhelm the gutter and flow back behind the gutter, behind the aluminum skin, finally dripping into the closet.



My thoughts are using an RV cover during the winter pulled the extensions down breaking the original seal.

After seeing this, I tested the other three extensions. No surprise they also leaked a lot of air. From what I've read these gutter extensions are a common place for leaks to originate.

Another place where I had a leak was the top bulb seal on the slide out room. I spotted this when I noticed the staples in the wall board that the slide out seals up when open were starting to rust. The bulb seal looked like it was sealed by the factory with silicone sealant. The silicone had pulled away and was allowing water to enter past the bulb/sweeper seal and into the camper. The wallboard would wick the moisture up and rust the staples. I cut away as much silicone as I could and laid down a fresh bread of Dicor lap sealant to close it up.

After sealing these areas up, Iíve been leak free. I still pressure test the trailer once a year. Along the way I have become proficient with a caulk gun and can recommend the following sealants:

Roof - Dicor self-leveling lap sealant or Eternabond tape. The only thing about the tape is it is 100% permanent. If you place it around a vent or antenna and need to later remove the vent/antenna, youíll have a heck of a time trying to remove the tape. It also requires a clean prepped surface. If there is a spot that wasnít prepped correctly you could have a leak under the tape.

Sides - ProFlex or OSI Quad. I recently started to use OSI Quad after my local dealer ran out of ProFlex. The advantage is you can find OSI at Lowes or Home Depot, it cost about 50% less, and is easier to work with.

Hopefully my experiences can help someone else looking for a leak or potentially stop future leaks.
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Old 08-26-2014, 02:52 PM   #2
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WOW!!
What a process you have been thru! That is quite the pressure system you configured. Good job, and thank you for sharing all of that.
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Old 08-26-2014, 03:09 PM   #3
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Awesome read. Thank You.
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Old 08-27-2014, 04:29 AM   #4
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Crossroads advises against the use of RV covers.
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Old 08-27-2014, 05:38 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markandkim View Post
Crossroads advises against the use of RV covers.
Is that something that is published somewhere? I have to wonder if its because of the gutter problems?
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Old 08-27-2014, 07:17 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markandkim View Post
Crossroads advises against the use of RV covers.
Most manufacturers don't recommend them. Latest trailer life magazine had an article on them and highly recommend them, but keep in mind Good Sam/CW sells them.
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Old 08-27-2014, 09:36 AM   #7
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What an awesome setup. Gotta have that now. Our trailer had a leak around the marker lights up front that they missed at the factory.

Long story short, I had to take it to Crossroads service center they had to replace the entire front cap.

Your truly are displaying the proverbial ounce of prevention here
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Old 08-27-2014, 09:45 AM   #8
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I am paranoid of leaks. I've seen too many campers where leaks go unnoticed and turn into big problems. These things are not built to go 60+ mph down bumpy roads without something failing, especially sealants slapped on as fast as possible at the factory.

Thanks for all the kudos!
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Old 08-27-2014, 10:26 PM   #9
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Somewhere on the CR website, maybe in the FAQs it says not to use covers as the roof material needs to breathe.

Awesome write-up although I'm sorry for your troubles. Thanks mate!
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Old 08-28-2014, 11:06 AM   #10
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Great pictures and info. Thanks!
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